Rock sliders / Rock rails

Okki,

Have you tried doing the TE trim runners above the sliders yet? Does it fit against the LE front and rear trim?

Thanks.
@BrianLSU

The rear is fine, but on the front you need to also replace the fender over-molding and the mud guards. I got mine back from paint (I would NOT try this at home.. it cost me $40 more to fix my created mess before they could properly paint the parts - $390 total paint bill) early this week and they are going on this weekend. I'll post pics of the process afterwards.

The plan is to wash and wax the truck saturday and than install the parts (can't was the painted pieces for 30 days).

Okki
 
Ok, so the rear doesn't require a swap.

Now, the fender over-molding, do you mean the actual exterior fender flares? I suspect so since you needed to get them painted, I guess to match the painted rear.

What was the total cost, materials and paint?

Thanks.
 
Hi Brian,

Search for posts by me, I have a lengthier write up on the whole process that includes part numbers and prices, but the short answer:

Rock Rails $640
Replacement TE parts $680
Professional paint job $350

It's a pricey project :(
 
Hi Brian,

Search for posts by me, I have a lengthier write up on the whole process that includes part numbers and prices, but the short answer:

Rock Rails $640
Replacement TE parts $680
Professional paint job $350

It's a pricey project :(

Or just have some sliders built that fit your SR5 or Limited!!!!

Any shop can build these sliders in your area. I built mine, and hundreds of people used to build these themselves before they were bolt on accessories.

My advice is take some pictures of what you want down to your local 4X4 or fabrication shop. It will take them a couple days and cost you the same or less as Shockworks!!!
 
Or just have some sliders built that fit your SR5 or Limited!!!!

Any shop can build these sliders in your area. I built mine, and hundreds of people used to build these themselves before they were bolt on accessories.

My advice is take some pictures of what you want down to your local 4X4 or fabrication shop. It will take them a couple days and cost you the same or less as Shockworks!!!

This! Jason Demello made my sliders. I kept my LE rocker panels and he trimmed them down to about 1.5" - 2" total height. I keep the finished look and didn't need to buy extra parts, the only thing I did was black the chrome accents on the panels. I didn't even install them myself and the total cost was less than the price for the SW sliders.
 
I start down the route of trimmed LMTD rockers but once you trim them, you loose the plastic that wraps under the truck and protects the body and rails from mud etc.

Personally i like the fact that the replacement pieces keep the truck looking more OEM and less DIY. However, I still have my original notched rockers laying around, so if someone want to try the cut-off look, they can still run them through a band saw or high-speed jigsaw and cut them down to 1.5" - 2" from the top. $50 for the pair plus actual shipping for those who are interested. they are Toyota 202 black.
 
I start down the route of trimmed LMTD rockers but once you trim them, you loose the plastic that wraps under the truck and protects the body and rails from mud etc.

Personally i like the fact that the replacement pieces keep the truck looking more OEM and less DIY. However, I still have my original notched rockers laying around, so if someone want to try the cut-off look, they can still run them through a band saw or high-speed jigsaw and cut them down to 1.5" - 2" from the top. $50 for the pair plus actual shipping for those who are interested. they are Toyota 202 black.

Don't need plastic to protect my body I have sliders under there for that!

I don't mind DIY when I saved about 1000 bucks over your set up and it looks identical!

Once again though, just my stupid opinion!
 
Don't need plastic to protect my body I have sliders under there for that!

I don't mind DIY when I saved about 1000 bucks over your set up and it looks identical!

Once again though, just my stupid opinion!
To each their own.. but if you don't care how your truck looks, why did you even trim the rockers down to 2 inches instead of just undoing some screws and pulling them off?

For those interested, I'll post some more pics of the project a little later tonight.. have to go let the dog out.
Okki
 
Fender Flare removal and installation

So I got the rocker panels and front fender flares back from the painters this week. Below is my adventure in installation.

Removing the LMTD fender flares:
You have to install the fender flares BEFORE you install the rocker panels. At the bottom there is a blue clip that makes a great starting point once all the screws have been removed from the inside fender wall. remove all the screws and use a trim pry tool like this one from Griots Garage. I highly recommend using a tool, although you can simply pull the flare off, but you run the risk of breaking off the receiving ends on the flare.

There is a thin strip of double sided tape that also connects the flare to the fender metal.

Installing the TE flare:
First check to see if any clips broke; most likely you will have broken a few. i ordered my replacement ones from ClipsAndFasteners.com - Automotive Retainers,Clips and Fasteners
Orange ones
blue Ones

I was not able to find the thin double sided tape anywhere, but if you double up on 3M mounting tape like the 3M™ Scotch-Mount™ Molding Tape, 03609 you should be fine. This should give you enough height to just clear the lip that connects up with the fender.

I first clipped in the bottom blue clip and the orange end clip. I then pushed and clipped the remaining one. I didn't, but you can use some masking tape to place markers on the fender so you know where the clips are.

