Sandy crotch Build Thread
- Thread starter awthorn
- Start date
awthorn
New member
Thanks, you as well! I am thinking about putting in a high flow cat here soon. The smell is starting to get realllly annoying.
Did you go from no cat to a cat with the LCE headers? If so, how has the added back pressure affected your mid range?
I have some small updated to my build coming soon but I have just been lazy. Too many other things going on. Like smoking meat in my freshly build UDS. [emoji16]
Scramble
New member
I replaced the OEM cat back in 2004 with a rebuilt. My muffler started getting a hole in it a few weeks ago so I put in the ProFlow SS exhaust. I changed out the cat because I was under there & didn't want to have that 1 restriction in the flow. I haven't had a chance to really test the exhaust because I have to change a CV axle now. Plus I just put bigger tires on her so I dont know if I'd feel a difference. It is loud though!
I need a smoker!
awthorn
New member
Nice, yeah as you know i did the CVJs and like them.
Look up a UDS Smoker. I built it for about $150. And you can do them for cheaper. I just wanted certain things in mine.
awthorn
New member
So it has been a long while since I have updated my build thread. Are you ready? I think I am going to do this in phases over the next couple nights.
In April my drivers side CV input shaft seal went after the trip to Hard Rock Cycle Park. We eneded up replacing it to no sooner have the passenger side go.
In May I hosted a Maintenance/ Mod BBQ at my house where we did the passenger side input shaft seal. This time it took about 35 minutes to do vs the hour with the drivers side (sorry no pics I was up to my elbows in diff fluid!)
For fathers day my wonderful wife got me (let me buy) the shift knob I have been eyeing for some time; along with some a poly shifter busing and seat.
I also finally installed my new passenger side mirror. The old one looked like someone took a bite out of crime and whisteled as you drove down the road.
Some masking before spay painting this sucker
Time to DRY!
All installed, no too shabby for some rattle can if i don't say so myself!
In April my drivers side CV input shaft seal went after the trip to Hard Rock Cycle Park. We eneded up replacing it to no sooner have the passenger side go.
In May I hosted a Maintenance/ Mod BBQ at my house where we did the passenger side input shaft seal. This time it took about 35 minutes to do vs the hour with the drivers side (sorry no pics I was up to my elbows in diff fluid!)
For fathers day my wonderful wife got me (let me buy) the shift knob I have been eyeing for some time; along with some a poly shifter busing and seat.
I also finally installed my new passenger side mirror. The old one looked like someone took a bite out of crime and whisteled as you drove down the road.
Some masking before spay painting this sucker
Time to DRY!
All installed, no too shabby for some rattle can if i don't say so myself!
awthorn
New member
July - Man it seems like I did a lot in July...
Well my powersteering rack decided it was going to start leaking from the input shaft seal. I found a used one off a 2000 (updated guide style) with 75k on it for $140.
While prepping the used rack i decided to make sure the OTEs could be adjusted. It turned out the passenger jam nut was rusted on; pb blaster and heat did nothing so I had to cut it off. I replaced with somer grade 8 jam nuts from Ace Hardware.
I also have been for the past year trying to get my sway bar out. i could never get the passenger side front nut off. I got to the point of frustration where the grindr came out. Turns our the bolt was so rusted from the A/C drip line. Definately not a good design/placment of the drip line on Toyota's part.
Left is the passenger bolt that had to be cur off, right is the drivers side which was as easy as pie.
The forward nuts on the mounts both came off but look at the corrosion from 18 years of a/c drippings!
oh yeah, the mounting plate came off too.
LOTS OF SPARKS WERE HAD. I felt real manly when my wife pulls up and the front of my truck has sparks fling from it.
Install with the help of [MENTION=125736]Limited98[/MENTION] it went ( THANK GOD HE WAS THERE!). It ended up taking us way longer than it should have due to the main high pressure line not wanting to come out and a couple other issues.
I ended up replacing all of the bushings in the "new" rack. Below was my process to get them out while on the bench.
For the center bushing I used a socket, a long bolt, fender washer, nut and a deep socket to get the nut down and push the busing into the large socket through the hole.
For the large bushing on the drivers side i used a differnt method as i didn't have a large enough socket to push the bushing into.
I elevated the rack and used a bar clamp and socket to push it out.
So the basics of the install of the new rack were going as expected until we go to removing the lines from the old rack. The low pressure return line came off slowly, but it came off.
