Replacing drive belts... AC belt is being a pain!

[DK327]

Hey all, so I decided to replace my alternator belt since it was way loose to begin with and upon inspection I saw multiple cracks... Anyway, I got that belt loose with no issues, as well as the 1st belt... The middle belt for the AC is being a pain! I was able to get the lock nut loose without any issues but the adjuster bolt is almost all the way out and the pulley never moved up and belt still has tension. What do I do?

 

[JayRolla]

Did you loosen these bolts.

 

[mtbtim]

If you have the center lock nut pulley bolt loose and the adjustment bolt isn't doing anything to release tension, the idler pulley must be hanging up a bit probably due to rust. I'd tap it with a plastic hammer upwards to get it to release.

 

[DK327]

I let it soak overnight with deep creep lube and tried for over an hour to move the thing to no avail. I ended up pulling out the locking nut and took out the idler pulley to release tension on the belt and managed to put the new belt on there after some finagling... It's like fused on there and will not budge, which means I won't be able to adjust the tension up or down unless I replace the part, which brings me to another problem I ran into.

So I have all new belts on the pulleys, but when I tried to screw back in the adjuster bolt for alternator belt tension it started binding and is now bent and will not turn. I took the part out and tried to turn the bolt to no avail, will definitely need a new adjusting screw and whatever the other part is... Awesome! :redbrick:

Anyone happen to know what the OEM part numbers are for these? I guess it would be the lock nut and adjusting bolt?

Update: I found the following diagram on Camelback Parts, I'm guessing #5?

 

[Tatonka]

Any chance of backing it out and looking for a compatible bolt at Fastenal?


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[diverscale]

Mine broke with the impact gun, I just bought a long bolt with same thread at home depot, and used a thread die that comes with tap sets to make the threads all the way up to the bolt (bolts at home depot are not threaded all the way.)

Cost me 1$ for the bolt. You can get tap sets for pretty cheap at your hardware store, and those will be good for life, and will save your ass many times.

 

[DK327]

Tatonka: there is no way it's backing out, when I try to turn it each way it just starts to bend so the bolt lost it's integrity pretty much and took the slider with it...

Diverscale: I think that's a pretty good idea although I read somewhere that bolts for auto applications are somewhat stronger than what they sell at hardware store?

Thanks for the recommendations! I'm still searching, so far found a bolt for 2.7L 4Runner but somehow it's not listed for the 3.4L

 

[TheDurk]

You're looking in the wrong pew. AC adjustment is not under cooling. It's under Electrical- Heating & Air Conditioning - Compressor.

Long Bolt: 90099-04306-83
Nut for the pulley: 90099-04306
Drive Belt Idler Pulley; 88440-35060

The bad news is I don't see a separate p/n for the short bolt. It comes with the idler pulley and that's like $60.

Did you try putting that mess in a vise and heating it to red hot, and then put some Vise-Grips on it? I bet you could get it loose, and then retap. Then replace the long bolt.

Otherwise, hit the junkyard.

 

[DK327]

You're looking in the wrong pew. AC adjustment is not under cooling. It's under Electrical- Heating & Air Conditioning - Compressor.

Hey, sorry for the confusion, the bolt is for alternator pulley adjustment, although the original thread is for the AC pulley belt which I was able to take care of... Junkyard sounds good, but I'm reluctant to get a used/rusty bolt. Would you happen to have the part number for the bolt I need? Thanks again for providing part numbers, it's a pain! Shouldn't all adjustment bolts be similar or even the same? In theory what you suggested should still work work...

 

[TheDurk]

Hey, sorry for the confusion, the bolt is for alternator pulley adjustment, although the original thread is for the AC pulley belt which I was able to take care of... Junkyard sounds good, but I'm reluctant to get a used/rusty bolt. Would you happen to have the part number for the bolt I need? Thanks again for providing part numbers, it's a pain! Shouldn't all adjustment bolts be similar or even the same? In theory what you suggested should still work work...

You're in luck then. For the V6:

ADJUST BAR BOLT - TOYOTA 90119-08493
SLIDER, FAN BELT ADJUSTING 16385-62020
IMPACT BAR NUT - TOYOTA 90179-08183

It's really not that hard. You just need a decent parts site that will work from your VIN and seventeen years of practice buying parts for this thing. Here's one:

http://japan-parts.eu/toyota/us/1999/4runner/vzn185l-gkmgka/3_671460_007_/tool-engine-fuel/1603_radiator-water-outlet#16385

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

You're in luck then. For the V6:

ADJUST BAR BOLT - TOYOTA 90119-08493
SLIDER, FAN BELT ADJUSTING 16385-62020
IMPACT BAR NUT - TOYOTA 90179-08183

It's really not that hard. You just need a decent parts site that will work from your VIN and seventeen years of practice buying parts for this thing. Here's one:

TOYOTA 4RUNNER VZN185L-GKMGKA - TOOL-ENGINE-FUEL - RADIATOR WATER OUTLET | Japan Parts EU

That is a GREAT site for part exploration. Best I've seen yet. Thanks for posting that.

