rotella oil

[Jhelms]

The standard is lower, and the shear strength of diesel oils is lower. This is not an opinion or a secret, there is plenty of public data. You can start at bobistheoilguy.com if you want. How is the wild guess of someone more valid than the billions of dollars in research done by the automotive industry? Is it just because you used the wrong oil and your engine did not seize?

I have frequented bob for many, many years. WTF are you talking about? Diesel oils made to a LESSER standard? Good lord - better let the fleet guys know! They need to switch asap! HA! Guys on bob have been running rotella or other for ages with outstanding results and with recommendation (in both real world and test results) in their non diesel cars and trucks. Seriously man... is this a troll for comments? You show ME where an oil like T6 for example is made to a lower standard. Show me UOA's suggesting this. Wow...

You guys carry on - I am going to enjoy this thread when I get time to catch up in a few days lol opcorn:

 

[AZBub]

There are a lot of people who have been using it a long long time in their gasoline vehicles with zero problems. Personally I'll believe API ratings and their website of info before I believe opinionated hokey crap off the internet. To each their own.

Just don't pay a premium for high mileage oil. I think most of us could agree on that.

 

[T4R2014]

Just don't pay a premium for high mileage oil. I think most of us could agree on that.

High Mileage is just a marketing term. I'm not going to pay a premium on these products just for that, but if it is a superior product which is marketed under that name, I don't mind buying it. For example, Maxlife ATF is a high mileage product that is well-regarded.

 

[T5RUNNER]

Shell oil is fine. My point to the OP was that is that it is not much better or worse than any other brand so don't sweat it too much. I just didn't want him to listen to nonsense about using diesel oil.

Running the wrong type of oil is saying that you are smarter than the industry. As bob will tell you, using diesel oil / racing oil / oil additives / higher viscosity oil, is bullshit. There is no science behind it. And that is not trolling.

 

[T4R2014]

Running the wrong type of oil is saying that you are smarter than the industry. As bob will tell you, using diesel oil / racing oil / oil additives / higher viscosity oil, is bullshit. There is no science behind it. And that is not trolling.

FWIW, Toyota recommends different oil weights for the 5VZ is other parts of the world. Toyota specs oils weights such as 5W40 for areas like western Europe.

 

[RedSled]

Usually, when people call bullshit, they have something to back it up with. Got anything?

I am not going to do your homework for you, i have been reading about T6 for quite some time, and if you did the same you would not have posted that crap. And yes i also visited Bob the guy for years, and have not seen anyone have bad things to say about T6.

 

[T5RUNNER]

I am not going to do your homework for you, i have been reading about T6 for quite some time, and if you did the same you would not have posted that crap. And yes i also visited Bob the guy for years, and have not seen anyone have bad things to say about T6.

Shell and Toyota don't recommend it. But hey, redsled says that's bullshit, so go for it.

 

[kolelt]

I've read that rotella oil, diesal oil is better because big 18 wheelers go beyond 3-5k miles without oil changes. Therefore the oil has to be engineered to last longer in the engine. A oil change for a 18 wheeler vs us average Joe's is big difference. I have a buddy with Subaru sti 400hp using rotella. No problems.

 

[kolelt]

Here read this info/research,All About Motor Oil

Now can we see your bs statement with some info?

 

[T5RUNNER]

I've read that rotella oil, diesal oil is better because big 18 wheelers go beyond 3-5k miles without oil changes. Therefore the oil has to be engineered to last longer in the engine.

Its a false analogy. Oil fills with contaminates much faster than the oil itself breaks down, the oil you use can not change this. Big rigs use like 10 gallons of oil, so contaminates are diluted and build up more slowly.

Here read this info/research,All About Motor Oil

Now can we see your bs statement with some info?

Here it is in a nutshell.

Here is actual test data. You can enjoy it with your bs sandwich.

It would be like cutting your steak with a fork. You can probably do it. You have a buddy who recommends it. There are a bunch of people on the internet that swear it is the best ever. But there is a steak knife sitting on the table. Use the right tool for the job, and use the oil that was designed for your engine.

Incredible amounts of R&D go into optimizing oil for gas and diesel engines. They are similar but not interchangeable. The answer, as usual, is in your owners manual. Diesel oil does not meet the API standard for gas engines, it was not designed for gas engines, and it will void your warranty. Is that not reason enough?

 

[kolelt]

There's many people on here who run this oil in their cars. Including people I know personally. So in all reality it's not proven bad or good. It's people's opinions.

 

[AZBub]

Right from API. I figured enough is enough.

 

[AZBub]

This is directly from the owners manual on Oil requirements. Then here is the API rating showing that tech does advance as the years pass. Keep in mind that Rotella T5 is a CJ-4/"SM" oil.

