Replacing cam seals...

Thanks, I added that clamp to my order.

I have wondered the same about dealer pricing. When I was on the phone with the dealership, I asked him if his prices were MSRP. After he said they were, I asked why the online MSRP for the hose is $32 and his "MSRP" is $48??

I finished putting longer bolts into my cam gear/crank shaft tool and I still cannot budge the bolts for the cam gears. I have even tried using my air impact driver; nothing. I think I need to get a friend to hold the gear tool while I use a breaker bar. These bolts are stubborn! But the spec is supposed to only be 81ft/lbs.
 
Man be careful. I don't want to jinx you but, 81 ft lbs usually gives under an air impact tool. You don't want to open up another problem by using too much force.
Have you tried a little heat? Could it be that the bolt is loctite on?
 
HiLife said:
Man be careful. I don't want to jinx you but, 81 ft lbs usually gives under an air impact tool. You don't want to open up another problem by using too much force.
Have you tried a little heat? Could it be that the bolt is loctite on?
Click to expand...

It's possible. I suspect that this bolt has never been removed from the engine before. The last timing belt change was at 118,000 miles, at the dealer (270,000 miles now). I only assume that the cam gears were not taken off at that early age to replace the cam seals.

These bolts must be on there tighter than 81ft/lbs. I got a friend to hold the cam tool while I used a 2 ft breaker bar. Result: we broke apart my cam holder tool. It wasn't the toughest design, but it should have held up to the cam bolts. I used 3 stacked layers of 4x1 board to make it. I also avoided drilling the holes for the tool closer than 5" from the end of the board.
 
HiLife said:
Man be careful. I don't want to jinx you but, 81 ft lbs usually gives under an air impact tool. You don't want to open up another problem by using too much force.
Have you tried a little heat? Could it be that the bolt is loctite on?
Click to expand...

The bolts are kinda "stuck" on without locktite that I can tell. Yes, you need more than 81 ft-lb to break the bolt loose.
 
ShooterMcGavin said:
Ok, I'll consider it. I can't even get a glimpse of the other hose. If I can't see it, I'm afraid that it will be extremely difficult to get it on the fittings and get the clamps. Any tips or advice on that?
Click to expand...

One hose goes from the water pump to the oil cooler. The other hose, goes from the block to the oil cooler. Both carry antifreeze. The best way to replace the block to oil cooler hose is with the driver front wheel off. It was a little bit of a pain. On those hoses, twist and then pull they will come off.
 
stir_fry_boy said:
One hose goes from the water pump to the oil cooler. The other hose, goes from the block to the oil cooler. Both carry antifreeze. The best way to replace the block to oil cooler hose is with the driver front wheel off. It was a little bit of a pain. On those hoses, twist and then pull they will come off.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll use that method.

When I make a new tool for holding the cam gears, and the crank shaft pulley, will a 2x4 be strong enough? Do I need something even stronger?
 
ShooterMcGavin said:
Thanks, I'll use that method.

When I make a new tool for holding the cam gears, and the crank shaft pulley, will a 2x4 be strong enough? Do I need something even stronger?
Click to expand...

Yep, as other people have done before. I used a 2x6 because it was cheap ($1) from Home Depot due to damage at one end that I cut off.

For the cam gears, you can use some big Channel Locks. That's what I do, or put a towel around the gear and use a chain wrench.
 
stir_fry_boy said:
Yep, as other people have done before. I used a 2x6 because it was cheap ($1) from Home Depot due to damage at one end that I cut off.

For the cam gears, you can use some big Channel Locks. That's what I do, or put a towel around the gear and use a chain wrench.
Click to expand...

Yes, a 2x4 should work? :) I think that's what you meant.

Are you suggesting Channel Locks that are big enough to span the diameter of the cam gear? That would be huge, and would seem likely to damage the gears' teeth. I like your towel idea better, but I will need to buy a chain wrench. Also, the bolt is on so tight, I can't be sure that it would even hold the cam gear as I remove the bolt.

Thanks for all the help!
 
ShooterMcGavin said:
Yes, a 2x4 should work? :) I think that's what you meant.

Are you suggesting Channel Locks that are big enough to span the diameter of the cam gear? That would be huge, and would seem likely to damage the gears' teeth. I like your towel idea better, but I will need to buy a chain wrench. Also, the bolt is on so tight, I can't be sure that it would even hold the cam gear as I remove the bolt.

