Rust converters

GangsterOfLove

New member
I recently repainted a box trailer that had a lot of surface rust. I used up several partial spray cans of rust converter I had in the shed and bought some more as well. I ended up using three different kinds - Locktite, Rustoleum and Duplicolor. They all say they convert rust to a paintable surface but each one works differently.

Rustoleum: Sprays on like dark auto primer. The only one of the three with pigment in it. I used this on the sides because I had more of it than the other kinds.

Locktite: Sprays on clear, darkens the rust slightly but still leaves it orange. It's on the tailgate

Duplicolor: Sprays on clear and the rust turns black almost instantly. I used it on the front and the tongue.

I top coated with Duplicolor bedliner spray - the "oil" based version. I'll be watching to see if any of the rust comes back and refer to this thread to see which one fails first.

Has anyone used these products long enough to predict which one will last the longest?
 
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I've used the Rustoleum brand on my 5'x8' trailer that I use to haul my snowblowers around in the winter. I end up having to redo it every 2 years.
 
Rust convert, converts, you need something to add the later of production.

I have been meaning to try SEM rust trap, which sounds pretty simple to apply. seems like new rust encapsulation technology.
 
This thread is relevant to my interests. I've tried several different kinds of these and never noticed any of them working particularly well.
 
Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer is way superior IMO. I've used this with excellent results on some outdoor projects. Surface prep is super important as well.
 
Anyone know how POR15 compares to these brands? Even that seems to form just a clear coating ontop of the rust.

I would think the most effective way to prevent rust from spreading further would be to use something zinc based which would act as a sacrificial anode against corrosion.
 
I've heard nothing but good things about POR-15. Going to try some this summer as some of the spots are starting to get beyond my comfort level.
 
Por-15 really should be laid straight on rust. I've used it a little on my truck. So far so good. However I think for a rust converter to work. The rust needs to be completely sealed from oxygen on both sides. Not jusy the part you see. As por-15 it really seals the metal. But if it comes back thats because somewhere under where you can't see the moisture or oxygen is still rusting it away. Best way is to grind it down, replace the metal. Or idk, it sucks. I also heard that it sucks to weld something once por-15 is applied.
 
Stick to professional grade rust treatments only:
Por 15
Rust Bullet
Sem
Eastwood

I have used Rust Bullet on my frame with superb results. It's expensive, but worth it.
 
I did the POR15 on my rear axle, and Eastwood on the frame. Eastwood rust converter x2 layers, and eastwood extreme chassis paint x3 layers. Then I used Fluid Film before the stupid salt was used. It looks really good still after the 'winter' we keep having up here...
 
One of the big rust spots. Is inside rocker panels. Take one of the side pilars of. And try and peak inside. Also there's holes when you remove the pillars. Perfect time to spray fruid film.


What does fluid film do if sprayed on rust ?
 
One of the big rust spots. Is inside rocker panels. Take one of the side pilars of. And try and peak inside. Also there's holes when you remove the pillars. Perfect time to spray fruid film.


What does fluid film do if sprayed on rust ?

Fluid film is not a rust inhibitor, it wont do anything. Fluid film is good to use before it starts rusting.
 
For a straight rust converter/primer get this.

Klean-Strip 1 gal. Phosphoric Prep and Etch-GKPA30220 - The Home Depot

Exactly the same stuff as the more expensive brands.

Then paint over that with Rustoleum, or whatever you want.

POR15 is not a rust converter. It just seals it up and keeps grime and salt off the metal. It works as a preventative measure but I never bought the idea that you can just spray it on an already rusted frame and call it a day. I'd rather apply a rust converter, then paint over that for frames that have some rust already.
 
For a straight rust converter/primer get this.

Klean-Strip 1 gal. Phosphoric Prep and Etch-GKPA30220 - The Home Depot

Exactly the same stuff as the more expensive brands.

Then paint over that with Rustoleum, or whatever you want.

POR15 is not a rust converter. It just seals it up and keeps grime and salt off the metal. It works as a preventative measure but I never bought the idea that you can just spray it on an already rusted frame and call it a day. I'd rather apply a rust converter, then paint over that for frames that have some rust already.

Thanks for the info. I didn't believe you at first but you're right.
But you have to paint over POR 15 too.

POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating is a high performance coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces and will stop rust permanently. POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating is non-porous and seals and protects many surfaces from water, chemicals, salt, and other corrosive contaminants and is able to be painted over rust. POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating is an effective anti-corrosive and rust preventive coating that offers superior chemical resistance due to its dense, cross-linked molecular composition and non-porous attributes.

The secret lies in POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating's curing process. Most paints dry through evaporation, but POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating dries faster when moisture is present. It has the opposite chemistry of ordinary paints. Now add to that POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating incredible hardness, toughness, and flexibility and you have a coating that is practically indestructible. POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating is a permanent rust repair great for auto frame and chassis restoration, protecting valuable equipment against rust and corrosion. You'll be amazed at the toughness!

http://qr.absolutecoatings.com/QR-assets/downloads/POR15/POR15-Description.pdf
 
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Thanks for the info. I didn't believe you at first but you're right.
But you have to paint over POR 15 too.

Well, you're supposed to, but I see a lot of shops just slap it on there as a one step cure for rust. I just think it's over-priced and over-rated, but I'm a cheap bastard so YMMV. :lol:
 
Dealing w/ Rust

When I bought my Used Certified Pre-owned 16 T4R SR5 I found to be random areas of rust when I removed stock skid plate, I didn't want to just ignore it. To battle this I went to youtube and bought a few different Items.

1. The Must for Rust - Coverts Rust to Paint-able Surface/ Breaks down rust.
2. Break Cleaner Fluid - Clean off scrapped surface rust.
3. Small Metal Brush
4. Steel Wool
5. Eye Protection
6. 3M - Undercoat paint

Total cost - About $50 - could be less if you order from amazon and wait.

I started by brushing any surface rust I found as best I could with metal brush and steel wool. (wear eye protection and mask if you can).
Step 2 use break cleaner to spray on rust (doesn't leave residue)
Step 3 apply generous amount of The Must for Rust on rusted areas under car and leave for an hour (go have lunch)
Step 4 make sure everything is not wet and apply even layer of 3M Undercoat over treated rust. There will still be some rust marks but the Must For Rust has stopped it in its tracks and the layer of undercoat will prevent more rust unless water gets underneath it again.

Good Luck!
 
For what its worth, I used a product called corroseal to convert the rust on my frame.

It went from this:
weSLr2Ul.jpg


To this, after 1 coat of Corroseal (ended up doing 2-3 coats, depending on the area):
mt2l1Lal.jpg


Then I added a topcoat of Rustoleum and finished with some Fluid Film:
3Ef4miAl.jpg


Time consuming, but happy with the results. I looked at Por-15, but opted with a more cost-effective route at first. I'll monitor the rust over time and if needed, go with POR-15 down the road!
 
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Not sure how many of you have heard of OSPHO. It is the consistency of water and it can be easily sprayed on rust. The thin consistency of the product gets down behind any flakey rust you might have missed with a wire brush. It converts the rust to a black primer. I like it cause being able to put it in a small hand-held pump sprayer (like you might find in a garden center) it allows me to get in tough spots. I have let other folks try this stuff on trailers, metal work and even cast iron porch railings and they all LOVE IT. It works great but like any rust converter, it has to be painted/sealed over.

Google "OSPHO" or see if the local Sherwin Williams shop has it, or can get it for you.
 

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