SAS info/advice needed

[IBallEngineer]

OH, I get it now. Yeah, I don't like it! I guess it would work, but it seems like too many parts. Before I did mine, there was a guy in Canada doing the conversions, I sent him my knuckles but 3 months later he had done nothing, so I asked for them back. I spent around $2500 to have my knuckled and arms machined and drilled. That included a 1 ton Chevy tie rod with ends. I don't remember if I supplied the drag link or he did. In total I spent several months to build my 80 axles which gave me far superior brakes, hi pinion front, full floater rear and 3" of extra width. I just don't see any of that making sense for a 3rd gen though.

 

[IBallEngineer]

there is no bump steer as long as the panhard bar and drag link are the same length and parallel. obviously this would be for a linked setup.

When the angle of the drag link is too steep, the up and down movement of the suspension will have the tendency to push or pull the drag link, causing the vehicle to steer. Uneven angles between the drag link and panhard bar are another way of inducing bump steer. Length is less critical if the geometry is correct. Take a look at a Jeep with those funky Z shaped track bars and the drag link intersecting 3/4 of the way into the tie rod. It's amazing that it can work at all. But I guess someone has figured it out.

In my post I was referring to the VERY steep angle the drag link would have to have to steer the low mounted tie rod on an FJ80 axle. you could conceivably make a panhard rod match the geometry, but that kind of angle would most likely still create bump steer.

 

[csp]

Take a look at a Jeep with those funky Z shaped track bars and the drag link intersecting 3/4 of the way into the tie rod. It's amazing that it can work at all. But I guess someone has figured it out.

It's all snake oil. Regardless of the bend and shapes the deciding factor is still a straight line drawn from one end of a link to the other. No amount of Z-bends or other crazy shapes will ever change that.

In my post I was referring to the VERY steep angle the drag link would have to have to steer the low mounted tie rod on an FJ80 axle. you could conceivably make a panhard rod match the geometry, but that kind of angle would most likely still create bump steer.

x2!

 

[mmml4]

I must be very lucky because I drive mine almost daily across a set of diagonal railroad tracks at hwy speed and there is no movement.

I used the Land Cruiser panhard and drag link and I have no problems. The reason I went with the Land Cruiser stuff is, it's an upgrade in all respects from my perspective. You have much better brakes disc front and rear a birfield that is 30% larger than the mini truck axle and additional width that allows you to run stock back spaced wheels with no wheel spacers and the t-case is beef and a full float rear if you want to load the hell out of it. It was a lot of extra work but if that's what you want well there you go.

 

[mmml4]

Would a mini truck axle better suit me?I can get a mini truck axle(minus 1 knuckle)for $125.or a complete mini truck axle with a set of ifs hubs for about $400.I actually have a set of high steer arms from a mini truck I was gonna build.

Check out LINY4runner's build, he used a mini truck axle.

 

[Asaspades93]

Check out LINY4runner's build, he used a mini truck axle.

As far as I remember he still hasn't figured his death wobble out. I was actually lucky enough to meet him when I was back living in NY

 

[IBallEngineer]

I must be very lucky because I drive mine almost daily across a set of diagonal railroad tracks at hwy speed and there is no movement.

I used the Land Cruiser panhard and drag link and I have no problems. The reason I went with the Land Cruiser stuff is, it's an upgrade in all respects from my perspective. You have much better brakes disc front and rear a birfield that is 30% larger than the mini truck axle and additional width that allows you to run stock back spaced wheels with no wheel spacers and the t-case is beef and a full float rear if you want to load the hell out of it. It was a lot of extra work but if that's what you want well there you go.

You could be lucky, or maybe it just works. Love to see the pictures of the angles! How high is your truck? Remember with leaf springs I'm way up there on the FJ62.

 

[Brino1]

Bought a complete mini truck axle,complete rear 86 4Runner axle(for sale),ifs hubs(86 4Runner) and a set of 31's on steelies for $400

 

[mmml4]

Frame to ground under drivers door is about 20 1/2 inches.

 

[mmml4]

You could be lucky, or maybe it just works. Love to see the pictures of the angles! How high is your truck? Remember with leaf springs I'm way up there on the FJ62.

I started out going with leafs but quickly learned at that time there was no good steering solution so I went with the stock coils.

 

[IBallEngineer]

I started out going with leafs but quickly learned at that time there was no good steering solution so I went with the stock coils.

Yes, I see how it works for you. I revise my earlier stance now, modified to say that as long as you don't lift too high, you'll be fine with the properly aligned track bar and drag link. I stand corrected!

:whip2:

 

[white_n_slow]

That is a very tidy looking conversion :cheers: