I keep having my right rear brake self adjust to tight and have to back it off, anybody have a decent photo of how everything should be in that drum? I made the mistake of letting a buddy do my brakes while I worked on my axle bearings and seals. I should have taken a picture myself before he started so I would know what is wrong now. Thanks in advance!
Right rear brake self adjusting to much...
- Thread starter fivegear
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
TheDurk
Elite Member
One thing to check is the bellcrank gap adjusting screw on the back of the drum. The FSM shows how to do this. As far as I can figure out, if it is too narrow, operating the e-brake will not adjust the shoes. If it is too wide, the adjustment will go at two clicks at a time, instead of one, thus possibly causing over-tightening.
I assume you have looked at the FSM diagrams. They pretty much show how it all goes together and where you need to lubricate.
I assume you have looked at the FSM diagrams. They pretty much show how it all goes together and where you need to lubricate.
Last edited:
No I haven't looked at the manual, sorry. I just pulled the drums off the other night in the garage and visually compared the two sides. Hopefully this weekend I will find more time to be thorough with it. Was kind of hoping somebody would have had this happen to them and have ideas before I tear into it
kennyb3030
New member
my right right rear is over adjusting also, if i use the drum brake tool and come in from the inside of the drum to adjust the star wheel, which way do i turn the star wheel to back the shoes OFF the drum, i think you either turn it up or down but im not sure which way to go, 
TheDurk
Elite Member
my right right rear is over adjusting also, if i use the drum brake tool and come in from the inside of the drum to adjust the star wheel, which way do i turn the star wheel to back the shoes OFF the drum, i think you either turn it up or down but im not sure which way to go,
Up. See Step 4 in the attached FSM section (Rear Drum Brake: Removal). I know I sound like a broken record, but a look at the FSM would give you the answer in less time than it took to write the post. I'm really doing you guys a big favor by suggesting you learn to use it.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/br/rdb/remo.pdf
Here is the part about adjusting the bellcrank (since I was there anyway).
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/br/rdb/inst.pdf
And here is the component diagram:
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/br/rdb/comp.pdf
Last edited:
Well I found the proverbial smoking gun, the bell crank pivot point was frozen solid with corrosion on the drivers side . This was allowing the passenger side to adjust and not the driver side. The adjustment up at the parking brake handle was almost all the way tightened also. Hope this information is usful to others as these 3rd gens get older.
. This was allowing the passenger side to adjust and not the driver side. The adjustment up at the parking brake handle was almost all the way tightened also. Hope this information is usful to others as these 3rd gens get older.kennyb3030
New member
do you get to the bell crank pivot from underneath the car or do you have to pull the tire and drum and go in from there ?
TheDurk
Elite Member
It's mounted on the outside of the back plate of the brake, so you can inspect it just by lying on the ground between the wheels to see if it is frozen. It has a rubber boot that you can pull back. But to remove it, or adjust the gap, you need to pull the wheel and drum.
BrianSD_42
New member
[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]
Do you have an updated copy of these links or documents, can you email them to me if the links are down?
I installed new rear brake shoes after doing the Axel seals and my rear brakes are just loose enough that they don't hinder the car from rolling at 5 mph BUT they heat up and smell after 10 mins driving at freeway speeds. They are really hot to the touch, probably about 250F because I can touch the drum real fast without burning/damaging my finger but it is super hot.
Do you have an updated copy of these links or documents, can you email them to me if the links are down?
I installed new rear brake shoes after doing the Axel seals and my rear brakes are just loose enough that they don't hinder the car from rolling at 5 mph BUT they heat up and smell after 10 mins driving at freeway speeds. They are really hot to the touch, probably about 250F because I can touch the drum real fast without burning/damaging my finger but it is super hot.
TheDurk
Elite Member
Yeah, they are all in here:
1996 to 2002 Toyota 4Runner OEM Repair and Wiring Manuals
OEM or aftermarket shoes? Some shoes will never work right. Only sure bet is OEM.
Yoter
New member
Could also be warped drums..
The axle oil will cause the pads to swell and over-heat the drums.