I first thought that the rear of the rocker panel would line up with the trim on the rear doors; it doesn't. However, I don't dislike the look and the bottom of that trim piece has a rubber cover, so no dirt etc will get into it. I may replace it with TE trim at some point, but I've spent enough on this project so far; I want a Defiant light bar and Baja rack first :)

Installing the TE rocker panel:
Keep in mind that when installing the TE rocker panel on a LMTD there is a rubber plug under the rear doors that needs to be removed so the drain that is part of the TE rocker can partially slide into the hole. Getting this to line up can be a minor pain, but if you can lay under the truck with a light source, it shouldn't be a big deal.

Installing the TE front mudguards:
For the mud guards you will be missing some clips. I ran down to Lowes and for just over $2 I got 4 clips to lock the mudguards in place. The screws keep them on the truck, but the clips keep them from being able to sway back and forth. I used a 5MM screw-in and a 7/16 nylon rivet. I wasn't sure which one would fit better, so I got some of each. The 7/16 rivet is the slightly snugger fitting option, so I would probably use those on both holes.

Feel free to give me a shout with any questions.

Okki
 

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Last edited:
So I got the rocker panels and front fender flares back from the painters this week. Below is my adventure in installation.

Removing the LMTD fender flares:
You have to install the fender flares BEFORE you install the rocker panels. At the bottom there is a blue clip that makes a great starting point once all the screws have been removed from the inside fender wall. remove all the screws and use a trim pry tool like this one from Griots Garage. I highly recommend using a tool, although you can simply pull the flare off, but you run the risk of breaking off the receiving ends on the flare.

There is a thin strip of double sided tape that also connects the flare to the fender metal.

Installing the TE flare:
First check to see if any clips broke; most likely you will have broken a few. i ordered my replacement ones from ClipsAndFasteners.com - Automotive Retainers,Clips and Fasteners
Orange ones
blue Ones

I was not able to find the thin double sided tape anywhere, but if you double up on 3M mounting tape like the 3M™ Scotch-Mount™ Molding Tape, 03609 you should be fine. This should give you enough height to just clear the lip that connects up with the fender.

I first clipped in the bottom blue clip and the orange end clip. I then pushed and clipped the remaining one. I didn't, but you can use some masking tape to place markers on the fender so you know where the clips are.

I first thought that the rear of the rocker panel would line up with the trim on the rear doors; it doesn't. However, I don't dislike the look and the bottom of that trim piece has a rubber cover, so no dirt etc will get into it. I may replace it with TE trim at some point, but I've spent enough on this project so far; I want a Defiant light bar and Baja rack first :)

Installing the TE rocker panel:
Keep in mind that when installing the TE rocker panel on a LMTD there is a rubber plug under the rear doors that needs to be removed so the drain that is part of the TE rocker can partially slide into the hole. Getting this to line up can be a minor pain, but if you can lay under the truck with a light source, it shouldn't be a big deal.

Installing the TE front mudguards:
For the mud guards you will be missing some clips. I ran down to Lowes and for just over $2 I got 4 clips to lock the mudguards in place. The screws keep them on the truck, but the clips keep them from being able to sway back and forth. I used a 5MM screw-in and a 7/16 nylon rivet. I wasn't sure which one would fit better, so I got some of each. The 7/16 rivet is the slightly snugger fitting option, so I would probably use those on both holes.

Feel free to give me a shout with any questions.

Okki


That looks great. I'm very interested. How much did you spend, and could you specify all the parts you purchased? Take some photos from further away!
 
Need pictures of an SR5 with the Rocky Road SR5 Sliders.

Anyone have any pictures of a Magnetic Gray SR5 with the Rocky Road Sliders that are made for the SR5 installed. I'm debating about selling my Like new Oem running boards and replacing them with the SR5 roky Road Sliders.
Thanks:thanks:
 
I've heard the shrockworks sliders are really strong. are the RR sliders just as strong? anyone tried using a hi lift on them?
 
Not the best picture. I've seen this already but would like to see a picture of the whole truck at different angles.

Not the best "picture"??? Did you happen to see the 5 PAGES of that thread and the MULTIPLE pictureS from different angles???
 
Sorry I did not see it.

Not the best "picture"??? Did you happen to see the 5 PAGES of that thread and the MULTIPLE pictureS from different angles???

Sorry, I missed that westwind77. I didn't realize there was 5 pages after I clicked your link.
But I still would like to see a picture of the whole SR5 4Runner (not just the close up shots of the sliders, which I have seen) showing the sliders from the side and giving me a better picture of how low they sit to the ground from a distance.
 
better picture of how low they sit to the ground from a distance.

I might have a further back one that I did not post, will look when I get home tonight. If you are worried about clearance you can see how I measured the distance from the ground to bottom of them, well above the Toyota GC spec.
 
I might have a further back one that I did not post, will look when I get home tonight. If you are worried about clearance you can see how I measured the distance from the ground to bottom of them, well above the Toyota GC spec.

Here you go....

IMAG0200.jpg~original


IMAG0199.jpg~original


IMAG0198.jpg~original


Cell phone pics, not the clearest, but should be what you are looking for.
 
Thanks

Here you go....

IMAG0200.jpg~original


IMAG0199.jpg~original


IMAG0198.jpg~original


Cell phone pics, not the clearest, but should be what you are looking for.

Thanks, Westwind77 these pictures give me a much better idea of how they look and how low they are.The sliders look much better than the running boards I now have. Thanks again.
 

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