Rock Sliders!

traxman25

New member

4x Innovations Rock Sliders
come in a variety of lengths as well as custom lengths! Your slider can be built from 1.75x.120 HREW or 1.75x.120 DOM tubing, to fit your budget and wheeling style. Just cruising around in the woods, and muddy trails and want a little protection/step, go for the HREW. Romping in the boulders, dropping off ledges, and hammering on your rig, go for the DOM. If you are really hard core we'll even make them from heavy wall tubing, just pay for the additional materials cost. All models include a 2 inch bump out at the back of the slider to help protect your fender flares and to push your truck around objects that might hang up your tires. And of course as always these slider kits come with frame fish (scab) plates, and gussets to fully support your entire slider and truck frame the way it should be, and we don't charge any extra for the added parts!

Available sliders: Length / Yr / Model / Material / Price

  1. 60" 84-95 Std. Pick Up + 84-89 4 Runner HREW
  2. 60" 84-95 Std. Pick Up + 84-89 4 Runner DOM
  3. 66" 90-14 4 Runner HREW
  4. 66" 90-14 4 Runner DOM
  5. 80" 89-95 Excab Pick Up HREW
  6. 80" 89-95 Excab Pick Up DOM
  7. 60" 95-04 runner/std. Tacoma HREW
  8. 60" 95-04 runner/std. Tacoma DOM
  9. 80" 95-04 Excab Tacoma HREW
  10. 80" 95-04 Excab Tacoma DOM
  11. 05+ Regular Cab Tacoma HREW
  12. 05+ Regular Cab Tacoma DOM
  13. 05+ Access Cab Tacoma HREW
  14. 05+ Access Cab Tacoma DOM
  15. 05+ Dbl Cab Srt Bed Tacoma HREW
  16. 05+ Dbl Cab Srt Bed Tacoma DOM
  17. 05+ Dbl Cab Long Bed Tacoma DOM
  18. Upgrade any DOM slider set to a 2 inch square main tube!
  19. Check out the install guide available here for details on how to install weld on Rock Sliders.

Contact us via phone or email anytime.

You may be looking at the list and asking what the difference between the HREW tubing and DOM tubing is. Here's some info for you to consider.
The HREW stands for Hot Rolled Electric Welded. This tube starts as a strip of flat plate that is heated, rolled, and welded into a tube shape. The shape of the tube is determined by the rollers that roll it and no second operations are performed. It is also typically rolled from a softer steel.
The DOM stands for Drawn over Mandrel. First off, DOM IS still welded seam tubing, just because you can't see the weld seam doesn't mean it isn't there. The only tube that is seamless is actually called Seamless Tubing. Seamless is VERY expensive and mostly only stainless steel or large tube sizes. Don't let others fool you about that. DOM starts its life as either HREW or CREW (Cold Rolled), depending on who is rolling it, that has been rolled oversize. That oversize tube is then sent through a die and mandrel that shape the tube into its final size. This process is done cold which work hardens the steel, making it significantly stronger. The process of resizing and cold working the tube gives a more uniform shape and size and smoothes the weld seam. The DOM we use is also made from a higher grade steel that is stronger to start with. Over all the DOM is going to be around 30% stronger than the HREW tube.
DOM is significantly more dent resistant and is strongly recommended as the material of choice for heavier trucks such as the Tacoma. It is also strongly recommended as the material of choice for any roll cage. The drawback is that it has a higher cost than the HREW tubing.

227815d1479776646-rock-sliders-rs05_1lx-jpg
 

Attachments

  • RS03_2LX.jpg
    RS03_2LX.jpg
    135.4 KB · Views: 9,327
  • RS01_R3LX.jpg
    RS01_R3LX.jpg
    115.2 KB · Views: 8,047
  • RS04_2LX.jpg
    RS04_2LX.jpg
    71.1 KB · Views: 7,947
  • RS04_5LX.jpg
    RS04_5LX.jpg
    90.3 KB · Views: 7,583
  • RS05_1LX.jpg
    RS05_1LX.jpg
    97.7 KB · Views: 5,863
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
We have lots of DOM sliders in stock now and we're working on HREW now. Get your orders in so you can be covered on your next trip!
 
