Reverse Light Mod – SR5 Factory bumper & Rigid SR-Q

[barryhiram]

First, I take no credit for thinking of this mod. Back in 2012 [MENTION=68685]Ducmonsta[/MENTION] posted an excellent write-up installing SRM2’s in rear factory bumper. Immediately this was added to my “to do” list, so here’s credit where credits due!

Second, many thanks go out to [MENTION=120150]TotalAutomotiveLV[/MENTION] for providing outstanding customer service, fast shipping, and best price! Sent PM Monday, order shipped Tuesday, package arrived Thursday, thanks Chas and Mike!

Ok, now for the meat and potato’s………………..

Objective: Increase rear night time visibility when backing up (not many street lights in New Hampshire), hooking up trailer, loading trailer, and tying down 4 wheelers. Paint mounting flange to match factory paint. As with all my mods, maintain an OEM look.

Difficulty: 5-6, basic wiring. It’s not difficult, but some may be reluctant to cut their perfectly good bumper. “Cut it once, cut it big” doesn’t apply here, accuracy is key.

Wiring: Since lights draw only 3.3 amps (3,136 LM output), I will not be installing included relay kit. Will direct wire to trailer plug harness located driver side rear frame rail. Yellow wire is positive (+) when vehicle is shifted to reverse, White wire is ground (-). Lights will turn on whenever vehicle is in reverse or when I turn on already install AOB aux switch http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/159174-factory-style-fog-light-switch-fits-knock-out.html

Tools required: Tape measure, Masking Tape, Air Saw, Square, Grease Pencil, Razor knife, Ratchet, extension, 10mm socket, File, Cordless drill , ¼” & 3/8” drill bits, Wire crimper/stripper, Wire Ties, Soldering iron/solder, Heat shrink, Electrical Tape (3M Super 88), 7/16” wrench, 7/64”, 5/32” Allen wrenches, paint, primer, red scuff pad.



Rigid Industries SR-Q Back Up Light Kit, part #98003. Include harness, relay, switch, mounting hardware, wiring diagram, and template.




I found the included template too large so I did not use, instead measured housing and found mounting hole should be 1 7/8” x 5”




Time to disassemble housing to prep for paint, using 7/64” allen wrench, remove 6 bolts. Note: two center bolts are slightly longer than the four outside bolts. While holding back of housing and a finger on lens, carefully remove mounting flange.



Light housing disassembled. There are two gaskets to prevent moisture intrusion, one seals mounting flange to housing, one between clear lens/ and mounting flange. Also, reflector assembly is not attached to housing, so be careful when disassembling.



Lens to flange gasket has a flat ribbed side and a curved side. The flat ribbed side goes toward clear lens, curved side goes toward flange. If you install backwards, light won’t seal properly…………..remember this!!!!!!!

 

[barryhiram]

Purchased rattle cans at Advanced Auto Parts for $23.00. Dupli-Color Super White, White Pearl, and Clear.





Cleaned flange with mineral spirits to clean and remove contaminates, using a red scuff pad, scuffed entire front of flange. Blow dust off so you have a clean surface. For best results, paint in a dust free area with no air movement. Apply two coats of self etching primer.



Once dry, apply two coats of Super White, then two coats of White Pearl.



Once dry, apply two coats of clear, set aside to thoroughly dry.



24 hours later, reassemble light assembly. Admire your handy work, not bad for a rattle can eh.

 

[barryhiram]

Time to disassemble rear bumper cover, with 10mm socket remove 5 screws shown by red arrows (5th is on end of mud flap), then remove two push pins on mud flap (not shown). Remove black inner trim panel, procedure is the same on driver and passenger side.



Since my vehicle has reverse sensors, harness on both outside sensors needs to be disconnected. To release plug from sensor, push down on release tab (red arrow) with finger while pulling back on plug. Next, harness between outer and inner sensor are held by tape (green arrow), remove tape so harness is now out of way. Driver side is basically the same except you are only able to move it down enough to allow cutting bumper.



Next, time to position lights on bumper. Since bumper has a curve to it, placing straight edge against bumper and moving outward as far as possible until straight comes off bumper (two black vertical marks). Distance from sensor to light flange was 6 ¼”. This was the flattest point……….if that makes any sense???



Laid out hole to be cut on left and right side, as mentioned before I used 1 7/8” x 5”



Apply masking tape (3 layers) to protect paint. Drill 4 - 3/8” holes, one in each corner, makes it easier to start each cut.



Holes cut! Take file and clean edges, test fit light, adjust as needed.



Tape removed…………….



Measured and cut harness longer than I needed, added wire loom to protect wires. Routed light harness along reverse sensor harness with wire ties.

