Running boards off! Now rust... :/

[00_4runner]

Hey guys just took off my running boards about a week ago and now I have a few days off to get some work done. Its a Chicago car and even though the body is flawless there is rust hidden away in some some spots. Underneath the running boards is one of those spots. I just ordered sliders and mudflaps and I need to fix the rust in order to prevent it from spreading once those two are on. I attached a picture to show what kind of rust I'm talking about. Now is where I need some second opinions... First off Im gonna sand the rust off as best I can in order to get to as much bare metal as possible. I dont really think priming is necessary because Im gonna use some rustoleum rattle can truck bed lining and Ive had good results with it in the past. Should I spray it with some rust converter too in order to make sure the rust stays away? And what do you guys think of sanding it down to bare metal and covering it up with the truck bed liner? Any other methods?

Thanks in advance!

 

[00_4runner]

Anyone? 91 views and no response haha.

 

[Maritimer]

I'm doing the exact same thing as you are planning right now. I think it's about the only option, even though I'm not an expert.

I also took the opportunity to remove my fender flares and to sand and paint under them where there was a bit of rust (can't see the paint, so it is pure and invisible protection.

I took the front fender off so I could get the metal behind it. It gives me a chance to clean up in there, service things, and protect them with rust check spray. The brackets around the intake were quite rusty because the salt spray that gets sucked in that way.

I'm also dealing with a bit of trouble around the door bottoms and the step in at the same time.

Basically once the paint dries I'm going to spray a whole lot of rust check oil into the rocker panels because all those overlapping metal seams along the bottom of the body are east to paint on the outside layer, but a prime area for rust to live on the inside.

I also used some of the truck bed lining to spruce up the visible stuff on the underside of the truck now that the running boards are off.

 

[Singtoe]

I have some bads news for you, Your 4runner has terminal illness. It is called Oxidationalastoritis. :naughty: You might have caught it in time though. Your prognosis is to remove all the rust, re-prime and apply paint .

You know that there will probably have rust behind your flares too.

I think that you can use a sand blaster to remove the rust, prime it and maybe take it to a truck bed lining shop and have a gray or silver bed liner sprayed on your rocker panels. This should offer future protection from rocks, sand and salt spray.

 

[maxspeed96ct]

I'm going through the same thing same spot, I thought it was just alittle surface rust . Until I started sanding and me end result was a hole about the size of a half dollar.


I sanded it all from end to end, just tapped of the bottoms of the doors .Gave it to nice coats of masterseriers silver. And now I'm going to coat it with plasti dip or bedliner...

Just waiting for some free time so I can also clean up my frame and paint it aswell .

 

[fightman80]

Hey man,

I have a similar issue with my inner door jams. I use an angle grinder with a wire wheel to strip away all the rust. Then apply some rust paint, then coat it with body color paint, and then clear coat.

On a side note, I've re-painted my rocker panels once (because of all the road rash) using the paint and clear coat. Make sure you mask off everywhere you don't want paint, and you will have a flawless finish!

Bedliner will look good too, but if you want to keep the stock color, try Dupli-color spray cans......they match up pretty good, and people will never know you painted it!

 

[00_4runner]

I have some bads news for you, Your 4runner has terminal illness. It is called Oxidationalastoritis. :naughty: You might have caught it in time though. Your prognosis is to remove all the rust, re-prime and apply paint .

You know that there will probably have rust behind your flares too.

I think that you can use a sand blaster to remove the rust, prime it and maybe take it to a truck bed lining shop and have a gray or silver bed liner sprayed on your rocker panels. This should offer future protection from rocks, sand and salt spray.

Oh god what a terrible condition it is lol. I'm going to use a wire wheel drill bit and sand it down as best as I can. Maybe some rust converter primer. Since this part of the truck is fairly hidden I don't mind painting a line from wheel well to wheel well since most people won't even see it. Is removing the fender flares tough? I took the flares off my 99 trooper to paint them and I broke all the clips that held it inside ad well as some clip mounts. It was a huge pita and I don't want to go through that again. As far as taking it to a truck bed liner place won't that cost a lot more? I may be wrong but not sure if its worth it.

