Rokmen UCAs

[Cory619]

I'm curious if there are any members who have installed the Rokmen UCAs on their Gen4? I am installing mine this weekend but have a concern about the -1.1 Caster on my alignment. For a 2.5-3" lift it is recommended to use the standard setup. But since I am -1.1 in my castor wondering if I should go +1 on the included shims.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[RonJR]

I haven't used the Rokmen UCA's, but given your caster measurements, I would set the UCA's for +1 deg. That will move the caster in the right direction and allow the proper range of adjustment using the LCA cam bolts.

In general, a 2.5 inch front lift with a 1.5 inch rear lift will cause you to lose about 1.1 deg of caster. Setting the aftermarket UCA's to +1 will make up most of that, making the alignment at the LCA cams easy for the tech to adjust.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Where do you see -1.1° on there? Your Caster is at +1.1° not negative.

The red colour just means you are out of spec, the center line is the ideal spec. The writing in edges of the box show the acceptable range (which is technically that tiny green spot you see) that it should be within and the arrow is pointing to your measurement being way out of that, which is why the box is mostly red rather than green.

If you look at the Camber measurements you can see the "steps" in the box indicating that the measurement is within acceptable limits and that they are close to ideal.

 

[Cory619]

Where do you see -1.1° on there? Your Caster is at +1.1° not negative.

The red colour just means you are out of spec, the center line is the ideal spec. The writing in edges of the box show the acceptable range (which is technically that tiny green spot you see) that it should be within and the arrow is pointing to your measurement being way out of that, which is why the box is mostly red rather than green.

If you look at the Camber measurements you can see the "steps" in the box indicating that the measurement is within acceptable limits and that they are close to ideal.

I appreciate you correcting me on how I was reading this. I went to take the left front wheel off and all 6 lugs are stuck on the studs. The tire company I had my last rotation done at used an air gun and cross threaded and jammed the lugs on. So now the runner is sitting on a rack at Pep Boys with 3 of the studs stuck and they are going to cut the wheel to get the wheel off. Then the store has to order the wheel. So.....guess next weekend.

 

[Runn4est]

I appreciate you correcting me on how I was reading this. I went to take the left front wheel off and all 6 lugs are stuck on the studs. The tire company I had my last rotation done at used an air gun and cross threaded and jammed the lugs on. So now the runner is sitting on a rack at Pep Boys with 3 of the studs stuck and they are going to cut the wheel to get the wheel off. Then the store has to order the wheel. So.....guess next weekend.

Cut your wheel off to resolve stuck studs?? If they're really that stuck, just over torque them and snap them, then hammer them out. Why are they cutting your wheel?

 

[Cory619]

Cut your wheel off to resolve stuck studs?? If they're really that stuck, just over torque them and snap them, then hammer them out. Why are they cutting your wheel?

The stud ends that go into the hub were stripped off and pull out of the hub but wouldn't clear the hole in the wheel. They removed the entire assembly then used an air chisel to remove the 3 buggered studs. In the process my hub was damaged.

The wheel is fine.

I need new sway bar end links. Any recommendations on manufacturer?