rotella oil
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SilverRidgeRunner1
Member
I knew someone once who Ran Rotella diesel synthetic and it did really well. The oil has a different type of cleaning agents that really cleaned his TR4 3.4 really well. We did some head work and dropped the pan to reseal it and the inside of the motor was spotless.
LittleCaesar
New member
T6 5w-40 is great stuff. It does well in hot climates. Don't worry too much about the color of the oil unless it is milky in color.
I run T5 10w-30 in all lawn and farm equipment. Good oil as well. My unlce has used such in his 98 f150 4.6 for thirteen years and at 342,000 miles the engine consumes no oil.
I run T5 10w-30 in all lawn and farm equipment. Good oil as well. My unlce has used such in his 98 f150 4.6 for thirteen years and at 342,000 miles the engine consumes no oil.
jgue467
Senior Member
Great stuff (along with an over-sized Pure One filter)!
I've been running it on my 01' 268k mile 4runner, 06' 70k 330ci bmw, 07' 145k prius, 03' 135k camry, honda mower, '98 (4.4k) & '10 (1.3k) 500 polaris sportsmans and sears riding mower 22 ho twin for about 4+ years with no issues like many on here.
Started using it with the polaris quads because they require 0-50 or 5-40, the 500s are rattly engines at best, it quieted both down significantly. So i figured it couldn't hurt the rest, they all like it!
Its still oil and will get 'dirty' looking after 5k miles on auto engines - my standard oci. The quads suprisingly come out looking golden translucent after about 500miles and 65 hours of use. Probably should go to 1000 miles boc on those. :cowboy:
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In short, with my very basic understanding of T6 and diesel oils in general as well as an attempt to answer the the question posted.
Pros - Increased wear protection via ZDDP.
Cons - Increased ZDDP (Zinc di something or other phosphate) also means that the over time the phosphate will coat the metals inside the catalytic converter and make them less efficient at doing their job. If emissions testing is an area of concern where you live it would behoove you to take it into consideration for long term use.
Matt
Pros - Increased wear protection via ZDDP.
Cons - Increased ZDDP (Zinc di something or other phosphate) also means that the over time the phosphate will coat the metals inside the catalytic converter and make them less efficient at doing their job. If emissions testing is an area of concern where you live it would behoove you to take it into consideration for long term use.
Matt
TheDurk
Elite Member
This. It is why they (the EPA) took ZDDP out of gasoline engine oils in the first place. I use Rotella 15W-40 in my 1966 gas Farmall 140 tractor (no cat) and all my mowers and my generator(likewise), but I would not use it in anything with a cat. The Diesel jocks on my tractor board are emphatic about this. Zinc 'poisons' cats.
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AZBub
New member
http://www.api.org/~/media/Files/Ce...iesel/Publications/MOM_GUIDE_ENGLISH_2013.pdf
T5 and T6 are CJ-4/SM. So you wouldn't want to be running it in a 5th gen pretty much.
T5 and T6 are CJ-4/SM. So you wouldn't want to be running it in a 5th gen pretty much.
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Jhelms
New member
You guys need to do more research before you spew up internet myths such as OH MY GOSH, YOUR CAT WILL FAIL IF YOU USE AN OIL WITH ZINC! OH LORDY IT WILL BE POISONED I SAY! Fact is, most all oil STILL CONTAINS ZINC, just at a reduced level compared to ages ago.
Hell, when most 3rd gen 4runners were purchased new - not much reduction was in place. Back then, they took it down into the 1200ppm which is where rotella is now and a really good spot to be. We ran those oils and we LIKED IT. Clearly no harm to our cats that are making 300-400K miles.
Just take a look at any blackstone or other oil test with modern oils. Zinc generally will be in the 800-1000+ with "reduced level oils" (some into the high 600's / low 800's if labeled SN or GF-5) with rotella around 900-1200. Not all that big of a difference especially when you compare to your favorite off the shelf oil.
