Rocks & Flops: a 1-Ton SAS Build
- Thread starter Team_Jake
- Start date
Team_Jake
Member
The moment of truth
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And the inside of the cab stayed completely intact.
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And the inside of the cab stayed completely intact.
Team_Jake
Member
In order to get the rear triangulated 4-link to fit properly, I swapped in an F150 fuel tank (Spectra Premium part number F1G1FA).
I wanted the fuel gauge on the dash to work like stock, so I made a bracket that can attach the Toyota sending unit to the Ford fuel pump. The float arm required some modification to fit right.
Installing the fuel tank using the eimkeith bracket kit (had to lower it all ~1/2” to fit under the cab).
For the filler neck, I reused the stock cap and used a 2” (not so) flexible fuel hose (24” long) from O’Reilly to connect to the tank. The tank vent is made from 1/2” fuel hose, connecting to a barb on the tank (McMaster-Carr part numbers 5463K86 and 1171N201).
All hooked up.
I wanted the fuel gauge on the dash to work like stock, so I made a bracket that can attach the Toyota sending unit to the Ford fuel pump. The float arm required some modification to fit right.
Installing the fuel tank using the eimkeith bracket kit (had to lower it all ~1/2” to fit under the cab).
For the filler neck, I reused the stock cap and used a 2” (not so) flexible fuel hose (24” long) from O’Reilly to connect to the tank. The tank vent is made from 1/2” fuel hose, connecting to a barb on the tank (McMaster-Carr part numbers 5463K86 and 1171N201).
All hooked up.
Team_Jake
Member
I pulled it out of the garage for the first time in a long time and gave it a much needed wash.
Without the fenders trimmed, the 4runner really couldn't do anything other than go straight. Nothing an angle grinder, sawzall, mini sledge hammer, and a welder couldn't fix.
First I ripped off the limited fender trim (with the amount of up-travel I have there was no way I was going to be able to make that trim work out). Then I started cutting only what was necessary from the body at full suspension flex (I don't have a photo of it, but I used a stencil made from posterboard mounted to the hub to mark out where I needed to cut so I didn't have to keep mounting and dismounting the wheel/tire).
I didn't really like how the rear doorline was turning out, so I cut slightly into the door to blend the lines a little better. I was liking these lines much better.
Then patched it all with 18 gauge sheet metal (this all really sucked doing by the way, definitely my least favorite task).
I then painted it with Dupli-color Perfect Match in Natural White (btw I was really impressed with how close the color match was). After painting both the outside and wheel well fenders in white, I then painted the wheel wells with some black rubberized undercoating. To finish it all off, I added some thin black fender trim (Cowles Protekto-Trim 39-511-01).
Without the fenders trimmed, the 4runner really couldn't do anything other than go straight. Nothing an angle grinder, sawzall, mini sledge hammer, and a welder couldn't fix.
First I ripped off the limited fender trim (with the amount of up-travel I have there was no way I was going to be able to make that trim work out). Then I started cutting only what was necessary from the body at full suspension flex (I don't have a photo of it, but I used a stencil made from posterboard mounted to the hub to mark out where I needed to cut so I didn't have to keep mounting and dismounting the wheel/tire).
I didn't really like how the rear doorline was turning out, so I cut slightly into the door to blend the lines a little better. I was liking these lines much better.
Then patched it all with 18 gauge sheet metal (this all really sucked doing by the way, definitely my least favorite task).
I then painted it with Dupli-color Perfect Match in Natural White (btw I was really impressed with how close the color match was). After painting both the outside and wheel well fenders in white, I then painted the wheel wells with some black rubberized undercoating. To finish it all off, I added some thin black fender trim (Cowles Protekto-Trim 39-511-01).
Team_Jake
Member
With the custom front frame section I need to build a custom front bumper. I’ve spent quite a bit of time designing it in SolidWorks, I want a low-profile plate style bumper with an excellent approach angle.
I’m incorporating in some Baja Designs Squadron Pros and S8 lights (part numbers 597815 and 702013), and a Comeup Seal Slim 9.5rs Winch.
This is what I came up with. All structural pieces are made from 1/4” steel, recovery points are 3/4” and plates are 11 gauge. The bumper itself is removable from the front frame using six 1/2” bolts.
I’m incorporating in some Baja Designs Squadron Pros and S8 lights (part numbers 597815 and 702013), and a Comeup Seal Slim 9.5rs Winch.
This is what I came up with. All structural pieces are made from 1/4” steel, recovery points are 3/4” and plates are 11 gauge. The bumper itself is removable from the front frame using six 1/2” bolts.
