Rust Removal/Prevention

Dalko43

New member
Hello all. I bought a used 2011 (~ 33k miles) 5th Gen 4runner Trail for about $27k (before taxes) about a month ago. The 4runner I think was bought for a decent deal; no nav, has sunroof, base seats, ect. but everything looked to be in good shape and runs fine.


The one thing that concerned me slightly was the rust on the undercarriage/frame. This 4runner was bought in upstate NY, so rust is going to happen. I was aware of it before I made the purchase, so this not a surprise to me, but I was intending to clean up the underside and rust-proof, as much as possible, the vehicle. Here is what I am dealing with:




My question: What options do I have for cleaning off this rust and preventing rust in the future? Anyone have any recommendations for products/ procedures that worked well for them? Please note that I had the flash on, so the rust parts were highlighted somewhat; they stand out more in these pictures than they do in real life.

I am realistic on this. I realize I won't get all the rust off, and I realize that eventually more rust will get on there (this is the Northeast after all).
 

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A few more pictures.

Also 2 of these pics show what I think is part of the exhaust piping....it's the pipe that is flattened somewhat near the cross-brace/strut. Is that pipe supposed to be flattened like that? And why is it not located above the actual frame of the truck? It seems like it is sticking out and just asking to get smashed in or broken by a boulder or obstacle.
 

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my 2¢:

- take it to a self-wash bay and do a super thorough job cleaning off the underside with the spray wand
- let it dry completely
- use a wire brush to remove the loose stuff on the worst offending areas
- cover it in Fluid Film (you can spray it inside of the frame rails, as well)
- reapply Fluid Film annually in late summer/fall

Fluid Film should arrest the spread of existing rust and prevent new rust from forming. unlike other treatments, it doesn't attempt to "encapsulate" rust, which means that while it won't create a scenario where the steel rusts from the inside out, it does mean it's not a one-time treatment—it's a maintenance task.

the exhaust crossover pipe is normal, btw.
 
I agree with sandcrawler. You should also be able to find places up north that will spray an undercoating for you.
 
I discovered fluid film this past year and used it to undercoat my truck before the winter to prevent salt damage. So far it's been awesome, just rinse it off and it's like new again. In your case I would wire brush the rough stuff, use an abrasive pad on everything else and cover with a good epoxy paint. Use fluid film on top of the paint before the winter hits again.
 
+1 for fluid film. Used it for the first time ever when my wife got her '15 TEP about 5 weeks back, and was really impressed with how well it goes on and so far, how well it stays on and resists the magnesium chloride they put on the roads in CT.

For the rough stuff, I'm with MoS, wire brush it down just to get any scale or loose paint off, then hit it with a good rattle can rusty metal paint (rustoleum is my go to), then fluid film afterwards. What I like about the rustoleum is that it doesn't try to seal rust in, it just slows it down, that is the rust will come back through if it's under the paint, which to me is better than having it rust out the backside. The FF should take care of the rest.
 
Thanks for the feedback so far. I will definitely look into Fluid Film and Chassis Saver.

A few more questions:

Are there any issues with using both Fluid Film and a spray on paint (like rustoleum)? Does one counteract or negate the other?

I know I need either a wire brush or angle grinder. Are there any cleaning products I can use to expedite some of the rust removal (rust removal cleaning solutions)?

What parts should I avoid trying to clean? I know the drive shaft and the some of the control arms have rusted up pretty bad...I probably shouldn't fiddle with the drive shaft, but what about other moving parts?
 
Thanks for the feedback so far. I will definitely look into Fluid Film and Chassis Saver.

A few more questions:

Are there any issues with using both Fluid Film and a spray on paint (like rustoleum)? Does one counteract or negate the other?

I know I need either a wire brush or angle grinder. Are there any cleaning products I can use to expedite some of the rust removal (rust removal cleaning solutions)?

What parts should I avoid trying to clean? I know the drive shaft and the some of the control arms have rusted up pretty bad...I probably shouldn't fiddle with the drive shaft, but what about other moving parts?

I would recommend using a good paint then a coat of Fluid Film over that once the paint has cured. I don't see a problem cleaning and painting the drive shaft or anything else. It's not like you're coating it with something thick like LineX.
 
Instead of Fluid Film there's also something called ACF 50. It's used on aircrafts and a bunch of motorcyclist use it.
 
