esb_t4r
Member
Replaced the Re-circ today
Hi all FWIW I replaced the recirc actuator today in my 05 V8 4R and wanted to just add some notes that helped me get through the job today. I apologize that I didn't take any pics during the job.
1. I did not disconnect the connectors for the PCM/ECM (not sure which it is). I only unbolted the three bolts and moved it to the side.
2. I did disconnect the two connectors that go into the white plastic frame between the PCM/ECM & the blower housing (I forgot to unplug the battery before doing this but did it before reconnecting the plugs...everything seems ok). This allowed me to pull the white frame up to the left and out of the way and created enough access to get to the two actuator screws. I used a bungee to pull it out of the way to the left. I also popped out the black plastic strap that was holding the main bundle of cables to the blower housing (was below where the plastic frame was before I moved that). This made it a little easier to move the PCM.
3. I used a 1/4" socket with a taped in Phillips head bit to get the front visible screw out.
4. The rear screw is the ***** as most people know... I did buy an angled Phillips head screwdriver to use for this but found the it very awkward to use with the opposite side flat head driver sticking into my hand and making it very hard to "find" the screw head. I found it eventually and turned the screw enough to then use a 1/4" socket with 3/8" adapter (for easier finger grip) with a Phillips bit taped in to get the screw out the remainder of the way.
5. Once the old actuator was out I swapped the white piece and plugged the new actuator in (and the two other cables from the white plastic frame, which I think are for the speakers and airbag possibly) to check it indeed worked before installing it (it did).
6. Re-installing went smoother because I picked up some socket head sheet metal screws as suggested by another member of the forum in their post about replacing the other actuators. I got #8 x 1/2" screws but I would recommend getting 5/8" screws because that is the length of the OEM Phillips head screws. I sprayed a little lithium grease in the track of the white piece on the actuator, and then installed the FRONT screw first to get the actuator in position before attempting the rear screw. For the rear I jammed some electrical tape into the 1/4" socket to hold the screw in, and used the socket combined with and adapter to get the screw started. I then swapped the 3/8" adapter for a screwdriver bit adapter (a square socket + 1/4" Allen adapter) and used a small 1/4"wrench to turn the socket and screw. This enabled me to put a finger on the back of the bit and made it very easy to get the rear screw in.
Overall the job took me about 2.5hrs. Glad I can get fresh air back in thru the vents now (was stuck on re-circ)! Hope these notes help someone. Thanks!
Hi all FWIW I replaced the recirc actuator today in my 05 V8 4R and wanted to just add some notes that helped me get through the job today. I apologize that I didn't take any pics during the job.
1. I did not disconnect the connectors for the PCM/ECM (not sure which it is). I only unbolted the three bolts and moved it to the side.
2. I did disconnect the two connectors that go into the white plastic frame between the PCM/ECM & the blower housing (I forgot to unplug the battery before doing this but did it before reconnecting the plugs...everything seems ok). This allowed me to pull the white frame up to the left and out of the way and created enough access to get to the two actuator screws. I used a bungee to pull it out of the way to the left. I also popped out the black plastic strap that was holding the main bundle of cables to the blower housing (was below where the plastic frame was before I moved that). This made it a little easier to move the PCM.
3. I used a 1/4" socket with a taped in Phillips head bit to get the front visible screw out.
4. The rear screw is the ***** as most people know... I did buy an angled Phillips head screwdriver to use for this but found the it very awkward to use with the opposite side flat head driver sticking into my hand and making it very hard to "find" the screw head. I found it eventually and turned the screw enough to then use a 1/4" socket with 3/8" adapter (for easier finger grip) with a Phillips bit taped in to get the screw out the remainder of the way.
5. Once the old actuator was out I swapped the white piece and plugged the new actuator in (and the two other cables from the white plastic frame, which I think are for the speakers and airbag possibly) to check it indeed worked before installing it (it did).
6. Re-installing went smoother because I picked up some socket head sheet metal screws as suggested by another member of the forum in their post about replacing the other actuators. I got #8 x 1/2" screws but I would recommend getting 5/8" screws because that is the length of the OEM Phillips head screws. I sprayed a little lithium grease in the track of the white piece on the actuator, and then installed the FRONT screw first to get the actuator in position before attempting the rear screw. For the rear I jammed some electrical tape into the 1/4" socket to hold the screw in, and used the socket combined with and adapter to get the screw started. I then swapped the 3/8" adapter for a screwdriver bit adapter (a square socket + 1/4" Allen adapter) and used a small 1/4"wrench to turn the socket and screw. This enabled me to put a finger on the back of the bit and made it very easy to get the rear screw in.
Overall the job took me about 2.5hrs. Glad I can get fresh air back in thru the vents now (was stuck on re-circ)! Hope these notes help someone. Thanks!
