SAS ride quality?

[4RunnerChaos]

Hey guys, looking for people who have SAS'D their rigs to chime in on how their ride quality is.
As much info about your rigs would also be appreciated such as which Axel diff wheels size of tires armor etc. Pretty much anything that affects weight.
Cost of swap and what shortcuts you took, and would you do it again, recommend it to a friend, or would you have taken a different approach?
Thanks in advance.

Oh and coils or leaf?

 

[IBallEngineer]

Hey guys, looking for people who have SAS'D their rigs to chime in on how their ride quality is.
As much info about your rigs would also be appreciated such as which Axel diff wheels size of tires armor etc. Pretty much anything that affects weight.
Cost of swap and what shortcuts you took, and would you do it again, recommend it to a friend, or would you have taken a different approach?
Thanks in advance.

Oh and coils or leaf?

OK, so I've done one 1st gen with leafs, ride quality, not so much.

I did two Nissan Frontiers with coilovers. Ride quality was better, but that wasn't the object so it wasn't all about ride quality. Rather the spring rates were selected to give some off road capability, without being so soft that either ride height or body roll was sacrificed. All the vehicles I've set up use ARB or similar bumpers up front, like shrockworks on the Nissans. Logically there were other things that added to the weight, thus affecting driveability.

Bottom line here is there is no perfect setup, everything is a some sort of compromise. My own rig is leaf sprung, rugged and dependable, but not the best of all worlds. Still I daily drove it for years.

The handling on a SAS is nothing like an independant. Even a washboard road will test your patience at times, compared to the stock setup. But on the trail the table is turned, just no comparison.

Cost vary tremendously. The first Frontier I did had about 9K in parts alone, all pretty much new using a Wagonneer front axle housing, D44. The second Frontier was much cheaper, probably less then $3500 with all used parts except the front driveshaft, and things like brakes, and lines.

The 1st Gen Toyota was first class, will a lot of All pro stuff and cryo axles shafts. I'm thinking that was around 5K using a housing the owner supplied. None of these numbers include the labor I had in doing the conversion. I expect my runner to run in the 7-10K range with a 3 link and coilovers, diamond axle, elocker etc.

Hope that helps, I'm sure someone here will have some more direct experience on the 3rd gens.

:thumb:

 

[4RunnerChaos]

OK, so I've done one 1st gen with leafs, ride quality, not so much.

I did two Nissan Frontiers with coilovers. Ride quality was better, but that wasn't the object so it wasn't all about ride quality. Rather the spring rates were selected to give some off road capability, without being so soft that either ride height or body roll was sacrificed. All the vehicles I've set up use ARB or similar bumpers up front, like shrockworks on the Nissans. Logically there were other things that added to the weight, thus affecting driveability.

Bottom line here is there is no perfect setup, everything is a some sort of compromise. My own rig is leaf sprung, rugged and dependable, but not the best of all worlds. Still I daily drove it for years.

The handling on a SAS is nothing like an independant. Even a washboard road will test your patience at times, compared to the stock setup. But on the trail the table is turned, just no comparison.

Cost vary tremendously. The first Frontier I did had about 9K in parts alone, all pretty much new using a Wagonneer front axle housing, D44. The second Frontier was much cheaper, probably less then $3500 with all used parts except the front driveshaft, and things like brakes, and lines.

The 1st Gen Toyota was first class, will a lot of All pro stuff and cryo axles shafts. I'm thinking that was around 5K using a housing the owner supplied. None of these numbers include the labor I had in doing the conversion. I expect my runner to run in the 7-10K range with a 3 link and coilovers, diamond axle, elocker etc.

Hope that helps, I'm sure someone here will have some more direct experience on the 3rd gens.

:thumb:

Anything helps I'm just trying to collect as much info as I possibly can theres a lot of different options out there.

I'd rather know exactly what I'm getting into instead of regretting something or being disappointed later.

