Thanks! I know man, everytime I got on the freeway, it was driving me crazy haha.
Run it til it dies or replace it?
- Thread starter 99Runnr
- Start date
Thanks! I know man, everytime I got on the freeway, it was driving me crazy haha.
GangsterOfLove
New member
Fantastic! :frog:
fblainen11
New member
I got frustrated for you just reading through this thread. Like a good thriller/mystery movie. Glad you got it fixed.
So, interested in selling that completely updated 4wd 3rd gen? Ha..jk, but seriously. Selling it?
So, interested in selling that completely updated 4wd 3rd gen? Ha..jk, but seriously. Selling it?
I've mentioned before on this forum, I am a truck guy 50%. My real passion is throwing gears and going fast. I mean, I have a shifter tattoo on my arm. This truck has been fun, I love it, but money is rarer then anything right now for me. I've been eyeballing IS300's for a daily/build project. I built a 1000 whp foxbody several years ago, I just can't commute around in that realistically. Too much attention and hectic. So I want to mix it up some.
I just picked up a friends build project off him. Turbo setup and some other goodies. So between that and driving a couple of them, I am going to take on a new project as this truck has been for me.
It is completely gone through. You can see my posts from the last several months. I've done nothing but wrench on it almost. Fixing shit that didn't need it, reading on the common issues and quirks, it's all there. Tundra brakes to fuel filters, lower balljoints, you name it. If the right buyer comes along, or the right car for trade, I'm waiting.
Scramble
New member
I had the same vibration & it was the driveshaft. Specifically the double cardan joint (not rebuildable). It felt tight while on the truck but had play when disconnected. I ended up going with with a Tom Woods custom 3" DS with rebuildable 1310 u-joints. Cheaper, stronger & more serviceable than stock.
Scramble, how much does one of these run?
Scramble
New member
Mine was around $419. But they start under $300 A stock one from Toyota is $600 & only 2.5" where the TW's is 3". ( You have a choice of diameters) but the 3" doesn't contact the gas tank skid or anything else underneath. The u-joints are their own "Gold" brand & guaranteed for life. Even if one fails & messes up your DS, they will replace the DS too. Customer Service was awesome, they build them to order & they shipped it out in 2 days.
You could buy a used one from the junkyard but it who knows how long it will last. Mine will out live me & the truck. :becky:
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist
Thanks!
Yeah I went the junkyard route (for $20, who can argue) after a local driveshaft shop screwed up the balance on my original shaft, and installed a nasty Neapco u joint in it to boot.
Scramble
New member
Cant argue with $20.
That sucks, the TW Gold u-joints are only $25 & supposedly indestructible.
marshallnoise
New member
Interesting story on the drive shaft. I am chasing down something similar. I first thought it was wheel bearings. But I have been reading that u-joints cause some funkiness too.
IBallEngineer
New member
So you see, the driveshaft is balanced as an assembly, I'm sure you knew that. But that is why I said the fact that two business' looked at it meant nothing to me. Anyway, good job!
It was out of the truck for hands on inspection of u-joints and balancing.
I won't ask questions or complain, just glad the shit is over with. Get my retrofit's this weekend and I'm DONE spending money for awhile. Just gonna drive the tires off it and enjoy it now.
Bstrom
New member
Here's another coupla guesses - differential mounts? Bent wheel(s)? Rear end alignment?
FYI If you put poly mounts in a Miata diff the rear end vibrates. Loose or tight, you feel the driveline more with worn or performance parts. Assuming the front end is innocent, you've got something loose enough to make movement.
PS my 99 Limited has 184k and rides perfect. It's not mileage...
FYI If you put poly mounts in a Miata diff the rear end vibrates. Loose or tight, you feel the driveline more with worn or performance parts. Assuming the front end is innocent, you've got something loose enough to make movement.
PS my 99 Limited has 184k and rides perfect. It's not mileage...
Vacations over. Same shit going on again :AK47:
Just pulled my driveshaft. I'll get the u joints replaced, driving it to a driveline place to see if they can put hands on the transfer case and differential to give me their .02
I'm looking at my transmission mount now as well. It looks like others online I see pics of. Except people in conclusively suspect the mounts it seems, never to update or verify.
I have zero slop in the pinion flange. A small amount at the transfer case flange. Nothing up and down. No flex in the flanges indicating loose mounts. The vibration is kind of a resonating/pulsing noise. It slightly increases and decreases in tone while maintaining a steady speed/rpm.
Engine load plays no part in the vibration. I tried getting on the gas a bit in 4th at 60+ and no difference in vibrations. Starting to maybe seem like carrier bearings or something. I've read myself in circles but there is undoubtedly something pissed. I have got to fix this before something else in the chain develops an issue from it.
Perhaps the new info (pulsing tone while holding steady vibrations, no movement in flanges, no difference with different load bearing) will give someone insight to help me. The driveshaft is good to go unless 5 of 5 people including my inspections tell me incorrectly.
Just pulled my driveshaft. I'll get the u joints replaced, driving it to a driveline place to see if they can put hands on the transfer case and differential to give me their .02
I'm looking at my transmission mount now as well. It looks like others online I see pics of. Except people in conclusively suspect the mounts it seems, never to update or verify.
I have zero slop in the pinion flange. A small amount at the transfer case flange. Nothing up and down. No flex in the flanges indicating loose mounts. The vibration is kind of a resonating/pulsing noise. It slightly increases and decreases in tone while maintaining a steady speed/rpm.
Engine load plays no part in the vibration. I tried getting on the gas a bit in 4th at 60+ and no difference in vibrations. Starting to maybe seem like carrier bearings or something. I've read myself in circles but there is undoubtedly something pissed. I have got to fix this before something else in the chain develops an issue from it.
Perhaps the new info (pulsing tone while holding steady vibrations, no movement in flanges, no difference with different load bearing) will give someone insight to help me. The driveshaft is good to go unless 5 of 5 people including my inspections tell me incorrectly.
Could be something here. The last two sets of tires I purchased from Discount Tire could not be balanced properly. They pro rated the first set, but the new set I've had balanced at 3 different shops ( one toyota shop twice ) and they still can't balance them.
I would tend to see that point, had the prior set of tires not been brand new as well
I had some other tires when I bought the truck and then bought BFG's when the tire had a wobble. It may have, but it wasn't causing my issues. I am dropping the truck off somewhere this afternoon for a diagnostic with the driveshaft removed.
I don't care what it is at this point. It's all easier to buy and replace compared to this shit has been so far.
GangsterOfLove
New member
opcorn:Well **** me runnin! Quite the day for my truck.
Had drive shaft balanced as both joints wereplaced again verified good. Picked it up an installed drive shaft. Immediately drove 110 miles round trip to go get an addicted offroad bumper (score) and VIBRATION FREE. Finally fixed the damn thing.
Seriously felt like I was going 100 mph being able to drive past 60 again.
Had drive shaft balanced as both joints wereplaced again verified good. Picked it up an installed drive shaft. Immediately drove 110 miles round trip to go get an addicted offroad bumper (score) and VIBRATION FREE. Finally fixed the damn thing.
Seriously felt like I was going 100 mph being able to drive past 60 again.
