Rough ride question

I agree - sorta.

I ran 5100's on my 2010 for 7 years and I loved them. I'd describe them as somewhat firmer than stock. No way did I think they were rough. Mine is a DD, and I thought they were a great improvement over stock.

@OP. Do you know what an E-rated tire is?

FYI:
Identification: The load range is identified by a letter of the alphabet, usually from A to F, which represents the ply rating and load pressure. A rating of "E" on the tire means the tire has a ply rating 10 and a load pressure of 80 psi.

Vehicle Type:
The "E" designation for the load rating of the tires is only used on light truck tires, not passenger tires. You can identify whether a tire is a passenger tire or a light truck tire by looking at the start of the service description on the sidewall: passenger tires start with a "P" and light truck tires start with an "LT."

Significance:
"E" signifies one of the highest load ranges available. You may need a tire rated this high if you carry heavy loads with your truck.


My $.02 is that your issue is 75% tire, 25% shocks.
This.

I have 5100s and 6100s but a dead ass soft sidewall on my Nittos.

If you want a smoochie tire get the Nittos Terra

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To: OP

As others have mentioned, it is mostly LT tires (load range and weight).
I would say at least 80% of the rough ride you feel comes from your LT tires, again load range and weight.

On the site note: in my over 20 years’ experience of using 4runners (from 2nd to current 5th gen) for long distance travel “overland” family SUV, hunting trips- that most of the time included off-road use (not rock climbing) and towing – all use included various weather conditions from 110 degrees Texas heat to single digit with snow and whiteouts in the mountains – I never had any issues with good quality P (AT) tires and never saw a need for LT, just my $ .02
 
To: OP

As others have mentioned, it is mostly LT tires (load range and weight).
I would say at least 80% of the rough ride you feel comes from your LT tires, again load range and weight.

On the site note: in my over 20 years’ experience of using 4runners (from 2nd to current 5th gen) for long distance travel “overland” family SUV, hunting trips- that most of the time included off-road use (not rock climbing) and towing – all use included various weather conditions from 110 degrees Texas heat to single digit with snow and whiteouts in the mountains – I never had any issues with good quality P (AT) tires and never saw a need for LT, just my $ .02

I think my first move is going to be getting the P285 falken wildpeaks. I'd rather risk slicing the weak sidewall on a rock during one of the 4 or 5 times a year i go wheeling than deal with a rough ride the other 360 days of the year.
And to be honest with you I'm not entirely sure if I have 5100s or 6112s, but I am pretty sure its the 5100s because i see only 4 settings.
 
so you aren't lifted anymore?

I'm thinking about switching to ICONs and P rated Falken Wildpeaks....
just not sure which to do first.

Nope, no lift or silly tires. Only thing is a 0.4" front suspension spacer, netting about 3/4" in front only.
I drove around with my 5100's for a few weeks before heavy tires & it's defiantly the shocks that rode rough. Next was the 58#, 10 ply, over sized BFG tires & finally the wheel spacers. Every mod I made made it ride worse.
Tires didn't affect ride comfort too much, just braking, acceleration & the handling was poor.
 
And to be honest with you I'm not entirely sure if I have 5100s or 6112s, but I am pretty sure its the 5100s because i see only 4 settings.

Seriously??? If you aren't sure whether or not you have 5100's or 6112's then you sure as heck don't need to switch suspension setups. Figure out what you have first and then you can go about diagnosing your problem.
 
the shocks are not the problem I have replaced my shocks with Bilsteins no ride problem better control and the highest quality last many years.

when you install the toyota spec tires not load E you will see how much better the ride will be. reason is the E tires are for a much heavier truck not these T4R light weights.E load is for a work truck. heavy load bed carrying etc... so you will feel every small road defect .
 
Just my two cents, I have Bilstein 5100s on the 0 setting, with OME 2885s in the front. I also have BFG KO2s at 275/70R17. The ride was dramatically increased over stock. I have a stiffer ride, but not bumpy by any means. Nose dive is practically nonexistent. Offroad performance is great at high speeds, and great at low speeds as well! By far the best mod I have done to my car. Also, I do have some negative rake, so after the holidays I will be raising the rear as well, Most likely with OME 2889s.

Is there a possibility that the shocks are blown? I only ask this because my friend just bought a used Tacoma with blown shocks, had a pretty rough ride, and his LCAs were actually angled upwards instead of level or slightly down. Hope this helps!
 
