Rim experts, this is my weak point so I'm looking for help

ellner357

New member
Okay now my question is what will fit? lol okay maybe some details.

I'm trying to decided if I should go aftermarket with my rims. I am mulling over going with 255/85/16 or 285/75/16. Either way I plan on getting 33's under there I guess it's just a matter of how wide. 285's seem more avalible locally. But that's not a big road block with the internet.

Fact of the matter is I have a 2" BL and I am wanting to stuff my tires in there before I get my lift. Only cause I need tires anyways.

What would you all recomend for Backspacing and or offset. This is all something that leaves me a little confused lol. I can get a lot of things but knowing what rims will fit. Leaves me baffled!
 
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I'm trying to decided if I should go aftermarket with my rims.

Lol ... I've decided you should go with OEM and have them powderCoated Satin or Gloss Black.

Any set of decent Aftermarket wheels will cost you near $600 shipped. You can buy OEM 16" 5-Stars or 17" double-5-stars for about $300 on CL. Another $300 to have them Powder Coated and hot dammn you have a great set that will last.

If you must go aftermarket then look through BFAD's thread. He has some ProComps that are pretty sick.

Don't get Eagle Alloys, I've owned them and they are cheap, won't last more than a few years.


BUT HEY I AM A BIT BIASED ...


:)

Thanks for all the support! I spend my week watching everyone elses posts, often in awe of the awesome rigs on t4R.



*********************************************************
Toyota 5-Star 16" Factory Wheels, Powder Coated Gloss Black
*********************************************************

* I finally got my new 5-Star Toyota Wheels installed.
* I had them Powder Coated at --San Diego Powder Coating-- which is located in El Cajon.
* I painted the Center Caps Toyota logo gloss red by hand.

Total cost: $320 out the door for the powder-coating.



Mounted on a 16" BFG





Here it is with the new Tundra Exhaust Tip installed as well





Factory Center Cap Painted Red (above)

* It took about 1 hr to paint the Logo red on all 4 of these
* I actually spent far more time failing at painting the center-caps gloss black before adding the red
* I was forced to strip them down to the plastic and primer them before I got the paint to stick

:bat:
 
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Lol ... I've decided you should go with OEM and have them powderCoated Satin or Gloss Black.

Any set of decent Aftermarket wheels will cost you near $600 shipped. You can buy OEM 16" 5-Stars or 17" double-5-stars for about $300 on CL. Another $300 to have them Powder Coated and hot dammn you have a great set that will last.

If you must go aftermarket then look through BFAD's thread. He has some ProComps that are pretty sick.

Don't get Eagle Alloys, I've owned them and they are cheap, won't last more than a few years.

Ha ha nice choice :P

I have no issue staying stock. Even if it is just a different stock then what I'm running right now. I don't mind the look of my 3 spokes. Fitment is priority 1 the rest is all icing.

Thanks for the tip I've seen lots of eagle alloys but never on anything I've liked lol.
 
There are definitely some great aftermarket wheels out there but also a lot of cheap ones that are just "barley decent" quality.

I'd suggest you look through the 3rd Gen Build List *Sticky* or the Master Build List in /General/ and see what others are running.


Aftermarket Eagle Alloys (~ $150 each)









Factory 5-Stars PowderCoated Gloss Black





:zoom:
 
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I like the stock 5 stars, but their backspacing isn't ideal for 285's. You'd be fine with 255's, but 285's might rub. So you'd have to factor in another $150-200 for spacers and you're well above a set of aftermarket wheels.

I'd look for a 16x8 with bs between 4.5-4.0. These backspacings will allow ample space between your tires and UCA's and will give you an aggressive look. I can't tell if you have flares, but I'd try to get closer to 4.0 bs if you have Limited or Sport flares. It looks better and will fill out the wheel wells, especially with the 255's.
 
I like the stock 5 stars, but their backspacing isn't ideal for 285's. You'd be fine with 255's, but 285's might rub. So you'd have to factor in another $150-200 for spacers and you're well above a set of aftermarket wheels.

I'd look for a 16x8 with bs between 4.5-4.0. These backspacings will allow ample space between your tires and UCA's and will give you an aggressive look. I can't tell if you have flares, but I'd try to get closer to 4.0 bs if you have Limited or Sport flares. It looks better and will fill out the wheel wells, especially with the 255's.

AGREED!!! the limited flares with stock tires makes it look like a grandma should be driving it lol 285s on 4" backspacing fill the fenders really nicely honestly. I even have some extrusion from my rear tires past my fender. just the sidewall though. BFAD's rig was the reason that i got my PC 7069s lol I love that rim as i cant run spacers in utah. (damned stupid safely laws) they had a great backspacing.

the other thing that you need to strongly consider when picking a rim is the factory recommended width for the tire. if it is two narrow, ie 285 on a 16x7, then you will have center wear from the tread patch not being able to even out. granted a lower psi will help that but you would be running a good amount lower. too wide, ie 255 on a 9 in rim, you can get sidewall bulging and tread patch "cupping. tires are a b**ch to get right sometimes. either tirerack or discount have a inforamtion page that goes over a lot of this stuff. just read any and everything that you can find. ask the experts so that you can be the expert!!!
 
You can run 255/85/16 with your stock wheels, but most 285/75/16 tires require at least a 7.5" wide wheel.

Here's 255/85/16 on our F-5 wheels which is 16x8.

F5_Jimmy-2.jpg~original


F5_Jimmy.jpg~original
 
The conversation of 255, 265, 285 ect. is basically a what tire size is ideal conversation.

There are benefits and drawbacks to going with a 31.5 (mine), 32, 33 or 33+ tire.

Keep in mind that there is a big difference between "not rubbing" in-town and "not rubbing" out on the trail at full flex. Huge difference as many people learn the hard way.
 
The conversation of 255, 265, 285 ect. is basically a what tire size is ideal conversation.

There are benefits and drawbacks to going with a 31.5 (mine), 32, 33 or 33+ tire.

Keep in mind that there is a big difference between "not rubbing" in-town and "not rubbing" out on the trail at full flex. Huge difference as many people learn the hard way.

Not a truer word out there!!!


and this is why you full flex your suspension with tires on and turned in different ways to test for clearances lol
 
Well now I've been humming and hawing, reading and killing my self trying to decide. I did want 285's I talked to a tire shop about 255 thinking the 285 might be a problem. So westcoast tire offered a test fit. We jacked it up tried the 285's flexed it let it go to full drop cranked it over. The only issue I have with rubbing is at full lock they bump the frame. I could care less about that. I may discover something when I'm really flexed out on the trail. But I'll survive till I get my lift kit.

20130308_144105-1.jpg~original
 
I've got 16x8 s with 4.5" BS and -6 offset. On road and off road I don't have any significant rubbing. The only rubbing I have is at full lock, the very bottom of my bumper valance will catch...but no damage has occurred from the rubbing. And I'm running 285s...I have the black SR5 flares, and my tires stick out about 1" past the flares...I love the stance.
 

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