Scangauge trans temp?

the 05+ V6 use different codes than the 03-04 v6

Any idea what the 05+ codes are? I saw for pre-05 and for 10+ but we seem to be missing the 05-09 if there are indeed different codes.

Here are 2 more to try that I found on Tacoma World. I'll try them in the morning and see if either work.

" Thank you for your inquiry. Currently, transmission temperature is only available for Ford, GM and some VW vehicles via the X-Gauge feature. The X-Gauge comes standard on the ScanGauge II and allows you to program extra gauges into your unit for your vehicle. Our engineers have found two codes in order for the ScanGauge II to display transmission temperature for Toyota vehicles, however they are very experimental so there is a possiblility that the codes may not work.

TXD: 686AF101B4
RXF: 044105B4
RXD: 2010
MTH: 000703E8FFD8
NAM: TFT

or

TXD: 68 6A F1 01 B4
RXF: 04 41 05 B4 00 00
RXD: 28 08
MTH: 00 09 00 05 FF D8
NAME: ATF
 
Last edited:
alright guys I updated the first post with the verified codes for the 05 and newer 4Runners. Thanks guys for checking those out!
 
Now that people are finding it works what kind of temps are you getting? I think I need a larger cooler since I haul my trailer over Colorado high passes.
 
Now that people are finding it works what kind of temps are you getting? I think I need a larger cooler since I haul my trailer over Colorado high passes.

I watch my temps like a hawk, even when not towing.

What I try to do is keep the temp below 200 as much as I can. The most important thing to do is to not put it in D when you are climbing a steep hill. Having the shifter in D will cause it to constantly shift back and forth and the trans temp will shoot up.

Even on a long climb (like I-70 heading West from Denver or heading East up from Silverthorne to the Eisenhower Tunnel) I can usually keep it under 220. The key is to shift manually before the transmission shifts automatically.

Highest trans temps I've ever seen were 260 but that was only for a few minutes. Not surprisingly, this occurred when I was pulling a trailer and climbing out of Death Valley in July (outside temp on the floor of Death Valley was 113.)

I have heard that trans fluid starts to break down after sustained temps of 240 degrees or more. I don't know if that's true or not of modern transmissions, but either way, "under 200" is what I always strive for.

I don't think a momentary spike up to 240 or even 260 degrees is necessarily fatal, but I certainly would try to avoid it if at all possible.

Interestingly, even when I was climbing out of Death Valley and the trans temp hit 260, the "Trans fluid temp" light never came on. I don't know how hot it has to be to turn on, and I don't really want to find out.
 
I watch my temps like a hawk, even when not towing.

What I try to do is keep the temp below 200 as much as I can. The most important thing to do is to not put it in D when you are climbing a steep hill. Having the shifter in D will cause it to constantly shift back and forth and the trans temp will shoot up.

Even on a long climb (like I-70 heading West from Denver or heading East up from Silverthorne to the Eisenhower Tunnel) I can usually keep it under 220. The key is to shift manually before the transmission shifts automatically.

Highest trans temps I've ever seen were 260 but that was only for a few minutes. Not surprisingly, this occurred when I was pulling a trailer and climbing out of Death Valley in July (outside temp on the floor of Death Valley was 113.)

I have heard that trans fluid starts to break down after sustained temps of 240 degrees or more. I don't know if that's true or not of modern transmissions, but either way, "under 200" is what I always strive for.

I don't think a momentary spike up to 240 or even 260 degrees is necessarily fatal, but I certainly would try to avoid it if at all possible.

Interestingly, even when I was climbing out of Death Valley and the trans temp hit 260, the "Trans fluid temp" light never came on. I don't know how hot it has to be to turn on, and I don't really want to find out.

According to the FSM the light should come on at 239 degrees.
 
According to the FSM the light should come on at 239 degrees.

Interesting because I've been over 239 a number of times and I've never seen it come on.

I wonder where the sensor is that the Scangauge is reading? Maybe the Scangauge is reading the sensor at a different place than the temp gauge?
 
Interesting because I've been over 239 a number of times and I've never seen it come on.

I wonder where the sensor is that the Scangauge is reading? Maybe the Scangauge is reading the sensor at a different place than the temp gauge?

There's 2 sensors for the fluid temp. Sensor #1 and #2 is what they list them as. They are both internal and very close to each other. I believe one does input temp and the other does output. I have never broken down one of these transmissions to put my own eyes on it though.
One of my scan tools will pick up both sensors. They do fluctuate temps between the 2. Now that I have 2 ways of determining the fluid temp I will be able to find out which one the Scangauge uses. I wish I could plug them both in at the same time!
 
According to the FSM the light should come on at 239 degrees.

One a recent trip over the high passes in CO with my trailer mine read 257 for a few minutes, no light which is why I'm curious about where it's reading and the accuracy of the read-out.

Now that I have 2 ways of determining the fluid temp I will be able to find out which one the Scangauge uses.

Looking forward to your info!
 
There's 2 sensors for the fluid temp. Sensor #1 and #2 is what they list them as. They are both internal and very close to each other. I believe one does input temp and the other does output. I have never broken down one of these transmissions to put my own eyes on it though.
One of my scan tools will pick up both sensors. They do fluctuate temps between the 2. Now that I have 2 ways of determining the fluid temp I will be able to find out which one the Scangauge uses. I wish I could plug them both in at the same time!

Ah, this may explain something else I've noticed: I had an external trans cooler put in last year but I have noticed no difference in the displayed temps on the SG. Could it be that the SG is reading a sensor where the hot fluid comes out of the tranny before it goes into the cooler, and the light on the dash reads the fluid where it comes in from the cooler after being cooled? That could explain why even at 260 degrees the light didn't come on - if the cooler was doing it's job, perhaps the fluid had already cooled down to < 239 degrees before it came back into the transmission?
 
Ah, this may explain something else I've noticed: I had an external trans cooler put in last year but I have noticed no difference in the displayed temps on the SG. Could it be that the SG is reading a sensor where the hot fluid comes out of the tranny before it goes into the cooler, and the light on the dash reads the fluid where it comes in from the cooler after being cooled? That could explain why even at 260 degrees the light didn't come on - if the cooler was doing it's job, perhaps the fluid had already cooled down to < 239 degrees before it came back into the transmission?

I'll run some tests tomorrow to help us narrow it down hopefully.
 
Ah, this may explain something else I've noticed: I had an external trans cooler put in last year but I have noticed no difference in the displayed temps on the SG. Could it be that the SG is reading a sensor where the hot fluid comes out of the tranny before it goes into the cooler, and the light on the dash reads the fluid where it comes in from the cooler after being cooled? That could explain why even at 260 degrees the light didn't come on - if the cooler was doing it's job, perhaps the fluid had already cooled down to < 239 degrees before it came back into the transmission?

i'm not 100% sure on this, but could it be that your trans cooler lines are installed backwards on the cooler? one way in one way out for the cooler
 
******UPDATED******
Alright guys, I went ahead and bought the gauge and gave it a try. After some searching around different forums for tundras, tacomas, 4runners, etc. I found that this code for the 03-04 4runner 4.0 with the 4spd DOES IN FACT WORK! From talking with linear logic (Manufacturer of the scan gauge II) they said it should work with anyone running the firmware 4.06 or newer. If you dont have the newer firmware you can send it it and for $25 they will upgrade your unit.

TXD: 686AF101B4
RXF: 044105B40000
RXD: 2808
MTH: 00090005FFD8


This is the code that should work on the 2005 and newer 4Runners:
Well a little more digging came up with this directly from the Scangauge xgauge support site.

Just used this on my 2004. Worked perfect.
 

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