If you don't wire wheel the rust to bare metal but spray paint over it it will rot under the paint then bleed through. Save yourself a lot of time, wire wheel it before washing, rinse in your driveway and have your fluid film appt already booked for the next day.

I personally did the wire wheel, SEM Rust Trap, then fluid film on top of it.

ONCE YOU SPRAY ON FLUID FILM DO NOT WASH YOUR CHASSIS WITH HOT WATER OR IN A CAR WASH. hot water and high pressure are the only things to remove fluid film. Spray that junk on and drive down a dirt road to cake the dirt on and you'll be set.
 
I know I need either a wire brush or angle grinder. Are there any cleaning products I can use to expedite some of the rust removal (rust removal cleaning solutions)?

Pick up a face shield and a respirator or good dust masks when you buy the angle grinder. Safety first :thumb3:
 
Any one ever use this stuff?

"Corroseal Rust Converter"

The winter by the Great Lakes has really been brutal our two older trucks, so I'm looking to do a little spring cleaning (rust) when the weather is warmer


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I grew up in upstate NY (Rochester area) in the 50's and remember when cars would last about 4 years before the rocker panels and fender wells were gone. Cleaning rust with a brush is like cleaning a battery. You'll only do it once without some kind of protection for your nose and mouth. You'll be tasting rust for a couple days! So get some protection for whatever method you choose and just throw out everything after - clothes included.
 
In my years of experience here in Nova Scotia, remove lose paint/rust and spray fluid film (I use rust check or krown). The fluid film will absorb into the now porous frame and stop the rust and prevent further rust as long as fluid film is on the frame. Which mean re apply annually, and when I hear people saying pressure wash the undercarriage throughout the winter I cringe because that just rinses off fluid film and forces nice hot water with salt into areas it normally would not enter. Washing in the spring is another solution, after winter and before next falls reapplication of fluid film

My $0.02
 
That is kind of what my 2004 looks like, and that is saying much considering how much my parents did not take care of there car.


the only real logic choice is to just power wash it. I would suggest you do some hand scrubing with meguiars super degreaser (or degreaser of your choice) and a medium straight tire brush with long handle.

then fluid film like everyone else said. Rust converts need to get to bare metal, and is not designed for mixed rust. you caught this super early, you should be fine, but you need to fluid film every year.
 
In my years of experience here in Nova Scotia, remove lose paint/rust and spray fluid film (I use rust check or krown). The fluid film will absorb into the now porous frame and stop the rust and prevent further rust as long as fluid film is on the frame. Which mean re apply annually, and when I hear people saying pressure wash the undercarriage throughout the winter I cringe because that just rinses off fluid film and forces nice hot water with salt into areas it normally would not enter. Washing in the spring is another solution, after winter and before next falls reapplication of fluid film

My $0.02

how does your frame look now? Just curious, post up pics never enough of properly treated frames and there aftermath!
 
I found a guy who sprays fluid film on an outside lift for $100 + FF cost (half gallon). He uses the wands and whatever he needs to get everywhere he can.
I'll pay him every year to do that to both vehicles. That's a no brainer.

I use it on battery terminals and anything that I want to keep from oxidizing. On my trailer also.

Good stuff.
 
My '13 spent its first two years in California, when I moved to CT in 2015 I sprayed a couple cans of undercoating on it before it's 'first' winter.
The next year I sprayed fluid film, and was impressed with it.
Underside has close to zero rust.
One thing I noticed is that the fluidfilm ican says not to spray over existing coatings...but I havnt noticed any damage to the undercoating.

I thought the vehicle was going to turn to dust after seeing photo's like the OP's.
 
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how does your frame look now? Just curious, post up pics never enough of properly treated frames and there aftermath!


My 4Runner is a 2016 and I bought a Tacoma that qualified for the frame replacement, so basically pictures of my current vehicles wouldn't prove much.
I did have a a 2012 ram 1500 that saw 4 winters here and it didn't have a spec of rust, I was krown rust proofed every fall (4 times total).
If you keep an oil based coating on your frame that doesn't dry out, and it displaces moisture you should never get any serious rust on your vehicle. The uphill battle is making sure you maintain coverage and get inside everywhere with the rust proof I spray.

Here my new frame on a 12 year old truck! Thanks Toyota. Previous owner didn't put a drop of undercoating anywhere on the truck.
 

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