The high pressure line had rusted the nut to the line it self not allowing the nut to turn, the whole line was trying to turn!
We ended up taking the line off the pump and feeding it down the engine bay attached to the rack still.
Finally the rack was out! Here are the two racks side by side.
So the knuckle, yeah. it was rusted on there good. PB Blaster and heat didn't do the trick; after about 40 minutes of fooling with it the BFH came out and I boogered up the end of a nut and had to grind the tip off to make new starter thread.
The high pressure line and knuckle are finally transferd over and ready for install.
It wouldn't be the job from Hades if it didn't have one last kicker. When we installed the new middle bushing in the "new" rack there were two center collars for the bushing. The two, to the naked eye look the same. Word to the wise, test fit your center bolt in the collar before installing in the rubber bushing or you will end up fooling around as to why the bolt wont go through for 30 minutes and dropping the rack to push out the wrong collar and installing the right one like we did. LESSON LEARNED!
Well my powersteering rack decided it was going to start leaking from the input shaft seal. I found a used one off a 2000 (updated guide style) with 75k on it for $140.
While prepping the used rack i decided to make sure the OTEs could be adjusted. It turned out the passenger jam nut was rusted on; pb blaster and heat did nothing so I had to cut it off. I replaced with somer grade 8 jam nuts from Ace Hardware.
I also have been for the past year trying to get my sway bar out. i could never get the passenger side front nut off. I got to the point of frustration where the grindr came out. Turns our the bolt was so rusted from the A/C drip line. Definately not a good design/placment of the drip line on Toyota's part.
Left is the passenger bolt that had to be cur off, right is the drivers side which was as easy as pie.
The forward nuts on the mounts both came off but look at the corrosion from 18 years of a/c drippings!
oh yeah, the mounting plate came off too.
LOTS OF SPARKS WERE HAD. I felt real manly when my wife pulls up and the front of my truck has sparks fling from it.
Install with the help of [MENTION=125736]Limited98[/MENTION] it went ( THANK GOD HE WAS THERE!). It ended up taking us way longer than it should have due to the main high pressure line not wanting to come out and a couple other issues.
I ended up replacing all of the bushings in the "new" rack. Below was my process to get them out while on the bench.
For the center bushing I used a socket, a long bolt, fender washer, nut and a deep socket to get the nut down and push the busing into the large socket through the hole.
For the large bushing on the drivers side i used a differnt method as i didn't have a large enough socket to push the bushing into.
I elevated the rack and used a bar clamp and socket to push it out.
So the basics of the install of the new rack were going as expected until we go to removing the lines from the old rack. The low pressure return line came off slowly, but it came off.
The high pressure line had rusted the nut to the line it self not allowing the nut to turn, the whole line was trying to turn!
We ended up taking the line off the pump and feeding it down the engine bay attached to the rack still.
Finally the rack was out! Here are the two racks side by side.
So the knuckle, yeah. it was rusted on there good. PB Blaster and heat didn't do the trick; after about 40 minutes of fooling with it the BFH came out and I boogered up the end of a nut and had to grind the tip off to make new starter thread.
The high pressure line and knuckle are finally transferd over and ready for install.
It wouldn't be the job from Hades if it didn't have one last kicker. When we installed the new middle bushing in the "new" rack there were two center collars for the bushing. The two, to the naked eye look the same. Word to the wise, test fit your center bolt in the collar before installing in the rubber bushing or you will end up fooling around as to why the bolt wont go through for 30 minutes and dropping the rack to push out the wrong collar and installing the right one like we did. LESSON LEARNED!
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Chuckles89
New member
I really like the shift knob! Did the shifter seat and bushing make a big difference?
AZ_Trails
New member
I've had the same Marlin Crawler shift knob plus their short throw shifter for a while now. I can't say enough good things about the combo and highly recommend it!
awthorn
New member
If your seat and bushing are already shot you will notice a huge difference in how the shifter feels. I wore out my OEM seat in about 2 years. The Marlin seat has a firmer feel to it and I am sure it will last longer than the OEM. My busing wasn't really gone that I had replaced a couple years ago, but, I had a new one and said why. It put it in while I have things apart.
When I replaced my bushings the first time I had a decent amount of side to side movement while in gear and it took care of that. I started to feel that same movement when in ordered these.
awthorn
New member
I would love one of their short throw shifters but they don't make one for the W59 transmission yet. Which is really surprising as they are throwing 3RZs in everything over in California!
