Rusty fuel filter kicking my a$$

[thor999]

So I am DEATHLY afraid of putting any real tension on the (flare nuts?) connecting the fuel lines to the fuel filter. I have been applying PB Blaster religiously for 2 weeks and got one side to break free, but the other refuses to budge, and of course, that would be the end that goes to the motor Have filed the sides of the nut and used a line wrench, but the damn thing keeps wanting to strip :toilet3: any ideas? This is a 2001 SR5 automatic, forever marred by Minnesota road salt. FWIW the existing filter LOOKS brand new, but no record of ever having been changed before I bought it 5 years ago.

 

[cj80cruiser]

The nuts rounding off with a line wrench?

 

[thor999]

Yep! Filed down the square edge some and still doing it... tempted to use vise grips but then what? Kind of a rough situation...

 

[thor999]

Kinda desperate, especially after another forum member mentioned that Toy dealership said they refused to work on it as it was too rusty :hiding: would these help? Super price on E-Z RED - LW4M at ToolTopia.com

 

[t4r4life]

see the tricky part is this is a fuel line if it was an air line you can heat it up and bust the thing open for sure but fire and gas dont mix, my best advice is to clean up the rust as best as you can, literally get a towel soaked in PB and just wrap that sucker up and park it in warm garage for a day or two and get your wrench on it, get a hammer, cross your finger and give it a good hit if your lucky the nut will come loose, im praying for ya buddy.

 

[sgtstinky]

I'm tackling rust issues as well, I will be replacing my fuel filter this weekend and I fear that I may be in the same boat as you! Good luck....

 

[cj80cruiser]

If that doesn't work I have one more suggestion. An experienced mechanic told me that sometimes in addition to soaking in penetrating oil you can leave something stubborn under pressure overnight and you can get it off the next day.

My theory is that the constant pressure and changing temperature from day to night and back to day....shrinking expanding of metal maybe??? just a theory but the method described above has worked for me once (the only time I tried it) when removing a pitman arm from a 91 bronco.

Try this after you've exhausted all other methods.
1) Put a wrench on the filter nut and get it so that the wrench attached to the filter nut is at the same time resting on top of your driveshaft.

2) Then rig up something like I did in the photo below to get leverage on the fuel line nut.

3) Use a small bottle jack upside down to wedge between the body of your truck and the end of the pry tool.

4). Extend the bottle jack until you feel like you have a decent amount of pressure put on the lever.

5). Leave over night.



This may be an elaborate setup and quite honestly I don't know for sure there is enough room under there to set this all up. Mine came out fairly easy.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Kroil is the best lubricant to use on rusty parts, it can be ordered through Amazon. Then I would try CJ80's ingenious method to get off the nut.

You many want to see if you can find a 14mm flare nut that is tapered on one end, then slip a cheater pipe over the flare nut wrench it to give you more leverage.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

I just changed mine two weekends ago, pretty sure it was original from '97. The inlet side broke loose somewhat easily. The otlet side was a major pain in the *ss. Mine didn't want to strip, it just didn't want to budge at all.

Can't believe I'm admitting to this but I will: I put a 14mm box wrench on the nut, held the filter with a set of channel locks and "tapped" we'll say, the 14mm wrench with a rubber mallet. Not pretty, not smart but it worked. Then soaked both nuts in PB Blaster before installing the new filter. New one went on like a dream.

 

[cj80cruiser]

Kroil is the best lubricant to use on rusty parts, it can be ordered through Amazon. Then I would try CJ80's ingenious method to get off the nut.

Ingenious lol. I'm sure that's what you wanted to call it :biggrin2:

 

[cordrayj1]

i had trouble getting mine off too. PB blaster + 4 hours of waiting + Vice Grips cranked as tight as they could get + elbow grease + gloves = success

 

[sportscarfan]

Be sure to put a wrench on the flats that are built onto the filter. You can bang on the wrench that is on the filter to transmit some vibration to the threads inside (and subsequently helping the penetrating fluid get to where it needs to be). As others have stated, time + pressure with penetrating fluid will eventually work.

My original '97 filter was also really tight. I started with PB Blaster, then wire brushed the exposed threads, then more PB Blaster. Then went at it. A couple minutes later I was installing the new one, and the next battle - getting the threads started by hand on both ends.
Not a bad job if you know what to expect. Thanks T4R.org!

 

[thor999]

Hmmm, email subscription not working for me? Sorry for not replying! I have ordered Kroil and will try that for a few weeks, and the wrenches / bottle jack trick the night before, will post results when done (2 weeks?).

 

[MTDewX8]

I ended up cutting the side that went to the motor and put in a new filter and line.
was the only way. nothing like having to do this a day before a trip.

now that its my rig, I will make sure it never gets that bad. what a pain

 

[LittleCaesar]

Give the Kroil time to work (a couple of days). I have had rusted bolts and the like thanks to sea water and salt air move after years of being stuck thanks to Kroil.

Make sure to have the 14mm and 19mm flare nut wrench at hand for good leverage.

 

[thor999]

Having a great day! Went to my buddy's house (he has a garage I do not) with the intent of replacing fuel filter, air fuel sensor, trailer hitch and outer tie rod, and got NOTHING done because of rust... after a week of Kroil, nothing gives... hey MTDewX8 what did you do after cutting the line? I assumed the whole line would need to be replaced because of the flared end? To summarize my day: :toilet3:

 

[Nelsonmd]

Yeah, my buddy came over to my place to work on his volvo, and one of the things he picked up was a new fuel filter. The filter is connected by plastic quick releases. He got under there and had the old one out and the new one in in less than a minute...

F me, I have had a new filter for almost a year but am terrified to try to change it because of all my rust...

 

[t4r4life]

heat and lube does wonders when comes to rust, no homo (just not for the fuel filter part)

 

[cordrayj1]

pb + vice grips + elbow grease = success.


mine was rusty too. not sure how rusty yours is though....

 

[cordrayj1]

personally, i wouldnt recommend and type of "heat" on the FUEL LINE! thats just me though.