Conclusion: Toyota "requirements" at the time (1999-2000 for my specific 3rd gen) required that 5w-30 API rated SJ oil be used. By using an SM rated oil you are using a more current standard.

Dishes done, I am tired. I have a good brain, I say things.

 

[GrassFed]

Pretty standard procedure to open up a can of worms anytime someone asks about something oil related. The reality is most folks don't know much about oil, even those who think they do.

One little addage that has stuck with me. Not exactly directly related to the topic on hand. But hey, let's face it, the sooner we change the subject the better off we'll all be. -- Most people change their oil too often and their transmission fluid too rarely

 

[T5RUNNER]

Yup, I'm not sure why this is so hard. If it has the gas engine cert., its good to go. If it is only the diesel cert., then its not. I'm not hating on Rotella, just trying to squash the old wives tale that diesel oil is somehow better for your gas engine.

 

[jgue467]

Yup, I'm not sure why this is so hard. If it has the gas engine cert., its good to go. If it is only the diesel cert., then its not. I'm not hating on Rotella, just trying to squash the old wives tale that diesel oil is somehow better for your gas engine.

The labels posted above disprove any and all of your and others negative statements. Use what oil you want but what you and others have said is Bad for 3rd gens is wrong.

Let it go and go on. Peace Out. :cowboy:

 

[SilverRidgeRunner1]

I'm not sure about better... I'm just saying when I pulled a 3.4 apart to do some work knowing it used Primarily diesel oil for 120,000miles of its life and it looks clean as can be inside I found it rather interesting. . . The story of its previous owner was something else. That engine tick 475,876 last month..

 

[AZBub]

Yup, I'm not sure why this is so hard. If it has the gas engine cert., its good to go. If it is only the diesel cert., then its not. I'm not hating on Rotella, just trying to squash the old wives tale that diesel oil is somehow better for your gas engine.

I don't think anyone was saying it's necessarily better. More that it's an option.

Let's move on to arguing about spark plugs now haha. Just kidding.

 

[TheDurk]

I don't think anyone was saying it's necessarily better. More that it's an option.

Let's move on to arguing about spark plugs now haha. Just kidding.

Especially the anti-seize issue.

I am still not persuaded about the cat damage issue. The fact that so-and-so, or even many so-and-so's, IS USING a high ZDDP oil in a high mileage engine is not dispositive. Few of these cars and trucks remain one-owner vehicles with continuous consistent lubrication schemes. The deleterious effects of zinc and phosphorous on catalytic efficiency build up slowly over time, and I suspect there are few cases of continuous use of Rotella T6, for example, for a fifteen-year plus period exceeding 200,000 miles driven in gas engines with cats similar to the 5VZ-FE Cali. cats like mine. The science behind the damaging effects of zinc and phosphorous on catalytic converters is robust and no one has disproved that.

A second factor concerns those of us blessed (well, cursed) with the 'California' two-cat emissions systems used in '99 and '00 in several states and all 4Runners in '01 and '02. These systems have efficiency monitors built into their ECM's that are notoriously hard to satisfy--"picky", if you wish. Many aftermarket cats have abbreviated life spans in these applications even without facing the negative effects of continuous high ZDDP usage and the factory cats cost in the thousands to replace.

I might be persuaded by all the positive anecdotal reports of T6 usage in gas engines in general, if I drove a different machine. But I have a 1999 Cali. 5VZ-FE which I have successfully maintained for 17 years and 180k on the factory cats using gas-spec synthetics since Day 1 and I really wonder if I could have done this if I had used a high ZDDP oil from the beginning.

There is probably no immediate damage for someone who starts using it now. But our cats are nearing end-of-life and there are lots of good gas spec synthetic oils out there. Why take the chance at accelerating their demise? They ain't cheap.

 

[AZBub]

I understand where you are coming from. My 2004 F-150 I have owned since new and I have strictly used Motorcraft filters and 5w20 oil. I see no need to switch. I have nearly 400k on it and it's as clean as a whistle. On the other hand My 4 runners original owner was kind of a putz with maintenance, he didn't know you could recharge the AC for example. It had Autolite old fashioned single electrode copper plugs in it for crying out loud. The Cat was actually one of the first things I had to replace as it was un-salvageable. At first I used mobile synthetic but my mechanic turned me on to Rotella after I argued with him with the same points many have used here. He called Bull Poo of course and suggested I use it to clean the engine out slowly. After I started using it I noticed some sludge and thick oil coming out at first drain. I have noticed this every time but there is progressively less. I can not doubt that it cleans out sludge very well without the use of the harsh additives and is helping me undo 16-17 years of sub par car care.

Will I always use it? Probably not. Hell I may end up using Motorcraft synthetic from Walmart cause it's way cheaper.