Retrofit question

[Js'00imited4runner]

So I've ordered the h1 2.5" projectors along with the bulbs and ballasts and the wiring harness. My question is how does the "shutter" in the projector lens wire into the h4/9003 hi/lo harness? Or does it? Ot doesn't seem to have the plug in the wiring harness for the shutter. I was able to troubleshoot the shutter along with the bulbs at the same time and it clicked on and off but that was also everything being directly wired to a battery. Do I wire it into the ballast wiring? Or the bulb wiring? I'm at a stand still here. Any input helps thanks!

 

[Roamed YT]

Not knocking your choices, but this is why I always use TRS gear! On 99% of my retros it's taken the guesswork out of things. I've done 6 in the past 5 years with great results.

There should be a connector on your 9003 -> H1 harness that the shutter wire on the solenoid connects to.

From what I see, it looks like all you have is the ballast harness so in theory you can hook everything up, but you'll have no trigger for high beams.

I've used the MotoControl Bi-Xenon harness from TRS on my 3rd gen... for the $35 it's worth it as it gives you a clean high beam input for a trigger.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/motocontrol-bi-xenon-h4-9003.html

 

[Js'00imited4runner]

Not knocking your choices, but this is why I always use TRS gear! On 99% of my retros it's taken the guesswork out of things. I've done 6 in the past 5 years with great results.

There should be a connector on your 9003 -> H1 harness that the shutter wire on the solenoid connects to.

From what I see, it looks like all you have is the ballast harness so in theory you can hook everything up, but you'll have no trigger for high beams.

I've used the MotoControl Bi-Xenon harness from TRS on my 3rd gen... for the $35 it's worth it as it gives you a clean high beam input for a trigger.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/motocontrol-bi-xenon-h4-9003.html

Yeah I hear what your saying but I purchased everything from a budget diy retrofit on here. But of course it never works out as easy as it's claimed. Alright I'll consider another wiring harness. Thanks for the response!

 

[Ed_C]

Do you have DRLs? If it isn't equipped with DRLs you won't need that extra harness...I'll post more details after you verify

 

[DaMonkey]

Can’t see details of your harness. Can you share link to the kit you got?

That moto harness looks nice. I believe in the direct to battery idea and they solved the time gap during switch to high beam. Looks well made. But... am I the only one that’s bothered with giving up redundant circuits? It only uses one h4 for signal. So if you plug into driver side h4 and you lose that one side circuit while driving, both lights go out. Isn’t there a harness that preserves both sides separate for safety?

I was thinking better to make my own relays but the time gap to high beam is not easy to solve.

Or maybe it is:

Do you have DRLs? If it isn't equipped with DRLs you won't need that extra harness...I'll post more details after you verify

I’m interested in your details.

 

[Js'00imited4runner]

Do you have DRLs? If it isn't equipped with DRLs you won't need that extra harness...I'll post more details after you verify

Yeah I do have DRL's and I was under the impression that the shutter is for the h1 bulbs therefore switching to hi and lo beam when switched at the relay. I'm thinking the plug can be spliced into the wiring harness either before or after the ballast so it activates with the relay when I switch between hi and lo beam. I was able to mock it all up in the engine bay and get only one side to illuminate but swapped ballasts to troubleshoot them and they both worked simultaneously. I just wanna test everything before I seperate the lenses.
Thanks for helping me get this figured out!

 

[Ed_C]

... am I the only one that’s bothered with giving up redundant circuits? It only uses one h4 for signal. So if you plug into driver side h4 and you lose that one side circuit while driving, both lights go out. Isn’t there a harness that preserves both sides separate for safety?

Most aftermarket harness connect to just one side for the trigger. Relay coils don't pull much current anyway, it's doubtful you'd blow the headlight fuse in the fusebox unless there's a short between the fusebox and bulb connector. You could trigger the aftermarket harness with both lowbeams if you use diodes (see below). Xenon Depot does offer a harness that's actually two independent harnesses, but you still need something to keep them energized when the high beams are on (see below)

I’m interested in your details.