Just my two cents, I have Bilstein 5100s on the 0 setting, with OME 2885s in the front. I also have BFG KO2s at 275/70R17. The ride was dramatically increased over stock. I have a stiffer ride, but not bumpy by any means. Nose dive is practically nonexistent. Offroad performance is great at high speeds, and great at low speeds as well! By far the best mod I have done to my car. Also, I do have some negative rake, so after the holidays I will be raising the rear as well, Most likely with OME 2889s.

Is there a possibility that the shocks are blown? I only ask this because my friend just bought a used Tacoma with blown shocks, had a pretty rough ride, and his LCAs were actually angled upwards instead of level or slightly down. Hope this helps!

If you're not running extra weight in the rear I would not suggest getting OME 2889's in the rear. That coil I believe is 40% stiffer than stock at 260lbs. I would recommend getting Dobinsons, Sway-A-Away, or Icon rear springs.
 
If you're not running extra weight in the rear I would not suggest getting OME 2889's in the rear. That coil I believe is 40% stiffer than stock at 260lbs. I would recommend getting Dobinsons, Sway-A-Away, or Icon rear springs.

Thanks for the input, I do plan on adding a rear bumper with tire carrier, and I carry my tool box and other miscellaneous items with me, but its not more than 200lbs max. It may be worth it to mention I have full RCI Steel Skids, and my rock sliders are on the way. That weight is not on the rear though, so the spring rate shouldn't be dependent on that weight, right?
 
Update: Sorry I missed some of your replies and sorry for not knowing the difference between 5100s and 6112s at the time. I now know all about it.

I just found a post in the FJ forum where a guy had the same issue as me trying to run LT285 TGG2s on his 5100 setup. Rough ride until he switched to icons and it made a huge difference.

So now I’m torn between BOSS 2.0 or 6112s for suspension and/or swapping my tires out for P285 Falkens which are only 4lbs lighter than the nittos but have a softer side wall.


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[MENTION=51717]clemsonxplorer[/MENTION]

I don't know anything about the Boss 2.0, but if the 2.0 in Boss 2.0 means 2.0" shock, then I would without a doubt be looking at a 6112.

6112 is a 60mm (2.36") shock, it's considered a large body performance shock. Lots of value there, and should be considered a middle ground before getting into brands like ICON/Fox/King who make 2.5" shocks.

I also find the 6112 is overall a lot more plush, well damped, and overall a smoother shock than a 5100. Might be right up your alley.
 
[MENTION=51717]clemsonxplorer[/MENTION]

I don't know anything about the Boss 2.0, but if the 2.0 in Boss 2.0 means 2.0" shock, then I would without a doubt be looking at a 6112.

6112 is a 60mm (2.36") shock, it's considered a large body performance shock. Lots of value there, and should be considered a middle ground before getting into brands like ICON/Fox/King who make 2.5" shocks.

I also find the 6112 is overall a lot more plush, well damped, and overall a smoother shock than a 5100. Might be right up your alley.

I agree and think I am going to go that route. I wasn’t impressed with the BOSS 2.0 over the 5100s on my FJ. I had to remove the sway bar to really enjoy them.
 
This is weird to me or just maybe coming from Tacoma's ! 51s 2.5 setting w/2014 fj springs cooper atp lt psi45 ? Sure it's not bad Texas roads ? Nv ones ain't much better , I mean it's not a cadillac denalli but damn !
 
I have suddenly noticed that the ride on my 2017 4Runner is very bumpy.Noticing every little imperfection in the road and the whole vehicle vibrates.

This started after my last oil and tire rotation service at the dealer.

Checked the tire pressure with two different gauge's and they are +/- 32 PSI. The tread has still got around 20k miles left.

Tire alignment seems fine as it is not pulling to either side. I have read about this issue elsewhere and they said to balance the tires properly. Well, if the tires were not balanced properly, then I should notice it no matter what road I drive in. But on smooth highways the vehicle runs perfect sometimes even doing 80 mph +.

Once you hit a rough road, which is not really rough with potholes or anything but the top of the road has worn off revealing the gravel, then the bumpyness gets annoying.

One more thing I noticed is, when you are turning your vehicle into a parking lot, there is squealing noise from the tires.Hear it from the rear.

What could this be?
 
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