 

[barryhiram]

Plug light into harness, insert into hole, drill two ¼” mounting holes, insert included stainless steel hardware, tighten. Reconnect reverse sensor plug, tie up any excess light wire harness, reinstall lower black trim panels.



Make final light harness connection to trailer harness, red wire of light harness to yellow wire, black wire from light harness to white wire. Ensure waterproof connections! Test lights……




Night shots…………sorry for the crappy cell phone photos.





Final thoughts………………………WHY DIDN’T I DO THIS SOONER! Light output is excellent, have had wicked bright high beams, now wicked bright reverse lights! Very happy with the results.

 

[raycie]

Nice.. can't wait to see the finished product. I just did mine this weekend as well. I used the relay and have mine just off the switch as I want to also use as a camping light. One thing I did notice is that the light sensitivity on the camera is pretty good. With the reverse lights on the camera actually dims because of the bright light...

 

[pauldavis]

Those look great. Well done and thank you for such a great write up on it. This will be on the future to do list.

 

[Jhalko]

Kinda lazy not painting the stainless bolts white too don't you think? Or save yourself the painting time by getting the already white marine version? Call me crazy I know.
:zoom:



:eyebrows: excellent write up...

 

[-dustin]

I like this a lot. Sub'ing for future reference.

 

[Saker]

They came out really nice....why would I expect any less! :doh:

 

[barryhiram]

Nice.. can't wait to see the finished product. I just did mine this weekend as well. I used the relay and have mine just off the switch as I want to also use as a camping light. One thing I did notice is that the light sensitivity on the camera is pretty good. With the reverse lights on the camera actually dims because of the bright light...

Thanks!

Reason for no relay was already installed reverse light override switch which required a relay......so kind of a two fur.



It's really nice when we load up at night to be able to turn on factory reverse lights and these without starting vehicle. More light is better'er!!!!!!!!!

 

[barryhiram]

Those look great. Well done and thank you for such a great write up on it. This will be on the future to do list.

Thank you sir!

 

[TrkyMfns]

Strangely enough, I'm more impressed by the paint match.Nice work! I've thought about painting my chrome door handles body colored. How close is the match?

 

[barryhiram]

Kinda lazy not painting the stainless bolts white too don't you think? Or save yourself the painting time by getting the already white marine version? Call me crazy I know.
:zoom:

Uhm, did you not notice all the chrome on my truck? Did you not see the chrome bumper trim JUST ABOVE THE LIGHTS? :flipoff: :moon: :lalala:

Actually I did check out the marine version Mr. Smarty Pants, but my OCD wouldn't allow it cause they're white, not pearl white!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Though I'm disappointed you didn't throw in that 40" wise crack.......

:eyebrows: excellent write up...

Thanks Jhalko, much appreciated buddy! :thumb:

 

[barryhiram]

I like this a lot. Sub'ing for future reference.

Thanks man!

 

[barryhiram]

They came out really nice....why would I expect any less! :doh:

Thanks Saker!

 

[Jhalko]

Uhm, did you not notice all the chrome on my truck? Did you not see the chrome bumper trim JUST ABOVE THE LIGHTS? :flipoff: :moon: :lalala:

Actually I did check out the marine version Mr. Smarty Pants, but my OCD wouldn't allow it cause they're white, not pearl white!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Though I'm disappointed you didn't throw in that 40" wise crack.......



Thanks Jhalko, much appreciated buddy! :thumb:

OCD for sure. I forget about all that chrome given most of mine is gone...

Nah, no way a 40" would fit in the bumper with the hitch, but if you REALLY wanted to step it up you would have done two 20" lights back there. Just sayin'

 

[barryhiram]

Strangely enough, I'm more impressed by the paint match.Nice work! I've thought about painting my chrome door handles body colored. How close is the match?

Thanks man!

Color match is pretty close, but if it were me, since it's tri coat paint, I'd op to purchase true automotive paint and spray it for a perfect match. Cost would certainly be a lot more!

 

[barryhiram]

OCD for sure. I forget about all that chrome given most of mine is gone...

Nah, no way a 40" would fit in the bumper with the hitch, but if you REALLY wanted to step it up you would have done two 20" lights back there. Just sayin'

Damn you, got me thinking about two 20" curved lights now!

 

[Saker]

OCD for sure. I forget about all that chrome given most of mine is gone...

Nah, no way a 40" would fit in the bumper with the hitch, but if you REALLY wanted to step it up you would have done two 20" lights back there. Just sayin'

Damn you, got me thinking about two 20" curved lights now!

I wanna see that done.....

Can you start next week?

stayin' tuned, .......... just sayin':spy:

 

[manofsteele2003]

Damn nice job, thinking of doing something similar. Had a pair of Rigid cubes in the rear of my FJ and loved having the extra visibility.