RUST BELT - Rear Axle Housing Swap

[Asaspades93]

I'm doing this on friday:wacko:

 

[Dewyz1100]

Best of luck to you both...!

 

[MStudt]

Make that 3 of us. I just picked up an e-locker housing for $100 off of a limited. Now I'm searching for a good deal on the 3rd member, harness, computer, and switch. Still have tons of small parts to buy. I also need to build new UCA's, LCA's, and pan hard.

 

[Asaspades93]

I pulled my doner axle out of a junkyard runner in about 45 minutes so I'm hopeful. I didnt have to remove the 3rd member, and I just bent the shocks out of the way, but it was easier than I thought. I do have new bearings bring pressed into the side that kept blowing out so I'm very hopeful haha. I have 2 full days to work on it, but I hope to have it finished in one. I do appreciate the write up and I can add pictures if i remember

 

[Scramble]

I'm confused? Why would you need a coil spring compressor to remove the rear springs? Disconnect the shocks, pan hard bar & 4 control arms & the axle drops? Right?

 

[thegipper]

Scramble, this is a pretty old post but good question. I'm about to do an axle swap on friday and I see no reason why you would ever need a spring compressor. I didn't need one when I installed my 906's.

My plan for axle removal:

Secure truck on 6 ton jack stands
remove spare tire
remove rear wheels
disconnect brake line at T fitting about differential
disconnect parking brake cables
remove pan hard bar
remove sway bar (maybe just end links?)
remove upper control arm bolts (axle side)
remove lower control arm bolts (axle side)
secure axle with jack
remove lower strut bolts
remove axle

What am I forgetting or what is wrong with my order of operation?

 

[Scramble]

Scramble, this is a pretty old post but good question. I'm about to do an axle swap on friday and I see no reason why you would ever need a spring compressor. I didn't need one when I installed my 906's.

My plan for axle removal:

Secure truck on 6 ton jack stands
remove spare tire
remove rear wheels
disconnect brake line at T fitting about differential
disconnect parking brake cables
remove pan hard bar
remove sway bar (maybe just end links?)
remove upper control arm bolts (axle side)
remove lower control arm bolts (axle side)
secure axle with jack
remove lower strut bolts
remove axle

What am I forgetting or what is wrong with my order of operation?

I like pulling up old threads & doing research. Maybe these noobs will do the same. (see brake question thread! LOL)

Your list sounds good to me, I also disconnected my ABS lines. There are plugs near the top of the shock towers. Also remove the swaybar, I sanded off the rust & painted mine with Eastwood rust converter & will be doing that to my links & new axle housing.. It was also in the way of me loosening the Diff nuts. You also might want to remove the drums to make the housing lighter. I'm removing my axle Sat morning. I have it half way removed, just need to do the brake line, the 4 links & pan hard.

 

[Scramble]

Scramble, this is a pretty old post but good question. I'm about to do an axle swap on friday and I see no reason why you would ever need a spring compressor. I didn't need one when I installed my 906's.

My plan for axle removal:

Secure truck on 6 ton jack stands
remove spare tire
remove rear wheels
disconnect brake line at T fitting about differential
disconnect parking brake cables
remove pan hard bar
remove sway bar (maybe just end links?)
remove upper control arm bolts (axle side)
remove lower control arm bolts (axle side)
secure axle with jack
remove lower strut bolts
remove axle

What am I forgetting or what is wrong with my order of operation?

Did you have a problem getting the axle straight? Mine doesn't look perpendicular to the frame. Maybe I should put it back up on stands & re-do the upper & lower control arm bolts. Or just go get it aligned? Also my rear tires chirp when making a sharp turn. I think my locker might be in the locked position? I haven't wired it up yet.

 

[thegipper]

I ended up not swapping out the axle assembly because the donor one was partially damaged from the wrecked truck I bought. I just swapped the 3rd member (it had a eaton trutrac in it).

Sorry, I can't be of more help on your issue. Never heard of the issue you are having but I would just recheck everything to make sure you didn't miss something.

Good luck Brah....

 

[zoombyu86]

For the rear axle not being straight, did you tighten the upper and lower arms in the air or on the ground under its own weight? I think I've read that those should be done on the ground. Maybe that's the issue?

 

[Scramble]

For the rear axle not being straight, did you tighten the upper and lower arms in the air or on the ground under its own weight? I think I've read that those should be done on the ground. Maybe that's the issue?

I did it up in the air before the tires went on. I have to do the drum brakes on Sat so I'll redo them too. Thanks.

 

[zoombyu86]

I did it up in the air before the tires went on. I have to do the drum brakes on Sat so I'll redo them too. Thanks.

No problem. That's something I remember reading when I lifted mine but it was for the front lower shock mount and control arms. I assume it's the same for the rear.

 

[Schuller]

Rear axel elocker rust

Anyone know if I can take a non e locker axel with abs and install into my existing 2002 runner with elocker?

Dilemma:
My runner has east coast rust on most everything. Runs great stops etc. but my rear brake drum housing and shroud have rust holes in the bottom. It’s got an e locker and I want to know if a non e locker rear Axel will “plug and play” in a sense to the axel I have already? Thanks in advance!

 

[T4R2014]

Anyone know if I can take a non e locker axel with abs and install into my existing 2002 runner with elocker?

Dilemma:
My runner has east coast rust on most everything. Runs great stops etc. but my rear brake drum housing and shroud have rust holes in the bottom. It’s got an e locker and I want to know if a non e locker rear Axel will “plug and play” in a sense to the axel I have already? Thanks in advance!

2002 doesn't have an elocker. You need matching ratios.

 

[CougarHound]

My axle seals are leaking and I was going to replace the axle seals and bearings. I found a whole new axle on ebay for $600. It has different axle code and not a locker. Can I just take my 3rd member out and swap it into the new axle housing? Would it be worth it? My axle housing is pretty rusty and a while ago I already had to weld the suspension links back on after it rusted off.

 

[brillo_76]

My axle seals are leaking and I was going to replace the axle seals and bearings. I found a whole new axle on ebay for $600. It has different axle code and not a locker. Can I just take my 3rd member out and swap it into the new axle housing? Would it be worth it? My axle housing is pretty rusty and a while ago I already had to weld the suspension links back on after it rusted off.

Yes you can swap the 3rd members in 3rd gens to another housing. I have one of mine housings like that. I just going to swap my front and back for Elocker as I have a donor parts mobile that was a limited.

When I swap mine I going to change the axle seals so they dont leak into the brakes.

I dont believe there is any difference besides ratios in a 2wd or 4wd housing.

Someone can verify that would be great as all I have are 4wds..

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[CougarHound]

Yes you can swap the 3rd members in 3rd gens to another housing. I have one of mine housings like that. I just going to swap my front and back for Elocker as I have a donor parts mobile that was a limited.

When I swap mine I going to change the axle seals so they dont leak into the brakes.

I dont believe there is any difference besides ratios in a 2wd or 4wd housing.

Someone can verify that would be great as all I have are 4wds..

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

Yea ideally I would do an elocker swap, but the parts are hard to find and I hear that front one is a pain. I also don't think I'll ever use it. I don't even use the center lock. Not worth the effort for me.

 

[Enigma8246]

I realize this is a 10+ year old post but appreciate it. I've been trying to verify a part number for almost an hr now and this post and description did it.

2: Link Cushion Retainers (above lower cushion) - Toyota part #90948-02127