Replacing oil filter housing

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oil filter upgrade

have new trd offroad and the first thing im doing is upgrading the housing to metal toyota housing
 
I would just remove the skid plate, pull the filter housing off completely with the filter tool and have an empty drain pan underneath to catch what comes out, pour everything out of the filter into the drain pan too. Then swap the center stem part and filter over to your new metal housing, swap o rings (since you just put them in it should be fine), and tighten up. Measure what came out by pouring into an old oil quart jug, and add that amount back in. It may waste a quart or less, but not 6.6 quarts of brand new oil.

I forgot to swap out the center stem when i upgraded. Im doing that this week when i change my oil, do i have anything to worry about, damage wise because I didnt swap them out.
 
Get yourself a remote oil filter housing. I love mine! Oil changes are a breeze! I don't have to take off any skid plates, super simple oil changes:

20180713_112334_zpsngawzzm7.jpg

Nice set up; do you have a link to the manufacturer of that kit?

PS I see a supercharger :rockon:Wondering if it requires a different viscosity of oil for the engine.
 
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Dumbest design ever. I wish this thing had a spin on filter so badly. An oil change on other vehicles I have take 15 mins but this thing...

It's not so much the time it's just unnecessary

It is a dumb design, no doubt about it. What makes it worse is it's way too easy to overtighten the center drain plug, which makes it impossible to remove without using a separate tool to prevent the canister from spinning. If you can't remove that plug, oil will go everywhere when you remove the canister when it's full of oil.

There's really nothing wrong with a cartridge filter design, as long as the canister is easily accessible at the top of the engine bay, and isn't oriented upside-down. If VW and Subaru can figure out how to put the oil filter on top, why can't Honda and Toyota?
 
It is a dumb design, no doubt about it. What makes it worse is it's way too easy to overtighten the center drain plug, which makes it impossible to remove without using a separate tool to prevent the canister from spinning. If you can't remove that plug, oil will go everywhere when you remove the canister when it's full of oil.

I use an impact driver to break it loose. I also don't put a lot of torque on it.
 
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I like cartridge filters myself. I don't consider the oil change procedure to be that big of a deal, and I like being able to inspect the filter element without having to cut open canister filters.

The plastic housing is no problem either, unless you run into a ham-fisted hack lube tech, who over-torques the housing, and strips the skid-plate fasteners with his trusty impact wrench.

Which is why I do my own oil changes, and those for immediate family.
 
Nice set up; do you have a link to the manufacturer of that kit?

PS I see a supercharger :rockon:Wondering if it requires a different viscosity of oil for the engine.

Here is the link: Baxter Performance Oil Filter Adapters

No, the supercharger does not require a different oil viscosity. In fact, this is directly from the install manual: "Note: It is VERY IMPORTANT to use the factory specified oil viscosity."
 
What keeps the Baxter spin-on adapter from coming loose when you remove the spin-on oil filter?

The adapter is tightened to a higher spec than the spin-on filter. So unless the oil filter is grossly over-tightened, the adapter won't move.
 
I like cartridge filters myself. I don't consider the oil change procedure to be that big of a deal, and I like being able to inspect the filter element without having to cut open canister filters.

The plastic housing is no problem either, unless you run into a ham-fisted hack lube tech, who over-torques the housing, and strips the skid-plate fasteners with his trusty impact wrench.

Which is why I do my own oil changes, and those for immediate family.

Nailed it ! I agree with everything you said.
 
Don’t forget about the guy that drops your plastic filter cover and puts a hairline crack in it only to fail while driving down the road.....
that’s why my first oil change on this T4R will go to aluminum!

YMMV
 
Don’t forget about the guy that drops your plastic filter cover and puts a hairline crack in it only to fail while driving down the road.....

that’s why my first oil change on this T4R will go to aluminum!



YMMV
With my (new to me) 2016 w/100K miles I replaced the plastic with the aluminum version. Glad I did because when I went to take it off it was WAY over torque and wouldn't have trusted it. Good call to make the switch either way. :)

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
With my (new to me) 2016 w/100K miles I replaced the plastic with the aluminum version. Glad I did because when I went to take it off it was WAY over torque and wouldn't have trusted it. Good call to make the switch either way. :)

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Same here, I had a HELL of a time getting that damn thing to break loose, it was WAY over torqued after my "Toyota Care" aka Toyota doesn't care oil change. No Toyota tech will ever touch my oil filter again God willing, and I just did the metal housing swap so now I'm more comfortable taking it off in the future
 
I knew when My wife bought her ‘14 4R new back then that the plastic housing would break.
I bought a dealer replacement and packed it away in a closet.
No doubt some Sunday the thing will crack during removal/installation.
I’m ready.
 
Add me as another one switching to the metal Avalon housing.

I always laugh at the people on here that are like "drr, plastic bad, metal good, why Toyota use plastic? I'm smarter than a Toyota engineer." But I guess the dealer techs abused my housing over the years. I'm out of warranty now so did my oil change this weekend. It took a damn breaker bar to get the housing off which is excessive for something that should only be tightened to 18 lb ft, and it looked like two of the tabs got a little bent when I took it off.

So I put it back on and torque it to spec and those two tabs snapped off and its now leaking where one snapped off. Awesome. Ordered the metal Avalon housing. Sounds like I'll just lose the oil that was in the canister and not the entire system, so that's good. Can anyone confirm that the stock filter drain plug fits on the Avalon metal filter canister?
 
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Add me as another one switching to the metal Avalon housing.

I always laugh at the people on here that are like "drr, plastic bad, metal good, why Toyota use plastic? I'm smarter than a Toyota engineer." But I guess the dealer techs abused my housing over the years. I'm out of warranty now so did my oil change this weekend. It took a damn breaker bar to get the housing off which is excessive for something that be should only be tightened to 18 lb ft, and it looked like two of the tabs got a little bent when I took it off.

So I put it back on and torque it to spec and those two tabs snapped off and its now leaking where one snapped off. Awesome. Ordered the metal Avalon housing. Sounds like I'll just lose the oil that was in the canister and not the entire system, so that's good. Can anyone confirm that the stock filter drain plug fits on the Avalon metal filter canister?

Yes, if you ordered Toyota part number 15620-31060. Swap the drain plug (with gasket) and the inner mesh tube.
 
Yes, if you ordered Toyota part number 15620-31060. Swap the drain plug (with gasket) and the inner mesh tube.

Thanks! Can confirm personally as well now. Got the metal canister today from a local dealer and it's a perfect fit and the drain plug from the 4Runner's plastic canister screws right in. The center pickup tube is easy to swap out. I lost just under 1/2 quart of oil in the swap, so topped it off and should be good to go now.
 

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