But yeah I really love the shifter too. If you don't have their HD clutch, do yourself a favor an when yours goes replace it with that!
awthorn
New member
More that happened in July
I had finally decided after checking out my brakes that it was time to do the tundra upgrade.
I found a yard that what I thought had some 199mm calipers ( they would fit under my split 3 rims). I went the yard (barely used) and picked them up. I had my caliper codes all wrong and ended up with some 13WL (231mm) calipers. They were used and not in the best of shape so I decided to take my hand at rebuilding them. One of them had apparently been on the ground for some time.
First things first I took my angle grinder and a wire wheel and cup to clean these suckers up!
This is the one that had rust all over the outside.
Now that they are all cleaned of rust and other grabage lets get the pistons out. My method is probably a little odd compared to most but what I did was take zip ties to help hold the calper pistons in place as they started to work out as I added some compressed air. I also added some thin boards of wood in there for "safety".
I got one done then started on the second (the one that was all rusted up). Turns out the second was completely frozen! PB Blaster, c-clamps, and higher pressures couldn't get them to budge. You can see where the piston boots were gone and the pistons had rusted to the housings.
Now that I was down a caliper I decided to order a remanned one from Napa using my one as a core; not my first choice but it did the job.
I did finish rebuilding the first one. So I cleaned up the pistons with some brake cleaner and a soft bristle nylon brush.
Lubed the pistons up and put them in the caliper.
Finished them up with the piston boots and the boot retainers. All done with my first caliper rebuild and it came out great!
Time for some G2 Caliper paint! Sorry for the crappy pictures, it was late and I had put the first half of my paint in a container that the hardener ate through so I wasn't too happy.
For the Rotors I went with the Vented Duralast Gold Black z-clad coating.
New VS old Rotor thickness
For Pads I went with the Duralast Max ceramic pads. Oh and my son wanted to play with his truck on the workbench while I opened parts.
While I was replacing all of these brake components I decided I was going to do my front lines as they were all cracked up. ( New vs Old)
The extended braided line for the rear. No pictures out of the package for comparison. The rear line was being a pain for me with how little room i had for my line wrench.
I also, because I ended up with the 231's needed some spacers to clear things. I ended up with the Spidertrax 1.25" Black Anodized. You know, to go with the already back theme.
I also decided it was time to check out my drums. Something I had dreaded doing as i hate drum brakes. But I ended up doing them and i survived, there might have been some expletives but it got done!
I also took the time to rattle can to my rear hubs, the rust color didn't go well with the blacked out split 3's .. odd how that happens.
I had finally decided after checking out my brakes that it was time to do the tundra upgrade.
I found a yard that what I thought had some 199mm calipers ( they would fit under my split 3 rims). I went the yard (barely used) and picked them up. I had my caliper codes all wrong and ended up with some 13WL (231mm) calipers. They were used and not in the best of shape so I decided to take my hand at rebuilding them. One of them had apparently been on the ground for some time.
First things first I took my angle grinder and a wire wheel and cup to clean these suckers up!
This is the one that had rust all over the outside.
Now that they are all cleaned of rust and other grabage lets get the pistons out. My method is probably a little odd compared to most but what I did was take zip ties to help hold the calper pistons in place as they started to work out as I added some compressed air. I also added some thin boards of wood in there for "safety".
I got one done then started on the second (the one that was all rusted up). Turns out the second was completely frozen! PB Blaster, c-clamps, and higher pressures couldn't get them to budge. You can see where the piston boots were gone and the pistons had rusted to the housings.
Now that I was down a caliper I decided to order a remanned one from Napa using my one as a core; not my first choice but it did the job.
I did finish rebuilding the first one. So I cleaned up the pistons with some brake cleaner and a soft bristle nylon brush.
Lubed the pistons up and put them in the caliper.
Finished them up with the piston boots and the boot retainers. All done with my first caliper rebuild and it came out great!
Time for some G2 Caliper paint! Sorry for the crappy pictures, it was late and I had put the first half of my paint in a container that the hardener ate through so I wasn't too happy.
For the Rotors I went with the Vented Duralast Gold Black z-clad coating.
New VS old Rotor thickness
For Pads I went with the Duralast Max ceramic pads. Oh and my son wanted to play with his truck on the workbench while I opened parts.
While I was replacing all of these brake components I decided I was going to do my front lines as they were all cracked up. ( New vs Old)
The extended braided line for the rear. No pictures out of the package for comparison. The rear line was being a pain for me with how little room i had for my line wrench.