Team_Jake
Member
The stock master cylinder can’t cut it with the size of the brakes from these 1-ton axles and these 40” tires. To solve that, I swapped in a master cylinder from a late 80s Suburban, ACDelco part number 18M1884 (it has a 1-1/4” bore, as compared to the OEM 13/16” bore, so the stopping power of this new MC is 2.37x that of stock). The brake booster is stock though (dual diaphragm booster, should be able to handle the new MC).
The bolt hole spacing on the Suburban master cylinder is slightly wider than the two bolts on my booster, so I had to wallow out the holes a little using a dremel.
The plunger on the booster also had to be shaved down a little.
I also installed a Wilwood proportioning valve (part number 260-10922) for the line going to the rear brakes.
I replaced nearly all the brake lines on the 4runner, I used some 3/16” copper-nickel line and double flared all the connecting points.
I also had some custom flexible lines made from a local shop (Crown Performance) go from the frame to a T on each axle housing, plus flexible lines were installed at all 4 calipers (6 total flexible lines).
The bolt hole spacing on the Suburban master cylinder is slightly wider than the two bolts on my booster, so I had to wallow out the holes a little using a dremel.
The plunger on the booster also had to be shaved down a little.
I also installed a Wilwood proportioning valve (part number 260-10922) for the line going to the rear brakes.
I replaced nearly all the brake lines on the 4runner, I used some 3/16” copper-nickel line and double flared all the connecting points.
I also had some custom flexible lines made from a local shop (Crown Performance) go from the frame to a T on each axle housing, plus flexible lines were installed at all 4 calipers (6 total flexible lines).
phattyduck
Elite Member
The S8 lights are good on output. I run a 30" S8 bar with the lenses swapped around a bit to get the wide/spot mix that works for me (2x combo, 1x wide). It basically replaces the bottom 'bar' on my grill.
What are your plans for accessing the winch clutch lever? Also, it is nice to have a 'window' to view the winch drum to check how the line is spooling up (both during a pull and when re-spooling later).
-Charlie
Team_Jake
Member
[MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION]
This picture probably doesn’t show it well, but you can see the drum/line fairly well at the bottom of the grill.
In order to activate the clutch on the winch, I have to open the hood and reach behind the grill to turn it.
I will be the first to admit it is not the most practical solution, but these clutch levers on the ComeUp winches are easy to turn (can easily be done with 2 fingers). If I find it tough to turn on the trail I’ll either 3d print an extension or plumb in an air clutch.
I wish I could give a real-world trip report on how it was operating the winch while doing the Rubicon trail recently, but the winch never got used, lol.
This picture probably doesn’t show it well, but you can see the drum/line fairly well at the bottom of the grill.
In order to activate the clutch on the winch, I have to open the hood and reach behind the grill to turn it.
I will be the first to admit it is not the most practical solution, but these clutch levers on the ComeUp winches are easy to turn (can easily be done with 2 fingers). If I find it tough to turn on the trail I’ll either 3d print an extension or plumb in an air clutch.
I wish I could give a real-world trip report on how it was operating the winch while doing the Rubicon trail recently, but the winch never got used, lol.
phattyduck
Elite Member
That all looks good. My winch control box sits right about where you have to reach in to turn your clutch, so my hood has to be open (at least popped) to operate the winch with wired controls... I liked that better than having it sit out in the open in front of the grill. I spend to much time in the 'city' to have winch parts easily accessible like that.
-Charlie
Team_Jake
Member
Like I mentioned in my previous post, I took the 4Runner to the Rubicon trail recently. It was a good shake down for the rig. My wife and 2.5yo son joined and we got a few solid camping/wheeling days out of it. We drove it to and from the trail from San Diego, no trailering. Thankfully we literally had zero issues with the rig, here are some photos from the trail:
Team_Jake
Member
Here’s a little clip of me going up Soup Bowl (though I did stall it at the apex like a kook):
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4runner320
New member
Killer build. Bookmarking this for inspiration later
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Siiiiick!!!!
2TH4IST
Member
Holy smokes that is rad! Fantastic work. I was having an issue loading up pics and I was going through previous posts, amazing. Welding sheet metal is fun they said.....
The fuel fill hose, is it like a radiator hose or is it mildly thick with wire support similar to gates # 23924?
You mentioned you used generic parts store fuel filler hose. Keep an eye on it. When I did my f150 swap I used similar hose (fuel filler neck hose, like radiator hose) and the hose dried and cracked, then puked gallons of freshly billion dollar fuel.
The fuel fill hose, is it like a radiator hose or is it mildly thick with wire support similar to gates # 23924?
You mentioned you used generic parts store fuel filler hose. Keep an eye on it. When I did my f150 swap I used similar hose (fuel filler neck hose, like radiator hose) and the hose dried and cracked, then puked gallons of freshly billion dollar fuel.