Also as far as inside the fender, looking at the pic I posted I'm thinking it would be a bad idea to try to remove the fender cuz the two bolts on the bottom as shown in picture are possibly rusted beyond repair. My worry is if I take them off those bolts will be history

 

[beerstash]

Sand the area down or don't worry about it and use POR 15 on it. Works great!

 

[Maritimer]

I just broke those two bolts off about 30 minutes ago. ****ing driver's side always gets the most rust because the roads are salt coated down the center the worst. I just drilled two new holes about a 1/4 inch off and put new bolts. I figure holes are nothing compared to rust damaged body.

Anyway, you want to get behind that fender, as the more rust you can get the better.

 

[COShadow]

I'm not sure about the body panels. For the frame however, I would sand as much rust off as possible, then use some metal "etching" chemical (Metal Ready by POR-15). I'm not a fan of the POR-15 paint because for me it flaked off after a year. Instead, I would use Rustoleum rusty and clean metal primer (definitely use these primers), and follow up with black Rustoleum. I did this on the entire rear section of the frame (crossmembers and all) and it still looks fantastic over a year later. This coating has been bulletproof.

 

[chitown40]

Sandblast or wire-wheel.

Etch the metal with some some of acid product. Acid neutralizes rust.

Encapsulate. Rust-bullet or POR-15 followed by a top-coat of your choice.

Plasti-dip not such a great idea in that location.

The rust is actually inside the pinch welds as well, so it will come back, the question is when.

 

[00_4runner]

Sandblast or wire-wheel.

Etch the metal with some some of acid product. Acid neutralizes rust.

Encapsulate. Rust-bullet or POR-15 followed by a top-coat of your choice.

Plasti-dip not such a great idea in that location.

The rust is actually inside the pinch welds as well, so it will come back, the question is when.

Probably going to be doing this today, any recommendations on said acid rust neutralizing product?? :hungry:

 

[chitown40]

Naval Jelly, Extend, or a good self-etching primer. Lots of decent products out there. Just make sure you use one and follow the instructions carefully.

Do this before you top coat it. You can put 15 layers of paint on, but if the surface rust isn't taken care of.... welll... you'll just be doing it again shortly.

IH8RUST too. :bat:

 

[fightman80]

Another thing you can do, after doing the paint work, apply "Fluid Film" or just regular all-purpose grease to the pinch weld.....It's under the truck, nobody see's that anyway........

 

[T4R2014]

I would remove the fender just to make sure there's nothing else hidden under there. Sand off the rust and prime and paint. I like Rustoleum but Krylon and Duplicolor should all work fine.

 

[Singtoe]

I like POR-15 - It isn't UV resistant so a top coat of something else will be needed.

I is pretty thin too. I would pour it on the pinch woeld and let it work its way into all the nook and crannies.

 

[00_4runner]

Decided to buy liquid rust converter from rustoleum since it goes on clear and only turns the rust black unlike the rattle can version which is black to begin with. I've had good results in the past so ill see how it goes. I decided not to take the flare off cuz after glancing into the fender the only rust is at the very bottom so ill pour some converter into there and call it a day. I'll post pics of the finished product hopefully by tomorrow night. On another maintenance note I went to Walmart and bought 100 bucks in detailing items
clay bars, car wash, microfiber everything, etc. Can't wait to clean her again! Haha.

 

[maxspeed96ct]

I just used some masterseries silver, like the way it went on . Ill keep you guys updated on how it holds up .

 

[CyberRon]

Running boards and rust - yes or no

Just read through the posts...

I am considering a 2013 SR5 4WD. I live in Western PA - same salt issues as others.

My questions concerning the rust issues:
If you had to do it over again, would you put running boards on the vehicle?

Should I get factory running boards on my new 4Runner or not?

Will be purchasing in a month or so...

Thanks for any advise! Can't wait to get mine! :driving:

 

[etc.]

Just read through the posts...

I am considering a 2013 SR5 4WD. I live in Western PA - same salt issues as others.

My questions concerning the rust issues:
If you had to do it over again, would you put running boards on the vehicle?

Should I get factory running boards on my new 4Runner or not?

Will be purchasing in a month or so...

Thanks for any advise! Can't wait to get mine! :driving:

He had the rust prior to removing the running boards.

If you have running boards, they can act like vehicle length mudflaps minimumizing the area salty slush can get to. Then on the other hand you create areas for the salt to sit or for the rust to go unnoticed.