Replacing tensioner pulley
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TechWrench
Senior Member
How about a little help here? What year, type and engine are we talking about?
TechWrench
Senior Member
You do not need to remove either the alternator, or the A/C compressor to replace the serpentine belt or belt tensioner pulley. There are several write-ups on how to remove the belt already posted, do a search on "belt tensioner" to locate the one you like best. I found it easier, when I did mine last year, to remove the front shield under the engine and remove the tensioner from below, but it can be done from above. Once the belt is removed, there are, I believe, two bolts holding the tensioner assy., to the engine. It shouldn't take more than 1/2 hour to do. While you have the belt off, check the other belt idler pulleys for possible bearing wear. This would be a good time to replace any of them that might need it.
thanks
So, thanks for the reply... Well i found the work around. I replaced the pully on the assembly - however, it seems that there is no way around other than pulling the alternator and the compressor if one wants to pull out the whole assembly -
the tensioner pulley is under the compressor
So, thanks for the reply... Well i found the work around. I replaced the pully on the assembly - however, it seems that there is no way around other than pulling the alternator and the compressor if one wants to pull out the whole assembly -
the tensioner pulley is under the compressor
Does anyone have a photo of exactly how to remove the belt tensioner assembly? Or a photo showing the bolts to be removed?
I need to replace my idler pulley at the top and my tensioner pulley. Can you provide a thread or link? I tried searching but couldn't find much. Or a pic with the bolts highlighted. Thanks
I need to replace my idler pulley at the top and my tensioner pulley. Can you provide a thread or link? I tried searching but couldn't find much. Or a pic with the bolts highlighted. Thanks
I just replaced the whole tensioner assembly. Yep I tried to remove the pulley and did not realize that the bolt was left hand threaded, ugh!
There are 5 bolts to the tensioner assembly. The access is really limited. I took the bolts off of the alternator, and removed the wiring harness bolts connected to the alternator.
I could then pull the alternator out towards the radiator and tie it up towards the battery. Then you remove the 4 compressor bolts and the ac line hanger off of the front of the engine. These 4 bolts are tough to get to. I used my 1/4 drive on these with an cheater bar from my 3/8 drive with a large socket to go over the ratchet handle. I also use a wrench to get to one of the 4 bolts. PIA!!
Once the ac is freed up you can push and pull the compressor to get at the lowe of the tensioner bolts. Took me a good few hours and some skin off of my hands.
Get your replacement out, so you can see where the bolts are. Not much room to see the actual bolts.
Good luck! Sorry no pics.
There are 5 bolts to the tensioner assembly. The access is really limited. I took the bolts off of the alternator, and removed the wiring harness bolts connected to the alternator.
I could then pull the alternator out towards the radiator and tie it up towards the battery. Then you remove the 4 compressor bolts and the ac line hanger off of the front of the engine. These 4 bolts are tough to get to. I used my 1/4 drive on these with an cheater bar from my 3/8 drive with a large socket to go over the ratchet handle. I also use a wrench to get to one of the 4 bolts. PIA!!
Once the ac is freed up you can push and pull the compressor to get at the lowe of the tensioner bolts. Took me a good few hours and some skin off of my hands.
Get your replacement out, so you can see where the bolts are. Not much room to see the actual bolts.
Good luck! Sorry no pics.
So removing the alternator or basically moving out of the way required or needed to get to these bolts? Thanks
4gin007
New member
i removed the alternator completely and took out all four bolts for the ac compressor, but i didnt disconnect the ac lines, you can move it enough to get to the bolts for the tensioner. If your doing the tensioner pulley i suggest replacing the the idler pulleys as well. Be sure to torque the pulleys also.
I tested several ways on the idler pulleys and only one idler pulley seems bad and the other two idler pulleys have no wiggle, bad spin or noise.
What torque should the idler pulleys be?
And I assume the tensioner assembly bolts just needs a good tight hand tightening with the ratchit or do the tensioner assembly bolts need torqued as well?
And last does the idler pulleys loosen to the right and tighten to the left? Or is righty tighty lefty lucy unless it's the pulley on the tensioner assembly?
