Roof Rack vs. Cargo Box
- Thread starter Matt's4Runner
- Start date
MAD 4Runner
New member
Which Yakima Skybox do you have? The 16 or the 18? I'm thinking about picking one up this weekend.
Ducmonsta
New member
arb 2500
wfo9
New member
Roof rack comes in very handy on trips... You need a waterproof bag (or a box) if you want to carry non weatherproof stuff like soft luggage. I can carry an amazing amount of luggage up there. The downside to loading a bunch up top is that it can impact MPG at speed... It's actually easy to load/unload standing on the rear tire if you have someone else helping get it off the ground.
If you are actually going offroad - a hitch carrier... needs to be removed (as you will drag all over the place).
Here is a pic from a few years ago. I had 3 bikes inside, 2 on the rear hitch + a ton of gear. But there were only 2 of us in the vehicle.
It took an entire garage bay to hold all the stuff that was in the truck.
If you are actually going offroad - a hitch carrier... needs to be removed (as you will drag all over the place).
Here is a pic from a few years ago. I had 3 bikes inside, 2 on the rear hitch + a ton of gear. But there were only 2 of us in the vehicle.
It took an entire garage bay to hold all the stuff that was in the truck.
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Snowbasin, UT?
hayde89
New member
Definitely not SnowBasin. I would know I am at Snowbasin right now.
Do you have any info on the awning and how you mount it?
Ducmonsta
New member
Gobi makes a bracket specifically for awnings.
richardjones
New member
large cargo box on a stock roof-rack and rails?
2015 4r ltd with stock rack with rails
i was looking at cargo boxes but it looks (to me) that they will have to be mounted forward to clear the antenna...
the problem i see here is that anything but a small cargo box is going to have to be mounted quite far towards the back (of the cargo box) that it will have a moderate torque towards the front of the car
has anyone got experience here with some some of the large or xtra-lage thule cargo boxes?
thanks!
2015 4r ltd with stock rack with rails
i was looking at cargo boxes but it looks (to me) that they will have to be mounted forward to clear the antenna...
the problem i see here is that anything but a small cargo box is going to have to be mounted quite far towards the back (of the cargo box) that it will have a moderate torque towards the front of the car
has anyone got experience here with some some of the large or xtra-lage thule cargo boxes?
thanks!
Roof box. I've had both, but for 90% of uses the box is great. I guess if you were on a trail expedition with slow speeds and no worries of damaging gear on top or having someone nab your cargo, then a Gobi would fit the bill. But I would assume most times a box is going to be preferable. Just my opinion.
FishnCarz
New member
I had the giant, older Thule Adventurer box (about 90 inches long and 22 inches wide, 15 inches tall at the tallest point) and used it on a Ford Expedition, a Dodge Grand Caravan and most recently a Jeep XJ. Expect a noticeable drop in gas mileage. On the XJ I normally got about 19 - 20, with the box up it would drop to 14 - 15. The box extended over the top of the windshield so took the wind head on, if you could have it back a bit in the slip stream you'd do better, didn't notice as much of a difference with the Ford. With hatchbacks you need to make sure that the hatch opens completely without hitting the box. It sure is nice to have clean, dry storage that you can lock. We also used it to haul skis and boards, fishing rods, whatever. I sold it recently and will either get a smaller more aerodynamic box or a rack and bag system.
There is a picture in my album of the Jeep loaded down with the box, a bike rack, and a hitch basket when I was taking my oldest son to college years ago.
As always, YMMV.
Brian
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TowMeOut
New member
Kind of an old thread but there's lots of good info here. I've been going in circles with this since this past weekend camping trip. This time is was just me and one kid but I normally have both and ended up dragging a small utility trailer full of stuff.
I've got the stock "Sport" roofrack with the round side rails. I'm not sure on the max weight but it's pretty beefy. The crossbars do flex a bit when I've got them loaded down with my kayaks or other heavier items.