Thanks for all the help!
Click to expand...

Correct, a 2x4 will work.

There are Channel Locks big enough, that's what my buddy uses all the time and he's a Toyota Master Tech. Could use the old timing belt as well with the Channel Locks. What I did was before I took the old belt off, I held the crank pulley in place with my 2x6, then cracked the cam bolts loose, then removed the belt and the cam bolts/pulleys. I really cranked on them to crack the cam bolts loose.
 
stir_fry_boy said:
Correct, a 2x4 will work.

There are Channel Locks big enough, that's what my buddy uses all the time and he's a Toyota Master Tech. Could use the old timing belt as well with the Channel Locks. What I did was before I took the old belt off, I held the crank pulley in place with my 2x6, then cracked the cam bolts loose, then removed the belt and the cam bolts/pulleys. I really cranked on them to crack the cam bolts loose.
Click to expand...

That sounds like the right method to use. Do you think I should reinstall the timing belt, make my tool, and then use the tool on the crank shaft pulley to hold it all stationary? Or, am I missing something that would make this a bad idea?
 
ShooterMcGavin said:
That sounds like the right method to use. Do you think I should reinstall the timing belt, make my tool, and then use the tool on the crank shaft pulley to hold it all stationary? Or, am I missing something that would make this a bad idea?
Click to expand...

You could install the old belt, but it needs to be tensioned. I think that if you use your crank pulley holding tool, wrap the bolts in a rag, hold the cam pulley still you can get them off. I would have used an impact if I had a compressor when I did mine.

Putting the timing belt on is a PITA because there is high tolerance and almost no slack in the belt. When putting on the new TB, I always just loosen the top idler pulley almost the whole way, start with the cams, then align the crank.
 
Ok... that didn't work. I made a tool out of 2x6 pressure treated with 3/8x3" bolts. I used a pneumatic impact at 120 psi and the bolts won't budge. I then used a breaker bar and the bolts just bent sideways.

I should either make a tool with some 1/2" bolts or use the towel and chain wrench method. I'll think about it.

In the mean time, I took the driver's wheel off and got access to the oil cooler hoses/fittings. I kinda don't think I needed to remove the smaller one; it wasn't in bad shape and it was a PITA to remove it. I think installing the clamps on the new one will be a huge pain! I'm getting tired with this job, mostly trying to get the cam gears off; still waiting for the hoses to arrive from Camelback.
 
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ShooterMcGavin said:
Ok... that didn't work. I made a tool out of 2x6 pressure treated with 3/8x3" bolts. I used a pneumatic impact at 120 psi and the bolts won't budge. I then used a breaker bar and the bolts just bent sideways.

I should either make a tool with some 1/2" bolts or use the towel and chain wrench method. I'll think about it.

In the mean time, I took the driver's wheel off and got access to the oil cooler hoses/fittings. I kinda don't think I needed to remove the smaller one; it wasn't in bad shape and it was a PITA to remove it. I think installing the clamps on the new one will be a huge pain! I'm getting tired with this job, mostly trying to get the cam gears off; still waiting for the hoses to arrive from Camelback.
Click to expand...

Use a chain wrench then. Can use an old belt/timing belt to protect the cam. The small oil cooler hose is a PITA to change but at $20 a gallon for coolant it was worth it to me. It's up to you. Clamps aren't hard, I usually use Vise Grips to hold them open, then maneuver the clamp over the fitting.
 
stir_fry_boy said:
Use a chain wrench then. Can use an old belt/timing belt to protect the cam. The small oil cooler hose is a PITA to change but at $20 a gallon for coolant it was worth it to me. It's up to you. Clamps aren't hard, I usually use Vise Grips to hold them open, then maneuver the clamp over the fitting.
Click to expand...

That's a good piece of advice :) Maybe I should pick up a small needle-nose pair of Vise Grips.
 
stir_fry_boy said:
I have the Craftsman set of 3, worth every penny. One of my most used tools.
Click to expand...

I have a couple of the standard, full-size versions, and I just placed an order for the needle-nose ones for this specific job.

One Vise Grip pliers that I own which comes in handy rarely but does an excellent job with rounded or rusted bolt heads is the "locking wrench". It is actually a really good design and I have never seen anyone else with a set.
Vise Grip Locking Wrench
 
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