Rust and RCI skid plates

[trickbiker121]

The front bar under the radiator is very rusted and wanted to know of some ideas to stop the rust from getting worse and maybe even make it look nicer if possible. I also want to replace the current skid plate with the RCI skid plate and maybe even get the transmission and transfer case plates as well. Is the installation of these plates truly an easy swap with no new mounting holes needed? I will check the mounting points for transmission and transfer case plates for any damage or rust since it has been exposed for over 10 years.

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[BlackWorksInc]

All the skidplates mount to existing frame holes. So as long as your original skid plate threads are good, the RCI ones should bolt up fine.

 

[Yota_Noob]

As stated above. I have the engine as well as the filler plate and they bolt right up. They supply hardware for the install (longer bolts, spacers etc) but I just went to lowes and got some stainless steel hardware as I didn't want to deal with any rust

 

[trickbiker121]

Perfect thank you guys for your response. I will order the front skid plate and the filler plate first thing tomorrow morning.

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[AuSeeker]

Clean all the rust with a good stiff wire brush and/or a drill with a wire brush wheel, make sure you wear safety glasses then spray all the areas liberally with Fluid Film.

FLUID FILM | Powerful Corrosion Protection & Lubrication

 

[trickbiker121]

Clean all the rust with a good stiff wire brush and/or a drill with a wire brush wheel, make sure you wear safety glasses then spray all the areas liberally with Fluid Film.

FLUID FILM | Powerful Corrosion Protection & Lubrication

Thx. Next weekend I will try the wire brush first and if it does not help as much then move to the drill brush. I just purchased the RCI steel bare metal full skid package but now having second thoughts of not going with aluminum. Any one currently own the steel version?

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[CXS]

Steel is the way to go, just be thorough when painting them.

 

[AuSeeker]

Thx. Next weekend I will try the wire brush first and if it does not help as much then move to the drill brush. I just purchased the RCI steel bare metal full skid package but now having second thoughts of not going with aluminum. Any one currently own the steel version?

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I would recommend using both the brush and a drill brush, the drill will make the easier to get to places much faster but you will need the brush to get into the tighter areas, they also make a brush for the drill that is pointed and not a wheel to help with the tight areas.

The steel plates will be much stronger, but the aluminum won't rust, if you go with the steel just make sure you coat them on both sides with the Fluid Film or paint them very well using a good rust prohibitive primer first and then several coats of the color of your choice, I would also recommend to use the Fluid Film at least once a year if not more often on everything you can get access to underneath, when it starts looking dried out spray it again!!

 

[trickbiker121]

That is one reason I wanted to go with the aluminum because it will not rust. Since I will be applying Fluid Film to current rust spots it wouldn't be to hard to add it to the steel skids before installing.

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[Runn4est]

That is one reason I wanted to go with the aluminum because it will not rust. Since I will be applying Fluid Film to current rust spots it wouldn't be to hard to add it to the steel skids before installing.

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I would also suggest wiring it down as much as you can, and then either hitting it with rust converter and/or rust encapsulator THEN use fluid film. I love that stuff. I just intstalled an RCI Steel skid and painted it with chassis paint then hit all the bolt areas and seams with FF.

 

[jfry008]

The steel plates will be much stronger, but the aluminum won't rust, if you go with the steel just make sure you coat them on both sides with the Fluid Film or paint them very well using a good rust prohibitive primer first and then several coats of the color of your choice, I would also recommend to use the Fluid Film at least once a year if not more often on everything you can get access to underneath, when it starts looking dried out spray it again!!

For the skids, I don't recommend running bare steel and fluid film only. I think painting and maybe applying fluid film is your best bet.

For the present rust, these rust remover wheels work really well at removing rust. I like them better than wire wheels, as far a wheels are concerned.

Also, I would remove the rust...clean the area...paint. Then wait a few weeks and come back to the painted areas to touch up.
In my limited experience of painting my undercarriage, I found that removing all of the rust gives the best final results when painting. Easier said than done.

 

[Diamond_D]

I have the RCI steel skids, they've held up very well for the 2yrs I've had them. I got them in bare steel and cleaned them up well with acetone, then did a few coats of Rustoleum self etching primer, followed by a few coats of High Performance Enamel. Seems to be doing well, and easy to touch up at the end of the season wherever I've scraped off the paint on a rock, etc.

 

[DZNUTS]

Those 3M wheels are the best for rust removal. A wire wheel will take of metal as well, those wheels are specially designed NOT to do that. They come in green, red, and brown. Check which 'grit' is best for your needs


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[trickbiker121]

Thank you for the replies. I will go to Lowe's today and look for a 3M rust remover wheel and fluid film. I have also modified my order to include powder coating just to be safe on rust prevention.

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[trickbiker121]

I plan to install these skid plates on Saturday. Do you recommend using thread locker so that the bolts don't become loose?

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[JustinB]

I plan to install these skid plates on Saturday. Do you recommend using thread locker so that the bolts don't become loose?

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Quite the opposite, I used anti-seize so they don't get stuck/rusted in there like the old ones.

Someone may disagree, I haven't had an issue yet though.

 

[Folsom4Rnr]

I plan to install these skid plates on Saturday. Do you recommend using thread locker so that the bolts don't become loose?

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Just installed mine Monday night. Easy enough I suppose, but I did it by myself :redbrick: with some jack stands (and some cursing). I suggest getting a buddy to help lift and hold them in place... would have made it much easier and gone a lot faster. I didnt use thread locker (instructions did not indicate needing to). But I do plan to check all the bolts after a few days to make sure they're still in tight and double check my work.

 

[trickbiker121]

Just installed mine Monday night. Easy enough I suppose, but I did it by myself :redbrick: with some jack stands (and some cursing). I suggest getting a buddy to help lift and hold them in place... would have made it much easier and gone a lot faster. I didnt use thread locker (instructions did not indicate needing to). But I do plan to check all the bolts after a few days to make sure they're still in tight and double check my work.

Did you torque them down to the oem specs or until you felt it was tight enough?

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[Runn4est]

Did you torque them down to the oem specs or until you felt it was tight enough?

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I made mine tight enough, haha. Idk, but I've wheeled since the install and it's still tight. I also sprayed with Fluid film prior to threading to help prevent seizing.

 

[Folsom4Rnr]

Did you torque them down to the oem specs or until you felt it was tight enough?

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Yeah, good question... Like [MENTION=124959]Runn4est[/MENTION], I just tightened them up... hoping it's enough as i dont *yet* have a torque wrench.