Replacing Stock Speakers

[97Run-Man]

I literally just went through this last week so here are my comments while this is still fresh in my mind.

The stock speakers in my 2002 were shot so everything got a mild budget minded upgrade.

I've always been a fan of the soundstage Component speakers add and went with Crutchfield's house brand "Sound Ordinance" 6.5" component speakers for the front. You can easily mount the tweeters on the factory tweeter brackets with some hot glue or 3M trim tape. The crossovers can be 3M taped to the backside of the door panel so they protrude into the relief cut for the window.

As others said rear speakers are optional but any OEM paper cone speaker in our trucks will likely be worn. You may also want to go with a small amp to get the most from your speakers. I went with a Clarion mini 4 channel amp and am extremely happy with it so far.

These speakers won't wow any true audiophiles but they're truly impressive for the price. They avoid the shrill tweeter heavy sound many low cost component speakers have and with amplified power have good mid bass.

Headunit:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DDX374B/Kenwood-DDX374BT.html?avf=Y

Front Speakers:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777P65CB/Sound-Ordnance-P-65CB.html?tp=105&avf=Y

Rear Speakers:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777P65B/Sound-Ordnance-P-65B.html?tp=105&avf=Y

Amplifier:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_020XC1410/Clarion-XC1410.html?tp=72998

Got a question for you about the wiring. Is the amp directly tied into the factory wiring? Meaning you don't have to run RCA's and new speaker wires?


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[kolelt]

Do you have a link for the sub, kickers and amp that you have?

This is the AMP. Again it's a 5 channel amp. So it powers the door speakers and the sub. Obviously it's not a competition or beast. But this little AMP packs a punch. I love it. My music is clean and has good base to it. I got the amp of eBay , used for $120. I bought the Subwoofer from local fleamarket for $15. It's a JL old school 10" sub. JL is a good brand. And the door speakers. Are kickers from Best Buy.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113X8...a&awnw=g&awcr=90679207945&awdv=m&awug=9003992

Here is the 9 wire I used. Again, this eliminates the need to run each separate wire to the door speakers when powering them through the amp. Obviously it would be better to run each separate thicker wire. But believe me. This is enough for you and me and probably average joe. The wire colors even correspond. And you simply tap connect one end to the OEM speaker wires under the dash. And the other to the amp. And 1 wire is left to send power to the AMP when the ignition is on. Also don't forget you need a total of 6 RCA. So 3 sets of RCA cable. And you need to make sure the headunit has 6 rca outputs. Some come with 4 only.
25 FT 18 AWG Gauge 9 Conductor Speed Wire Speaker Trailer Copper Stranded Cable | eBay


And I used these adaptors. I think he sells different sizes to.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/PVC-Car-Speak...%3A5e6be14d15b0a5e2b51dabc3ffffc60b%7Ciid%3A1

Think there are plenty of photos on my build thread. So feel free to scrol through it.

 

[hdowda12]

This is the AMP. Again it's a 5 channel amp. So it powers the door speakers and the sub. Obviously it's not a competition or beast. But this little AMP packs a punch. I love it. My music is clean and has good base to it. I got the amp of eBay , used for $120. I bought the Subwoofer from local fleamarket for $15. It's a JL old school 10" sub. JL is a good brand. And the door speakers. Are kickers from Best Buy.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113X8...a&awnw=g&awcr=90679207945&awdv=m&awug=9003992

Here is the 9 wire I used. Again, this eliminates the need to run each separate wire to the door speakers when powering them through the amp. Obviously it would be better to run each separate thicker wire. But believe me. This is enough for you and me and probably average joe. The wire colors even correspond. And you simply tap connect one end to the OEM speaker wires under the dash. And the other to the amp. And 1 wire is left to send power to the AMP when the ignition is on. Also don't forget you need a total of 6 RCA. So 3 sets of RCA cable. And you need to make sure the headunit has 6 rca outputs. Some come with 4 only.
25 FT 18 AWG Gauge 9 Conductor Speed Wire Speaker Trailer Copper Stranded Cable | eBay


And I used these adaptors. I think he sells different sizes to.
PVC Car Speaker Adapter 5 1/4" 5.25" Toyota 4 Runner Rear Locations SAK039 | eBay

Think there are plenty of photos on my build thread. So feel free to scrol through it.

May be a dumb question, but if I get new door speakers should I definitely get a new amplifier? Especially if I am going to get really nice speakers looking for good audio...

 

[kolelt]

May be a dumb question, but if I get new door speakers should I definitely get a new amplifier? Especially if I am going to get really nice speakers looking for good audio...

