Rotor Resurface?? is it needed?

you have never had "warped" rotors, or pulsating brakes in the last 15 years?
impressive....


not if you want it done correctly.

with every pad change, you need to address the rotors also. either by resurfacing if they are thick enough, or replacing if they are not.

agreed. thanks. I get so tired of typing this out every couple months...


more expensive than having them resurfaced.

though, I saw some people above mentioned $30 each? that's insane. we charge $12.50. you aren't buying quality rotors for less than $15. hell, I doubt you can even get them for less than $30...

Advance Auto has a 20 off 50 or 40 off 100 coupon quite frequently (and occasionally have a 50 off 100 deal). I paid $27 a piece for my rotors ac. Granted, they are wear ever/car quest brand, but I weighed them and they were heavier than my factory rotors and had just as many cooling fins. Also got the platinum brake pads for $30 for the front set.
 
Even quality rotors aren't that expensive. For that price he could buy new rotors and pads off RockAuto and probably have a local shop do the labor and still come out cheaper.

I thought the dealer quotes the the OP were more than reasonable. The dealerships service department will all be more familiar with and properly equipped to do the service. A reputable dealer most likely won't cut any corners. And a Dealership is less likely to fold belly-up if sued. I known too many independents to do funny stuff when times get tuff. First the phone isn't answered then the signs change.
 
Here is a synopsis of the Toyota FSM procedure for inspecting and reworking brake rotors.
- remove pads
- measure rotors for thickness and runout
- if thickness meets spec and runout is <.002" (front) or <.0079" (rear), do nothing.
- if thickness does not meet spec, replace rotor
-if runout is excessive and bearings are not at fault, grind rotor using an "on-car" grinder to achieve proper runout.

Nothing is said about "resurfacing" the rotor as a standard procedure.

And, no, my brakes don't pulse or do other funny things. If they did, I'd fix them.
 
I would not re-surface the rotors. Re surfacing means they will grind down the rotors to make them smooth, the down side is that the rotors will now be thinner and pron to warping due to heat. Just change them out. I bought from this guy all 3 of my families car.

brakemotive76 on eBay

To me they have the better product. My friend bought from the another guy on ebay and his rotors warped in 3 months. Mine is almost more than 2 years and they still work great.
 
I thought the dealer quotes the the OP were more than reasonable. The dealerships service department will all be more familiar with and properly equipped to do the service. A reputable dealer most likely won't cut any corners. And a Dealership is less likely to fold belly-up if sued. I known too many independents to do funny stuff when times get tuff. First the phone isn't answered then the signs change.

You must not have any good independent shops near you. Id take my truck to my guy over the stealership any day of the week. If he's going to pay those prices he might as well upgrade to the 5th gen rotors/calipers. That's about what I paid for everything with new pads and labor.
 
350 for brake job is kinda cheap, i paid about 500+ for just stoptech slotted rotors and hawk lts pads, thats all front and back.
 
You must not have any good independent shops near you. Id take my truck to my guy over the stealership any day of the week. If he's going to pay those prices he might as well upgrade to the 5th gen rotors/calipers. That's about what I paid for everything with new pads and labor.

Yeah, but I like stock. By the way why do you have all that tuff on a 2WD drive vehicle. Do you have a locker and winch setup front and rear? LOL
 
Here is a synopsis of the Toyota FSM procedure for inspecting and reworking brake rotors.
- remove pads
- measure rotors for thickness and runout
- if thickness meets spec and runout is <.002" (front) or <.0079" (rear), do nothing.
- if thickness does not meet spec, replace rotor
-if runout is excessive and bearings are not at fault, grind rotor using an "on-car" grinder to achieve proper runout.

Nothing is said about "resurfacing" the rotor as a standard procedure.

And, no, my brakes don't pulse or do other funny things. If they did, I'd fix them.

Grinder? Never seen a brake rotor grinder...

Also Toyota requires us to use a ProCut on car lathe now for vehicles for a couple reasons.

Then again, no one really checks run-out any more, I made my opinion on the matter. If people want to go by empirical data vs. logical and scientific, then I have an amazing patch of shoreline property in Ohio to sell them.
 

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