If it's a non-DRL system the circuit is called a ground-switched configuration: shares a common positive and separate grounds at low and high beam to complete the circuits. This common positive stays "hot" at low and high beam,all you need to do is connect this common positive to the positive (trigger) input of the relay harness then the ground to chassis/battery negative. Then wire the bixenon solenoids to the factory headlight connectors' common positive and highbeam ground. The solenoids don't draw much current,I just powered up a D2S 4.0 solenoid and saw a peak of .80 amperes at 13.8 volts.

Yeah I do have DRL's and I was under the impression that the shutter is for the h1 bulbs therefore switching to hi and lo beam when switched at the relay. I'm thinking the plug can be spliced into the wiring harness either before or after the ballast so it activates with the relay when I switch between hi and lo beam. I was able to mock it all up in the engine bay and get only one side to illuminate but swapped ballasts to troubleshoot them and they both worked simultaneously. I just wanna test everything before I seperate the lenses.
Thanks for helping me get this figured out!

Unfortunately you'll need something like the previously mentioned motocontrol harness, or wire in a diode to keep the relay(s) energized when the highbeams are on. Diodes like these https://www.parts-express.com/1n4007-1a-1000v-general-purpose-rectifier-diode--1n4007 Please post pics of your harness so I can show where to wire the diodes...there also might be an add-on controller that's cheaper and more dependable than the morimoto motocontrol that will work on your existing relay harness,I've had one fail on me within hours of installation (and not due to installer error)

 

[Jungoes]

1. Disconnect the DRL unit.
2. I did a similar conversion without the harness- used a relay that was wired to the High beam connection in the stock 3 pin plug from the old headlight. find the high beam connector and use that to trigger the separate relay. I had the relay from the battery and an inline 5 Amp fuse. when the relay is on it sends power to the solenoid inside the projector.
3. The same relay can be used to trigger the 2 solenoids that move the small metal cut off bar for high beam. I had both of mines connected.
4. If you are using the high beam connection from the stock socket to feed these solenoids, there is a chance you can burn the solenoid inside the projector that controls the cut off.

just a side note, but I have that same style retrofit ( AES mini style) and the soft rubber washer will compress over time and cause the projector to droop and cause headlight alignment issues. No amount of adjusting will correct this. You will need a long bolt and a nut j-welded into position installed from the underside to raise and hold it in position. I noticed this after running them for 6 years. No other issues, but I am cool with my total retrofit that cost under $100 cdn.

 

[Renegade_Medic]

That's why I used this kit and choose H4/9003 for relay option:
Bi-Xenon ACME H1

I have no idea what you paid for this kit, but by the time you factor in the headaches and probably end up buying this harness (Bi-Xenon MotoControl 9003/H4), you'll probably end up spending more on your retrofit.

You can buy that wiring harness and give it a shot. You may have to switch a ground on the plug as I remember. Also, you'll have to order a little box from amazon or ebay to fix the hi-beam indicator because of the rotating ground on these trucks, thanks to weird decisions by Toyota.

 

[Js'00imited4runner]

Alright guys thanks for all the input! And to be honest I have $100 in total including projectors, wiring harness, hid h1 kit, and a replacement set of oem housings. So if I gotta spend another $1-$30 hey for $130 I'll live. Plus I can always sell my housings if I don't screw the others up and recoup some of the money. I'll get a photo of the wiring harness!

 

[Jungoes]

that harness appears to have two wires that can feed the solenoids for the high beam cut off. its the extra 2 wires coming out of the male connector that goes into the stock socket you remove from the normal bulbs,
In your harness picture- upper right hand side- middle black socket with the blades sticking out.

test those extra two wires with a multi meter. if you are getting 12 v when high beam is on those two wires from that socket and zero when high beams off that's the wires to feed the cut off solenoid

cut off the small socket that feeds the solenoid and connect those two wires and your'e good to go.

 

[Js'00imited4runner]

that harness appears to have two wires that can feed the solenoids for the high beam cut off. its the extra 2 wires coming out of the male connector that goes into the stock socket you remove from the normal bulbs,
In your harness picture- upper right hand side- middle black socket with the blades sticking out.

test those extra two wires with a multi meter. if you are getting 12 v when high beam is on those two wires from that socket and zero when high beams off that's the wires to feed the cut off solenoid

cut off the small socket that feeds the solenoid and connect those two wires and your'e good to go.