Would it be easier to un bolt the bad tensioner pulley, remove the new tensioner pulley from the new tensioner assembly and bolt the new tensioner pulley to the hold tensioner assembly without removing the old tensioner assembly? Lol sorry that's a lot but is this what you mean? Like you said it would be lefty tighty and right loosen correct? - As long as I do this could I just do exactly that?
Replacing the tensioner should not be needed. Take the pulley off the tensioner. As mentioned, the bolt is opposite the others, righty loosen, lefty tighten. When looking at the head of the bolt, the top of the bolt should move to the right to loosen. Loosening should not allow the tensioner to pivot. But when tightening you will have to pivot the tensioner to the end of motion with the ratchet and tighten more. The torque specs are in any manual. I tighten with the 1/2" drive, really tight, but no cheater bar.
Also, if there is not a lot of play in the pulley bearings, I use a small screw driver and pop the seal off of the bearing and clean (brake cleaner) and regrease. Get the edge of the screwdriver under the outer edge of the bearing, the inner edge is the dynamically turning edge. The outer does not seal against a rotating part of the bearing. Don't pack the bearing really tight, just get the balls coated. You should be good to go.
Also, if there is not a lot of play in the pulley bearings, I use a small screw driver and pop the seal off of the bearing and clean (brake cleaner) and regrease. Get the edge of the screwdriver under the outer edge of the bearing, the inner edge is the dynamically turning edge. The outer does not seal against a rotating part of the bearing. Don't pack the bearing really tight, just get the balls coated. You should be good to go.
I was able to remove the old pulley from the tensioner assembly and removed the pulley from the new tensioner assembly and bolted it onto the old assembly but no go. I got everything hooked up but without the ac running the vehicle wants to die or idle really low to the point of dying. It appears the spring in the assembly is no good and not providing enough tension so now I have to dig in to removing the old assembly and use the new assembly.
This looks like a headache
This looks like a headache
How difficult was it to move the tensioner?
Were the pulleys the same size?
Was it working before?
Did you have the belt threaded properly?
When I was done it was really difficult to get the belt on. I had to rotate the tensioner really far. I was putting on a new belt, so it should be tight.
Were the pulleys the same size?
Was it working before?
Did you have the belt threaded properly?
When I was done it was really difficult to get the belt on. I had to rotate the tensioner really far. I was putting on a new belt, so it should be tight.
Unable to get the tensioner removed as we speak because I'm unable to remove the alternator which is seriously frustrating me. I removed the two bolts holding the alternator and some harnesses but still unable to free the alternator. The alternator will tilt to the side a little but will not come out.
The tensioner was working previously but the pulley had a little play in it. So I was replacing the pulley but had to buy the tensioner assembly together as one.
I'm pretty sure I threaded the belt correctly.
I'm using the same belt - do you think the belt stretched and needs to be replaced?
If not I'm stuck trying to remove the alternator to access the tensioner assembly.
Help please :help:
Such this is my only transportation and no friends or family near me to help.
Wow. There were 2 wiring harness bolts that freed the alt. I think I pushed it down off the bolt mounts then pivoted it towards the radiator
But if the tensioner and belt worked before it should be ok once u replaced the pulley. Does the tensioner spring seem pretty strong when pivoting. I would double chk the belt threading. Getting the ax compressor of is a pia too.
But if the tensioner and belt worked before it should be ok once u replaced the pulley. Does the tensioner spring seem pretty strong when pivoting. I would double chk the belt threading. Getting the ax compressor of is a pia too.
Yes the tensioner spring seems pretty strong in my opinion.
When you say to check the belt threading, are you meaning to make sure the belt threads line up with the threads on the bigger pulleys, fan and what not? What's the best way to make sure?
Last is it possible the belt got stretched from previous pulleys? Meaning I would need a new belt?
Not much chance that the belt stretched that much.
U most likely got the belt not running around the pullies correctly.
When you were getting the belt on over the tensioner how far did you have to pull the tensioner back to get it over the pulley? It should be rather far. Belts don't stretch that much.
U most likely got the belt not running around the pullies correctly.
When you were getting the belt on over the tensioner how far did you have to pull the tensioner back to get it over the pulley? It should be rather far. Belts don't stretch that much.