I also, because I ended up with the 231's needed some spacers to clear things. I ended up with the Spidertrax 1.25" Black Anodized. You know, to go with the already back theme.
I also decided it was time to check out my drums. Something I had dreaded doing as i hate drum brakes. But I ended up doing them and i survived, there might have been some expletives but it got done!
I also took the time to rattle can to my rear hubs, the rust color didn't go well with the blacked out split 3's .. odd how that happens.
Last edited:
awthorn
New member
So for the before and after pics..
Front Brakes After
Front Brakes Before
The new stance with the spider trax, Not too bad. I was worried it would poke out too much and look all bro truck. LOL
I had to do some trimming as I was getting a little but of rubbing on my front valance. The trimming didn't turn out too bad for using a box cutter.
The look before
Front Brakes After
Front Brakes Before
The new stance with the spider trax, Not too bad. I was worried it would poke out too much and look all bro truck. LOL
I had to do some trimming as I was getting a little but of rubbing on my front valance. The trimming didn't turn out too bad for using a box cutter.
The look before
awthorn
New member
So, I figure it is high time i updated my build thread with what I have been working on for the past couple months. My Dual Swing out tube bumper.
This is only going to be short info on what my thoughts were at the time along with some images.
I decided to build my bumper off the base of a hitch. Here i am seeing what it will take to clear and get the highest clearance possible. In this case flipping the hitch and cutting some.
Cut made
Mounted up nice and high
One of the hinges from 4x Innovations
Side support tabs being burned in
tire mount being cut from 1/4" plate
welded in the center connection spot for the bent tube
notching and welding up the side supports
a quick rattle can to keep the rust off
Mocking up hinge mounting
welded up and ready to burn on the tube.
This is only going to be short info on what my thoughts were at the time along with some images.
I decided to build my bumper off the base of a hitch. Here i am seeing what it will take to clear and get the highest clearance possible. In this case flipping the hitch and cutting some.
Cut made
Mounted up nice and high
One of the hinges from 4x Innovations
Side support tabs being burned in
tire mount being cut from 1/4" plate
welded in the center connection spot for the bent tube
notching and welding up the side supports
a quick rattle can to keep the rust off
Mocking up hinge mounting
welded up and ready to burn on the tube.
awthorn
New member
Testing how sturdy it is
Tacking up the second tier
second tier welded up
more paint
not too shabby of a weld for just having picked up welding a couple months ago
first arm welded to the sleeve
arms welded up and latching system "figured" out
tire carrier
high-lift mount
So what is next is the other swing arm with dual jerry can holders and to figure out a licence plate mount.
buccaneerbandit
New member
Fl
Nice to see another FL 4runner. Great work so far.
Nice to see another FL 4runner. Great work so far.
awthorn
New member
Thanks bud, there are a good number of us. I run Florida 4runners ( FB Group) and we have about 500 members. Go to http://florida4runners.com and it will re-direct ya to the page.
What welder are you using? looking in the background on one of your pictures I think I may have actually just ordered the same one. Is it a 120V unit? Just wondering about the double pass welds.
Looks great for just picking it up, hopefully mine end up looking that good, lol.
Looks great for just picking it up, hopefully mine end up looking that good, lol.
awthorn
New member
It is the Hobart Handler 140. I love this little guy!
Most of the multipass welds i have are tripple passed. It does 3/16th in a single pass without trouble and if you preheat 1/4" you can get away with a single pass. The tire mount is 1/4" plate and it welded to the 1/8th 2x2 tubing with a single pass where the 1/4" plate was preheated with a propane torch. It did so well it even kind of sucked the 2x2 tubing in some.
Nice, good to hear you like it and its handling everything fine....maybe I didn't need a 220V unit, lol.
I ended up buying a factory refurbished 190 which is supposed to be here Monday. It was within $50 of a new 140 and the refurbished units have great reviews and the same warranty so decided to go for it. One of my best friends is an electrician and I have plenty of room in my panel so adding a 220 plug to the garage isn't a big deal.
Still need to buy a helmet, cheap HF table, and some other stuff but hoping to start messing with it after Christmas.
Any tips or tricks for learning? I did some stick and MIG welding in college but that was like 12-14 years ago and I wasn't using an auto darkening helmet so it was a ***** to start the stick arc. I was planning on just watching youtube videos and practicing on scrap, if that doesn't work maybe take a tech school class or buy a buddy a case of beer for some help.
