"Roach" build thread

nothing yet. just ran to get some food and that was about it. sure sounds sweet but like its choking on its exhaust. schedule should free up after Tuesday (I'll be done with mid terms) and I'd like to get run in on the dyno Wednesday.

I had to adjust my timing advance though. I could really smell it running lean so I got it to the point of how the exhaust SHOULD smell. Wonder if that has anything to do with the VAF position. it shouldn't. probably time for another smoke test.

TPS needs adjustment and then I'm hoping the "set timing" jumper will work.
 
Decided on building a bumper that isn't just a copy... think plate meets prerunner meets tube? I dunno, but it should make sense when you see it. Same for the rear (I like the idea of bash plates). I suck at CAD so It's being done on paper this time unless I magically figure it out.

Also got the chance to go play around for the first time ever... It's fun, nerve racking at first but I got over it :).

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Intake sounds great. More so than any car I've had. I had to adjust the timing again so it might hurt me on the dyno, but I'd like to get a run in tomorrow.

I said I wouldn't mod this one... I knew it would be a lie.

That just means I really have to think about what I'm doing. My main goal, though I want to just mod the hell out of this one, is to go with the 302 swap on the focus. Get that rolling, I have another DD, and then go for an engine swap on this one. IF I can still get the bellhousing, I want one for a 1UZ. There's enough cars around here I can pick up an LS400 for $1000 and have everything I need. Then sell the car without an engine.

I did wash it at least... seriously spent way too much washing everything off of it.
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Mostly finished my ultra clean hella install. if you can see it in the picture the front end is covered in bugs after a 120 mile trip.

oh yeah I say mostly because they don't work. I can't figure out how the hi beams get their power or ground and as such have left them disconnected for now til I figure it out. its either pre headlight relay, pre combo switch or Toyota's diagram sucks so much I can't figure it out.

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Interesting change of events... I went to go pick up my spare 3.0 block today. Turns out it was just sent for scrap. I do still have the heads, already cleaned up from the head shop. This WAS a factory longblock likely replaced under the HG recall. The valves in #6 are bent pretty hardcore but that's the only cylinder. Camshafts have NO wear on them :)

So there goes rebuilding my spare block... BUT it's cheaper because now I'm just gonna do the heads so I can fix my lifter tick and also increase the amount of air they can take in via port job and a cam regrind... plus I'm sure I'll be taking a bit off the bottom of the head. Also managed to save my spare passenger manifold so I can kill the crossover when I do the head job so the whole system can breathe better.
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Also decided I'm gonna try to sell my mazda. Started it up today and apparently all the oil leaked out of it. I really don't have time to fix everything wrong with it, just kinda done even though its a fun car.

Amazingly this means I will be keeping the focus so it can get a 5.0 engine. huh. didn't see that coming. OH and of course it means I can focus more attention on the Roach.
 
it hides all the scratches so well lol... not sure how. If you saw it in person you'd see there's tons of baby surface scratches from sitting in those trees. and washed out spots on the hood and fender from corrosive berries :/

body is otherwise straight and I need to grab a buffer and some polishing compound and go to town. someday.

figured out my wiring btw. I spliced the right wire... but had it backwards. Toyota's diagram sucks. I'd fix it but I'm out of connectors right now. I'm very close to just soldiering my ground wire to the battery ground cable. I mounted the relay right there next to the battery.
 
got my lights to work like they should now. love the brightness.

oh yeah and if you thought that was clean... here. I just washed it and used the car wash wax option (mmm cherries). now if only I could buff the scratches out with an orbital. much needed really.

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haha funny guys.

so back on the topic of rock sliders... my mom tried to get in to the truck the other day. could barely do it. I'm stock height with runners removed.

Now I still plan to do a 2" body lift in preparation for an eventual engine swap. and I expect that I'll eventually have a suspension lift as well.

so with that... there's no way in hell she will be able to get in. :P

I'm entertaining methods of electric/pneumatic operation because its cool, but since I don't need to put the sliders up to drive it doesn't matter.

I'm thinking of using those trailer lock things, where you push the button and pull? like the brush guard on a real Hummer. lol

since I want the sliders angled up some, 20-25%, I think if I make them swivel around a tubular base and lock into position it should work. anyone Done this?
 
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ah... positive locking quick release pins. that's what I meant.

well its kind of exciting. let's see what I come up with
 
I'm having the same issue with mine--with both a suspension- and body lift, it makes it very interesting to get in (I'm only 5'6"). Adding my sliders has helped, as I can pop up onto those and then ease into the seat. Still, I've thought about adding small, removable steps to help others who might ride along (at least for the street--on the trail, I want max clearance). Never thought about making the whole slider swivel down--unfortunately, that might make it difficult to get full strength protection, having a pivot in there. Dropping your truck on a rock creates a lot of force to withstand. I'm sure it's possible, though.
 
that's my concern as well... don't want to see the pins bent up. maybe I'll just get one of those folding stools.

removable steps aren't a bad idea either.
 
If I ever make my own sliders from scratch, I'm going to put a piece of outer hitch steel in the outside tube to accept a hilift with no danger of it slipping. You could do that, and then fab a lower step to put in it for tooling around town, and pull it off for better clearance when wheeling?
 
KidVermicious said:
If I ever make my own sliders from scratch, I'm going to put a piece of outer hitch steel in the outside tube to accept a hilift with no danger of it slipping. You could do that, and then fab a lower step to put in it for tooling around town, and pull it off for better clearance when wheeling?
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not a bad idea.

man I really want to do something to it again but not sure what. don't have any money to spend right now.
 
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