Sounds like a pretty slick idea to me. You could even use a window switch so you could "aim" them from inside. Depending on what mounting options you have i think i would make the actuators (one on each side) point towards the front of the 4runner.
Thanks =)
The linear actuators are actually pretty powerful, so... so long as the "hinge" portion along with the lamp bar are sturdy enough, you'd only need an actuator on one side, or in the middle (less wiring, less weight, fewer things to go wrong). I've used some with 12" travel to build vertical lift gates for our driveway (last house on the left had everyone turning around in our driveway.. no more tearing up our asphalt). Those are rated at about 200lbs each. The shorter travel ones are about the same, which would be more than enough to push/pull a light bar.
The windows switch idea is exactly what I had in mind. Optionally, the actuators have adjustable built-in limit/travel switches, so you can also just have an up/down with a control kit they sell.
THIS is what I used to control my gates/actuators.
The same guy sells 2", 4", 8", 10" and 12" travel actuators...
You can also have a contact switch auto turn on the lights when the reach a certain point as the lights move up, and turn off when moving down.
The only problem I see with mounting the actuators pointing forward as opposed to how I have them in the drawing, is that the angle of force would be wrong on the leverage bar. You'd have to have one end the actuator mounted to the top side of the lights for that to work.... I think... I'm by no means a mechanical engineer lol. Granted that drawing sucks too...