 

[mmml4]

This is what I have just in my front end not counting any labor or welding supplies. Please note I am using stock Land Cruiser coil springs. This also does not include the several hundred dollars spent to rebuild the steering knuckles, wheel bearings and tie rod ends. Who knows how many cans of paint.

I would say my truck rides really well.

Parts that have a 0 are parts that I made or was given scrap.

Front axle 1000
Cruiser bushings 80
Johnny Joints 160
Frame brackets, Lower Links 40
Frame bracket, Upper Links 20
Panhard bracket, axle 20
Panhard bracket, frame 25
Axle bracket, Lower Links 60
Axle bracket, Upper Links 30
Coil buckets 60
Coil perches 35
Shock tabs/tower 30
Steering box 75
Steering shaft misc 15
Shocks 70
Ladder Bar Adjusters 40
UL & LL Bolts/Nuts/Washers 80
Upper Link DOM Round Tubing 30
Upper Link Threaded Insert 20
Lower Links, Square Tubing 0
Lower Links, Lefthand Inserts 0
UL & LL Bushing Sleeves 0
Stainless Braided Brake Lines 80
Hard Brake Lines 20
Frame Plating Material 0
Limit Strap Mounts 100
Limit Straps 50
Coil Springs (pair) 30
Power Steering Cooler 50
Front Drive Shaft 70


TOTAL 2290

 

[IBallEngineer]

This is what I have just in my front end not counting any labor or welding supplies. Please note I am using stock Land Cruiser coil springs. This also does not include the several hundred dollars spent to rebuild the steering knuckles, wheel bearings and tie rod ends. Who knows how many cans of paint.

I would say my truck rides really well.

Parts that have a 0 are parts that I made or was given scrap.

Front axle 1000
Cruiser bushings 80
Johnny Joints 160
Frame brackets, Lower Links 40
Frame bracket, Upper Links 20
Panhard bracket, axle 20
Panhard bracket, frame 25
Axle bracket, Lower Links 60
Axle bracket, Upper Links 30
Coil buckets 60
Coil perches 35
Shock tabs/tower 30
Steering box 75
Steering shaft misc 15
Shocks 70
Ladder Bar Adjusters 40
UL & LL Bolts/Nuts/Washers 80
Upper Link DOM Round Tubing 30
Upper Link Threaded Insert 20
Lower Links, Square Tubing 0
Lower Links, Lefthand Inserts 0
UL & LL Bushing Sleeves 0
Stainless Braided Brake Lines 80
Hard Brake Lines 20
Frame Plating Material 0
Limit Strap Mounts 100
Limit Straps 50
Coil Springs (pair) 30
Power Steering Cooler 50
Front Drive Shaft 70


TOTAL 2290

$1000 for a left hand drop axle already geared? Cool deal!!:hippie:

 

[mmml4]

$1000 for a left hand drop axle already geared? Cool deal!!:hippie:

80 series Land Cruiser axle, right hand drop.

 

[4RunnerChaos]

$1000 for a left hand drop axle already geared? Cool deal!!:hippie:

Sorry for the stupid question, but left hand drop is with pumpkin on the left hand side right?

 

[JayRolla]

Ohh the SAS and washboard. I love waiting at the trail head for 30 minutes while all the solid axle guys show up. Fun stuff.

 

[JWaldz]

80 series Land Cruiser axle, right hand drop.

It took going to your build thread to figure out how you used an 80 axle and then I found the page with your trans swap. Liking it? Worth the extra work? Lol

Sorry for the stupid question, but left hand drop is with pumpkin on the left hand side right?

Correct. Typical for our rigs is a driver (lefty) drop axle. Transfer case is on that side.

 

[UnderFire]

If you've never driven something with a solid front axle before, I'd suggest finding a way to take a spin in one before commiting to anything, it's a completely different experience than driving something with coilover IFS.