 

[Drcoffee]

Take the old bolt to ace hardware or true value and get a new bolt. Using wd40 and a drill with a socket adapter and 10mm socket, I run the new bolt in and out or the adjusting block until the threads are clean. Then reassemble it.

To get the old bolt out of the adjustor block, HEAT! Put the block in a bench vise and Use a plumbers torch to heat the block which will loosen the rust and expand the hole. Once it starts smoking and turning red, start working the bolt out. It will come out. But not without heat.

 

[DK327]

Take the old bolt to ace hardware or true value and get a new bolt. Using wd40 and a drill with a socket adapter and 10mm socket, I run the new bolt in and out or the adjusting block until the threads are clean. Then reassemble it.

To get the old bolt out of the adjustor block, HEAT! Put the block in a bench vise and Use a plumbers torch to heat the block which will loosen the rust and expand the hole. Once it starts smoking and turning red, start working the bolt out. It will come out. But not without heat.

Thanks for the suggestion, I stopped by Ace Hardware on my way to work this AM and picked up a blow torch kit and looked for a suitable bolt... I couldn't find what I was looking for, but when I got to work I did some more research and found out I probably need "8mm x 80mm 1.25 Pitch Full Thread Hex Bolt" so I'll go back to Ace with that info and see what they have under metric bolts... I saw 5/16 with correct length but it was not 20 TPI, so I went one size bigger but this time the threads didn't match... I think the metric one stated will work.

As for getting the old bolt out, as suggested, I was able to persuade it with some heat, bench vice and some PBlaster and managed to get it out. The old bolt is out of round and is unusable but I'm a step closer now, just need to find the right bolt and I'll be back in business.

Thanks for all the help everyone, much appreciated!

 

[catrains]

GET A thread chaser and after you hammer the bolt straight clean up the threads and use old bolt. use some anti seize so it will be working as the belt sets .

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I went junking and got a set. The 2nd gen uses the same bolt


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[Drcoffee]

You cant re-use the old bolt. It was stressed and will snap. Its best to buy a new bolt. I typically spray a little paint on the bolt to stop it from rusting too quick.

 

[DK327]

You cant re-use the old bolt. It was stressed and will snap. Its best to buy a new bolt. I typically spray a little paint on the bolt to stop it from rusting too quick.

Roger that, I'll continue my search for a new bolt at Ace Hardware tomorrow. Definitely good idea to get a thread chaser and a tap and die set though, I can see how it can come in handy, dealing with rusty bolts that snap and break.

 

[DK327]

Just a quick update, I found an M8x1.25 50mm bolt (they didn't have it any longer, full threaded) which ended up being just long enough to start tightening the tension on the alternator belt. About half way thru the bolt I had correct tension. Ran the vehicle for about 5 mins and rechecked the tension, all looked within specs.

I'm still not happy with the idler pulley not being able to move up and down; I'll have to try and get in there with the torch somehow and see if I can loosen it up but that's a battle for another day. The tension seems to be enough, for now, to not cause the new belt to chirp under load but as it gets looser I'll have to keep an eye on it.

 

[mtbtim]

Just a quick update, I found an M8x1.25 50mm bolt (they didn't have it any longer, full threaded) which ended up being just long enough to start tightening the tension on the alternator belt. About half way thru the bolt I had correct tension. Ran the vehicle for about 5 mins and rechecked the tension, all looked within specs.

I'm still not happy with the idler pulley not being able to move up and down; I'll have to try and get in there with the torch somehow and see if I can loosen it up but that's a battle for another day. The tension seems to be enough, for now, to not cause the new belt to chirp under load but as it gets looser I'll have to keep an eye on it.

Man Dude, I feel for you and anyone else that lives in areas where they salt the roads. I know for a fact I wouldn't like wrenching on rigs half as much if I had to fight rusted on fasteners every time I wanted to do a repair or mod.

 

[DK327]

Man Dude, I feel you and anyone else that lives in areas where they salt the roads. I know for a fact I wouldn't like wrenching on rigs half as much if I had to fight rusted on fasteners every time I wanted to do a repair or mod.

Yeah Tim, it's not fun, even simple stuff takes much longer than it should and fights you the entire time, definitely takes the enjoyment out of wrenching...