Would you make one? I just don't have access to a welder myself. I'll ask around to see how much it'd cost to have one welded up though.
 
Yeah I know,part of the reason I plan on purchasing your sliders, just wanted to make sure. What about is the expected time frame from order to shipment for a set with HREW tubing and kickouts? Thanks!
 
took about 3 weeks from sunday night order to friday lunch time fedex delivery! not to bad they were out of stock when i placed the order. I got them last friday and added 3/16" plate steel to the bottom and an 11gauge bolt on top plate. The slidders def. prove to strong enough on there own just wanted to slide on rocks a little better with the plating. Thanks 4xInnovations!!. took me all weekend but i got them welded up on my own wouldve gone faster if i had a helper lol.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1051 (640x478).jpg
    IMG_1051 (640x478).jpg
    42.3 KB · Views: 15,318
  • IMG_1053.jpg
    IMG_1053.jpg
    137 KB · Views: 9,376
  • IMG_1050.jpg
    IMG_1050.jpg
    134.9 KB · Views: 9,202
66" dom upgrade with kickout for the 96-02+ 4runners the front of the slider is about 6" behind the front tire and the rear of the slider is about 5" in front of the rear wheel with my 305/70/r16 setup anyway. I couldve chopped the body mount and centered it on the wheel base but i was satisfied with the 1" offcenter.
 
Last edited:
66" dom upgrade with kickout for the 96-02+ 4runners the front of the slider is about 6" behind the front tire and the rear of the slider is about 5" in front of the rear wheel with my 305/70/r16 setup anyway. I couldve chopped the body mount and centered it on the wheel base but i was satisfied with the 1" offcenter.

You shouldn't have had to even think about cutting the body mount for anything to do with the sliders, what was causing that potential interference?
 
You shouldn't have had to even think about cutting the body mount for anything to do with the sliders, what was causing that potential interference?

I wouldnt call it a potention interference i mean, I did have the abilty to place the slider where ever i wanted it. I suppose just the way i wanted the sliders to tuck and sit put the front end of the slider about 3/16"-1/4" from touching the body mount (being placed 1" behind center of wheel base) I welded on 3/16" thick steel plating to the bottom of the sliders and counter sunk bolted an 11 gauge top plate. the counter sunk allan headed bolts required about a 5/8" gap between the bottom lip of the rocker panel (not the face of the rocker panel but that last little flat edge of plastic) I had to creat a gap there to allow a shortened allan wrench to remove the counter sunk bolts. My 4runner is a limited model which came with lights on the running boards so my intentions with the plating were to intigrate the orignal limited running board lighting/wiring into the sliders. I haven't decided exactly how i want to set the lights up in them yet (weather they face up or down, what bulbs i'll run or anything like that) but with the top plate removeable i can clean any debree i catch in there with the added plates and add the wiring and lights at convience.

on a side note: do they look to be in a similar location relevant to the body to other sliders you've seen put on 3rd or 4th gens? do the angles on the out running tubing seem to be similar to others as well? just curious I'm really happy with them. I love the 2" kickout, they show very minal flex with weight bouncing on them. As well I love the fact that i had the ability to customize them. oh and they were the best priced sliders on the market. Only thing to do now is get these things sliding on some rocks and see how my plating holds up underneath as well as my welds haha.
 
more pics! any armor idea to protect these big ass mirrors lol
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1055.jpg
    IMG_1055.jpg
    136.8 KB · Views: 9,418
  • IMG_1056.jpg
    IMG_1056.jpg
    136.8 KB · Views: 9,176
  • IMG_1041[1].jpg
    IMG_1041[1].jpg
    141.5 KB · Views: 15,666
Last edited:
Ah ok I see. For reference we do recommend at least 3/8" of gap between the body and the slider to allow both the body to flex as you are driving, and the slider will flex some under load also. Closer to a 1/2" gap is better anyway.

As far as how you installed them, looks good. I like the plating and installing lights into them will be really nice. Thanks for posting the pictures!
 
thanks for building such affordable, practical, awesome sliders that are easily customized!! If i ever get around to adding the lights ill post some more pics up
Thanks again Adam!!
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,308
Messages
3,554,060
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top