 

[4RunnerChaos]

If you've never driven something with a solid front axle before, I'd suggest finding a way to take a spin in one before commiting to anything, it's a completely different experience than driving something with coilover IFS.

I haven't owned anything with solid front... And you are definitely right. I am gonna talk to a buddy of mine that has an old ram2500 to take me out on some country roads.
Or just through my city, terrible roads.... Lol

 

[mmml4]

It took going to your build thread to figure out how you used an 80 axle and then I found the page with your trans swap. Liking it? Worth the extra work? Lol

It was a total pain in the ass but that is what I wanted. I have always wanted an 80 series land Cruiser and that was as close as I could get.

As far ride quality, solid axle on leafs vs solid axle on coils is two different things. Granted it's not near as good as my sons 97 but it's not bad.

 

[JWaldz]

It was a total pain in the ass but that is what I wanted. I have always wanted an 80 series land Cruiser and that was as close as I could get.

As far ride quality, solid axle on leafs vs solid axle on coils is two different things. Granted it's not near as good as my sons 97 but it's not bad.

I bet.. Going through your build I think it would have been easier putting a 4runner body on a cruiser frame haha. Oh, well.. You got it to work so that's what matters. Good job and nice rig!

 

[cclhuzhou]

I love waiting at the trail head for 30 minutes while all the solid axle guys show up.

 

[JayRolla]

To add to this thread my neighbor is selling his mid 80's solid axle 37" tire Toyota solid axle truck. First thing he said was you dont want this if driving far. He said its so bad you must trailer it unless going to very close trails. He admitted its why he was getting rid of it cause he cant trailer it everywhere.

 

[Dous]

The more money you dump into it the better it will ride in theory, unless you are not smart :

I can go just as fast in mine on washboards as I did when I had IFS. It does have a lot of body roll though, needs a swaybar but I am too lazy and poor now!

 

[Kurtis]

Leafs are easier and cheaper to setup but won't ride as nice. Links are far more expensive and more difficult to setup but will ride a lot better. The only reason to go with a straight axle is for the improved reliability on the trail.

Swap prices differ by quite a bit depending on if you do it yourself or pay someone to do it. The standard swap is somewhere around 6-7k and is a pretty good starting point.

While I am all for folks throwing money at the sport and supporting offroad companies, make damn sure a straight axle is what you want. I've seen lots of folks do a SAS and then sell there rig because it wasn't as streetable anymore.

 

[IBallEngineer]

Leafs are easier and cheaper to setup but won't ride as nice. Links are far more expensive and more difficult to setup but will ride a lot better. The only reason to go with a straight axle is for the improved reliability on the trail.

Swap prices differ by quite a bit depending on if you do it yourself or pay someone to do it. The standard swap is somewhere around 6-7k and is a pretty good starting point.

While I am all for folks throwing money at the sport and supporting offroad companies, make damn sure a straight axle is what you want. I've seen lots of folks do a SAS and then sell there rig because it wasn't as streetable anymore.

The straight axle itself doesn't make a vehicle unstreetable, its how they set up the suspension. That isn't news to anyone, but the bottom line is one must know what they want and expect, and build it accordingly.

 

[Kurtis]

The straight axle itself doesn't make a vehicle unstreetable, its how they set up the suspension. That isn't news to anyone, but the bottom line is one must know what they want and expect, and build it accordingly.

True. However, my statement still applies. Guys get into a rig and want a SAS. They pay for what they thought was going to be a unicorn and it just turns out to be a unicorn with a plunger on it's head.

 

[IBallEngineer]

True. However, my statement still applies. Guys get into a rig and want a SAS. They pay for what they thought was going to be a unicorn and it just turns out to be a unicorn with a plunger on it's head.

Yes, it's not for everyone, and unfortunately people get in to it not knowing how to make it something they can live with. They see a rock buggy with hydro steer and they think they need it. Happens a lot in the jeep world. Everything involves some compromise, if they aren't aware of that going in, they have no business going there.