One of the keys that make rotella an excellent choice and a bit different than most standard light duty vehicle oils is in its additive / cleaning package which is usually described as "rather old school". Ca and Mg are always at excellent levels. This is why your oil will come out black as night when switching to a good oil like this. At least it will for the first 5-6 changes as it cleans all the crap built up in your engine.
Bottom line:
- Oil with zinc present will not kill your cats / you are already running oil with zinc in your car right now. You just think you are not as the internet told you so
- T6 is an excellent choice for our cars in both hot and cold climates
- Is T6 or rotella the end all of oils? Best there is? Nope, LOTS of excellent oils available. I use rotella as it is dirt cheap, keeps an engine beautifully clean and test results are excellent with extended changes. Works beautifully in harsh situations / turbocharged vehicles and such. And I can pick it up at most any local store.
Hell, when most 3rd gen 4runners were purchased new - not much reduction was in place. Back then, they took it down into the 1200ppm which is where rotella is now and a really good spot to be. We ran those oils and we LIKED IT. Clearly no harm to our cats that are making 300-400K miles.
Just take a look at any blackstone or other oil test with modern oils. Zinc generally will be in the 800-1000+ with "reduced level oils" (some into the high 600's / low 800's if labeled SN or GF-5) with rotella around 900-1200. Not all that big of a difference especially when you compare to your favorite off the shelf oil.
One of the keys that make rotella an excellent choice and a bit different than most standard light duty vehicle oils is in its additive / cleaning package which is usually described as "rather old school". Ca and Mg are always at excellent levels. This is why your oil will come out black as night when switching to a good oil like this. At least it will for the first 5-6 changes as it cleans all the crap built up in your engine.
Bottom line:
- Oil with zinc present will not kill your cats / you are already running oil with zinc in your car right now. You just think you are not as the internet told you so
- T6 is an excellent choice for our cars in both hot and cold climates
- Is T6 or rotella the end all of oils? Best there is? Nope, LOTS of excellent oils available. I use rotella as it is dirt cheap, keeps an engine beautifully clean and test results are excellent with extended changes. Works beautifully in harsh situations / turbocharged vehicles and such. And I can pick it up at most any local store.
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You might not like to hear this, but oil is oil. There is conventional, and there is "synthetic," and thats it. It all meets the same standard, and the tiny differences are just marketing.
EXCEPT FOR THIS!! Diesel oil is made to a much lower standard. That is why it is cheaper. Diesel is a lubricant and diesel engines typically have much larger oil capacity. Running diesel oil in a gas engine is a terrible idea, and is one of those old wives tales that will never die.
EXCEPT FOR THIS!! Diesel oil is made to a much lower standard. That is why it is cheaper. Diesel is a lubricant and diesel engines typically have much larger oil capacity. Running diesel oil in a gas engine is a terrible idea, and is one of those old wives tales that will never die.
RedSled
New member
I'm gonna go ahead and call bullshit. Wtf
Usually, when people call bullshit, they have something to back it up with. Got anything?
T4R2014
Elite Member
Because there is no factual data to prove that it is made to a cheaper standard. Furthermore, I've seen plenty of UOA's of Rotella being used in gasoline engines with excellent results(at extended drain intervals as well). Subaru(it's great for turbos) and S2k(to reduce oil burning) people use it a lot as well and I've never heard of it ruining engines.
Oh, and the bigger jugs of diesel oils are only four quarts as opposed to gasoline oil jugs which are regularly five quarts. So, a jug of Rotella T6 sells for about $21, while a jug of the Shell-produced Pennzoil Platinum is about $23. What is the cheap oil now?
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The standard is lower, and the shear strength of diesel oils is lower. This is not an opinion or a secret, there is plenty of public data. You can start at bobistheoilguy.com if you want. How is the wild guess of someone more valid than the billions of dollars in research done by the automotive industry? Is it just because you used the wrong oil and your engine did not seize?
