Replacing Front Half Shaft

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uluafishing

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Replacing CV Boots '97 Runner

Aloha!

After driving a couple of weeks with the new lift (I've got a '97 Runner), I took a look under the 4Runner expecting the normal splattering of grease from the cv boot only to find a whole crap load of grease.

Apparently the inner cv boot on the driver's side cracked and spewed grease.

I debated changing the boot, but decided to replace the half shaft.

Question is...do I need to separate the spindle from either upper or lower control arm to give me enough room to replace the shaft? I also see there's a clip/ring on the inner splined-shaft where it looks like it'll take some "persuasion" to remove and reinsert into the diff.

Any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
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Finally got around to changing out the half shaft today...too easy.

- Removed the front wheel.
- Removed the front hub dust cover (pry it off)
- Removed cotter pin and lock nut
- Removed axle nut (34 mm socket)
- Separated the LCA from the spindle by removing the 4 bolts connecting them together.
- Pry the axle from the diff with a prybar. (took some persuading)
- Swung the spindle out far enough to remove the axle

- Popped the new axle into the diff center section
- Reverse the above steps to reattach everything.

Whole process took 45 min tops (including 15 minutes of standing around debating if I should just replace the CV boot, as the joint was still in excellent condition -- luckily it didn't rain and I haven't taken the runner off road since the boot gave out).

I'll replace the boot at my leisure and use the axle as a spare.
 
Yeah...FYI, I bought a new EMPI axle (that's the brand name) from Carquest.

It's built differently from the OEM Toyota axle and apparently cannot handle the increased angle from a coil spacer lift. The new axle binds (on the inner joint) whenever the suspension is extended (such as right after going over a bump).

The stock axles don't bind (even when I've got the truck on jack stands) when the suspension is at full droop. The boots are 11 years old, so I'll just replace all of them.

Oh well...I removed the new axle, separated the old inner shaft and stuck it back in to the diff until I can pick up a new CV boot from Toyota (dang parts dept isn't open on Sunday).

Good news is that I'm getting good at changing out the axles...this time it only took me 25 mins.

Aloha!
 
I recently did a CV boot clamp fix on my '04 (writeup is somewhere here.) I was able to get the job done without taking out the axle to do the fix but I would still like to clean this up better in the future. What stopped me initially was 2 points. Draining the front diff and unbolting the tie rod, as stated in the FSM. I'm attaching the FSM pages (to 2 posts to split the pdf file size to fit.) Did you have to do either of those items? Is the '04 that much different than '97? If so, then I'll time the R&R with the next diff fluid change.
 

Attachments

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I read through the documentation you posted.

Looks like the '97 is a little different.

The lower ball joint assembly is attached to the spindle (with 4 bolts), and the tie rod end.

Looks like the newer Runners have two bolts instead of four, and isn't attached to the tie rod.

Ordered two new CV boots from the dealer today...can't believe they don't stock them...they're being shipped in...5 business days.
 
Thanks for the info. Do you lose any diff fluid?
Can you take pics of this work? Particularly the clamping method on the replacement clamps.
 
Lost some diff fluid when I removed the axles from the diff, not much (maybe a 1/4 cup)...

It's time to change the fluid anyway.

I'll take some pics as I replace the boots.

Aloha!
 
Changed out the boots today.

Sorry, no pics...it was a messy job, and I was working by myself.

The good news is the kit from the dealer contained all the necessary parts.

- Boot
- Grease
- New Boot Clamps -- really easy to install, no special tools req.
- New snap ring for the joint "bearings"
- New c-ring for the inner axle (where it snaps into the diff)

Changing out both sides took approx 1.5 hours (alot of grease to clean...)

Email me if you want some help.

Aloha!
 
uluafishing said:
Finally got around to changing out the half shaft today...too easy.

- Removed the front wheel.
- Removed the front hub dust cover (pry it off)
- Removed cotter pin and lock nut
- Removed axle nut (34 mm socket)
- Separated the LCA from the spindle by removing the 4 bolts connecting them together.
- Pry the axle from the diff with a prybar. (took some persuading)
- Swung the spindle out far enough to remove the axle
- Popped the new axle into the diff center section
- Reverse the above steps to reattach everything.
Click to expand...

doesn't the axle nut require a 35mm socket?
 
My OEM nut was a 35mm, I used a standard size socket 1 3/8 to remove the nut. It worked just fine. I did reuse the OEM nut as the aftermarket nut did not allow me to reuse the OEM star washer thing that holds the cotter key in place.
 
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