Right on! Your referring to the black and blue wires coming out of the 3 prong plug correct? Awesome! Then what would be the solution for the passenger side? Now I'm stoked this just may work!

 

[DaMonkey]

Right on! Your referring to the black and blue wires coming out of the 3 prong plug correct? Awesome! Then what would be the solution for the passenger side? Now I'm stoked this just may work!

appears that yes those black/blue wires would feed both sides solenoids.

...This common positive stays "hot" at low and high beam,all you need to do is connect this common positive to the positive (trigger) input of the relay harness then the ground to chassis/battery negative. Then wire the bixenon solenoids to the factory headlight connectors' common positive and highbeam ground...

common positive makes it easy on this!! so what do the guys with DRL do?

...
4. If you are using the high beam connection from the stock socket to feed these solenoids, there is a chance you can burn the solenoid inside the projector that controls the cut off...

why?

 

[Jungoes]

those two wires can be used to drive both cut off solenoids at the same time, that's what I have on mines, I do have an inline fuse added to this wire as I don't want to risk burning out the solenoid inside the projector. High beam circuit has a 10 amp fuse in the fuse box which is what feeds those two extra wires , so I added a 5 amp inline just to be safe and not fry the solenoids.
This is my setup not saying you have to do this as your coils may be different.

 

[Js'00imited4runner]

those two wires can be used to drive both cut off solenoids at the same time, that's what I have on mines, I do have an inline fuse added to this wire as I don't want to risk burning out the solenoid inside the projector. High beam circuit has a 10 amp fuse in the fuse box which is what feeds those two extra wires , so I added a 5 amp inline just to be safe and not fry the solenoids.
This is my setup not saying you have to do this as your coils may be different.

So I'm under the impression I run one to the passenger side and ground the negative wire to the chassis and then run the blue one to the driver side and ground the negative wire to the chassis as well? Or tap into them and run 2 lead wires to the passenger side?

 

[DaMonkey]

So I'm under the impression I run one to the passenger side and ground the negative wire to the chassis and then run the blue one to the driver side and ground the negative wire to the chassis as well? Or tap into them and run 2 lead wires to the passenger side?

No... those two wires go to each of the two wires from solenoids. One of them coming out is ground, one is power. Test them to be certain, but most likely black is ground, and purple is +12. Split the one that is ground and send one to each of the black solenoid wires. Then Split the +12 and send one to each of the red solenoid wires.

 

[Js'00imited4runner]

No... those two wires go to each of the two wires from solenoids. One of them coming out is ground, one is power. Test them to be certain, but most likely black is ground, and purple is +12. Split the one that is ground and send one to each of the black solenoid wires. Then Split the +12 and send one to each of the red solenoid wires.

Alright so with my brights on it was .045 to the black and blue wires, with my brights turned off it was reading 12+ volts. I'm guessing this is the correct way for the current to switch between hi's and lo's? If so thanks for all the input on this guys!

 

[DaMonkey]

Alright so with my brights on it was .045 to the black and blue wires, with my brights turned off it was reading 12+ volts. I'm guessing this is the correct way for the current to switch between hi's and lo's? If so thanks for all the input on this guys!

That sounds different than I would have expected.

The solenoid will drop the shutter (opens up high beam) when it receives power. I'm not sure how you would get that based on what you described. I'm going to hide and watch a bit on this and see if those other guys follow what's going on.

 

[Js'00imited4runner]

That sounds different than I would have expected.

The solenoid will drop the shutter (opens up high beam) when it receives power. I'm not sure how you would get that based on what you described. I'm going to hide and watch a bit on this and see if those other guys follow what's going on.

Maybe the wires are backwards? I don't know I'll troubleshoot it again when I've got some more time to mess with it.

 

[cdubsred]

High Beam indicator HID retrofit SOLVED

I did the HID Retrofit on my 1998 4runner, but couldn't get the high beam (brights) dash light to come on after I was done. Tried a number of things, but finally found an unrelated post on an old Tacoma forum and decided to give it a try. All I needed was an H4 Motorcycle Load Resistor.

Posted a youtube video as well -- hope it helps!

YouTube