If you want to really enjoy your speakers. Yes, a amp is needed. It makes the speaker sound nice when fully turned up. And much cleaner. Again, my goal was to enjoy music at full blast without distortion. And I achieved it.

 

[JewFro]

Got a question for you about the wiring. Is the amp directly tied into the factory wiring? Meaning you don't have to run RCA's and new speaker wires?


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You're correct, the amp can use RCA or speaker line level inputs. Your choice.

I chose the line level option and fed the stock speaker wires. You can see the Kenwood headunit harness feeding the amp inputs on the top right. The bottom right shows the amp outputs tied to the Metra OEM adapter harness which also plugs into the amp output connector on the left hand side.

 

[fblainen11]

I think the rear doors are 4". But they can be replaced with 5 1/4" with no issues.

I put a Pioneer 5 channel amp under my passenger seat with Infinity Kappa speakers in the front. For tears I'm going with Infinity reference or primus for the rears.
Eventually when I have time I'll add a sub. But I'm not too worried about it now. That's why I bought a 5 channel amp. Maximize my space.

 

[Acorn22]

Quick question regarding the rear door speakers... I have some speakers ready to put in but they have 4 mount holes around them the shape of a square and the speaker housing in the door only has 3 mounting holes going around enclosure in the shape of a triangle. What did everyone do to mount these cleanly?

Thanks

 

[notauser]

Quick question regarding the rear door speakers... I have some speakers ready to put in but they have 4 mount holes around them the shape of a square and the speaker housing in the door only has 3 mounting holes going around enclosure in the shape of a triangle. What did everyone do to mount these cleanly?

Thanks

I just recently did an upgrade on the sound of the my 2002 too and found the same problem. I ordered this from ebay

PVC Car Speaker Adapter 5 1/4" 5.25" Toyota 4 Runner Rear Locations SAK039 | eBay

They helped me clear the window too since the speakers i got 5.25 were a little too deep and wide (magnet) to use the original adapter.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-4ddFaleSph6/p_109GTO529/JBL-GTO529.html

This is my setup after upgrade

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X380BHS/Pioneer-AVH-X3800BHS.html

Front speakers

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTO629/JBL-GTO629.html

Rear speakers

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-4ddFaleSph6/p_109GTO529/JBL-GTO529.html

Dont forget to get the adapters for speakers and also for your receiver

Speakers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GEIP7RW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

head unit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQJ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[gamefreakgc]

Quick question regarding the rear door speakers... I have some speakers ready to put in but they have 4 mount holes around them the shape of a square and the speaker housing in the door only has 3 mounting holes going around enclosure in the shape of a triangle. What did everyone do to mount these cleanly?

Thanks

My speakers came with a universal adapter, so if yours did not then I would look into either making your own adapter out of 1/4" MDF board from Home Depot or doing the good 'ol google search.

 

[97Run-Man]

You're correct, the amp can use RCA or speaker line level inputs. Your choice.

I chose the line level option and fed the stock speaker wires. You can see the Kenwood headunit harness feeding the amp inputs on the top right. The bottom right shows the amp outputs tied to the Metra OEM adapter harness which also plugs into the amp output connector on the left hand side.

Did the wiring diagrams give you enough detail to do this? It's been years since I wired a radio and when I last tried a majorly failed. Lol

Also how hard was mounting the amp behind the center dash? I have a cb in the ash tray and a switch panel in the area of the bottom din. Wondering if it could clear


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[gamefreakgc]

Did the wiring diagrams give you enough detail to do this? It's been years since I wired a radio and when I last tried a majorly failed. Lol

Also how hard was mounting the amp behind the center dash? I have a cb in the ash tray and a switch panel in the area of the bottom din. Wondering if it could clear


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Mine was hard, depending on year and options you'll have more or less space down there. My amp + wiring was like 1/2" too wide so I first tried attaching it to the bottom of the head unit. It eventually fell off... so now it's just laying on a mat of foam on the bottom. Thankfully it does not rattle around.

 

[JewFro]

Did the wiring diagrams give you enough detail to do this? It's been years since I wired a radio and when I last tried a majorly failed. Lol

Also how hard was mounting the amp behind the center dash? I have a cb in the ash tray and a switch panel in the area of the bottom din. Wondering if it could clear


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The amp is a tight but good fit, not sure how much space your CB takes up but you should be ok as the amp clears the bottom din and is only about 2.5" thick. Mine is secured with ample amounts of 3M trim tape.

The wiring was simple enough too, even if you've botched it before Everything was color coded. The Kenwood harness matched the Clarion input (purple to purple, green to green, etc.) as did the Clarion output into the Metra to OEM adapter harness.

Just take your time and you'll be good! Be sure to connect the blue amp turn on wire to the Clarion harness (again... color coded).