Rusted Tailgate Latch

clanger

New member
C1-D35-B3-B-4-CC9-4535-8-ACC-BE9-EE8-AFC9-D3.jpg"


2014 4Runner SR5

Tailgate latch area has major rust happening and didn’t get this bad till this fall. I had an issue with the glass falling down due to rust on the hangar and motor dropping it this summer. Now I found this after removing the trim piece that covers up the latch assembly. Really bummed it got this far.

This area inside the tailgate is just prone to excess moisture in my 4Runner. Clogged weep holes along the bottom doesn’t help either. I’m worried it is too late but wanted to get your thoughts. Hoping it might be salvageable.

My initial thought is using a rust converter and sanding to try to save it. Inside and out of the tailgate assembly. Worse case I’ll run until it breaks off and buy just the tailgate body part. Paint and re-assemble it myself.
 
Register to hide this ad
I didn’t bother to try to save mine.

I read somewhere that only two manufacturers make the assemblies, despite branding and price differences. So I went with the cheapest imported eBay latch assembly about six months ago and it’s been fine.
 
I replaced mine with OEM after 8 years and rusty latch mechanism before it failed and locked up.
 
Did you replace just the rear tailgate assembly and moved everything over? There are sales right now on the tailgate only for $625 which isn’t horrible. I think I’m able to fix it myself but waiting for winter to end.

Part below:

9-BC5-FC0-B-E776-4367-A4-BE-2-D975-B663085.jpg
 
I JB welded the tailgate and lubed up the latch with PB Blaster. I'm not about to replace an entire tailgate just based on this.

However-- I will say that if it was to eat things out enough the latch would have nowhere to bolt to, then that's an issue.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
 
My locking mechanism was rusty, which I replaced. Tailgate is fine and didn't need to be replaced.
 
5th gen hatch lock rust

I have the same issue. The rust came from the inside out, so when I saw it, it was already too late. The rust has rapidly progressed to the point that I had to buy a new hatch and lock.

Looking at the plastic water shield on the lock, is it not plausible that the open cell foam around the base of the lock at the door is holding water/sale and causing the corrosion? The rust pattern matches the shape of the foam covered shield. I am debating on removing the foam, since it seems to be causing more problems than it stops. I am going to Fluid Film the daylights out of the inside of the door as well.

See attached.
 

Attachments

  • 20240211_161029 b.jpg
    20240211_161029 b.jpg
    68.4 KB · Views: 1,512
  • 20240508_114047-b.jpg
    20240508_114047-b.jpg
    81.3 KB · Views: 1,338
I am going to Fluid Film the daylights out of the inside of the door as well.

See attached.

I take the hand grab holders out of from the liftgate and spray fluid film in that way. you can use the drain holes too but you can get a lot more reach going through the hand grab spots. for anyone that doesn't want to remove their rear hatch this will really get good covering on that latch area too

I also do the doors as well
 
I JB welded the tailgate and lubed up the latch with PB Blaster. I'm not about to replace an entire tailgate just based on this.

However-- I will say that if it was to eat things out enough the latch would have nowhere to bolt to, then that's an issue.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
Funny seeing this post now. A year later I traded it in. Largely (but not 100%) due to this issue.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,048
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top