I picked up an X-Cargo Sport 20 cargo box a year ago off Craigslist for cheap. I believe it's a re-branded Thule. Problem is this thing is HUGE. It's nearly 6' long, 3' wide, and 20" high. I'm not sure if the drag is better/worse than a RTT but it has to be close. It's only weight rated for 100lbs so mostly bedding and clothes goes up there (bulky stuff).
This last trip I had a small folding table laying on a piece of shag carpeting lashed in between the roof rack rails. Onto this I strapped a big duffel bag with my bedding items in drybags inside. It was quite the Beverly Hillbillies arrangement but made plenty of room for me, the kid, fridge, and rest of our gear inside. I believe the big box would have overall been less hassle and wouldn't have interfered as much. A couple of the ratchet straps howled at anything over about 50. I stopped multiple times and put twists in the straps, tightened/loosened them, but nothing totall fixed the racket.
I've got the stock "Sport" roofrack with the round side rails. I'm not sure on the max weight but it's pretty beefy. The crossbars do flex a bit when I've got them loaded down with my kayaks or other heavier items.
I picked up an X-Cargo Sport 20 cargo box a year ago off Craigslist for cheap. I believe it's a re-branded Thule. Problem is this thing is HUGE. It's nearly 6' long, 3' wide, and 20" high. I'm not sure if the drag is better/worse than a RTT but it has to be close. It's only weight rated for 100lbs so mostly bedding and clothes goes up there (bulky stuff).
This last trip I had a small folding table laying on a piece of shag carpeting lashed in between the roof rack rails. Onto this I strapped a big duffel bag with my bedding items in drybags inside. It was quite the Beverly Hillbillies arrangement but made plenty of room for me, the kid, fridge, and rest of our gear inside. I believe the big box would have overall been less hassle and wouldn't have interfered as much. A couple of the ratchet straps howled at anything over about 50. I stopped multiple times and put twists in the straps, tightened/loosened them, but nothing totall fixed the racket.
None of you are having problems with the hatch door hitting your roof boxes when open?
I have the stock cross bars with a Thule roof box, besides the fact that the rails can't be shifted wide enough for the Thule to not bounce at speed, the my hatch door spoiler is badly scratched from the box.
This is exactly why I ordered a Gobi full rack, hopefully it gets here soon.
I have the stock cross bars with a Thule roof box, besides the fact that the rails can't be shifted wide enough for the Thule to not bounce at speed, the my hatch door spoiler is badly scratched from the box.
This is exactly why I ordered a Gobi full rack, hopefully it gets here soon.
Spudgey
New member
I have the same problem right now. I also have a large Thule roof box and I can't move my Thule Aeroblade crossbars far enough forward to have the box clear the hatch spoiler.
I didn't want to risk scratching up my rear spoiler so I ended up ordering a full length Prinsu rack which should give me the flexibility to move the box forward a couple more inches to clear the hatch. I should have the rack relatively soon here. I prefer to use the roof box for snowboard/ski gear storage. Plus it'd be nice to have it for camping trips.
I really wish our 5th gens had longer roof rails from the factory. Where they're positioned now is very limiting.
Toffees
Member
Some here (not sure if it was this thread or another) have been able to use the lift gate with a box attached, but it depends both on the box and the bars you're using. I have aeroblades also, and I think some of the slimmer bars can slide further forward. But I'm also running a 92" box (Force XXL) and I'm sure if I had a 74" Force L I'd have no issues.
Toffees
Member
I don't have the factory crossbars, but I've used a fully loaded Thule Force XXL on Thule Aeroblades and got no bouncing. I don't know what's causing your bounce, but it can probably be fixed by tweaking your setup.
The position of the OEM crossbars is what causes the bounce. It's because you need to push the front bar as forward as possible then use the rear most front mounting holes in the box so the box clears the hatch door.
By shifting the front bar forward and using the back set of mounting holes in the front, you limit the stability of the box because you can't get the crossbars wide enough.
