Scary off road experience

So today I went off roading which I have never had a problem while doing. Well today I went through a bigger mud pit than I have ever tried driving through and something crazy/scary happened and I am wondering if it is normal.

So as I got into the pit (Im in 4WD) i accelerated of course to avoid getting stuck in the sticky GA red clay. Well I started to head the traction control beep as i was getting towards the end of the pit and then it cut all of the power I have to the gas pedal. I then spun around a complete 90 degrees with no power to accelerate out of it.

Is this normal for the 4WD systems? It really freaked me out and I do not plan on going anywhere near mud again until I install the traction control delete switch.

Any input if appreciated.

Thanks! -Joe

Your Toyota has a traction control system. I work very well on a snow covered road but I don't like it for off-roading. There is a button you can press on the cash that will give you 4 wheel drive as opposed to all wheel drive. There is also away to unplug a wire harness. I believe it is around the ABS control around the brake master cylinder.
 
I bet the cash war guys love you! Does the door seals hold out the mud & water well? I haven't hit a large enough mud yet.

door seals work amazingly. the doors are designed with drain holes in the bottom these will alow water to flow in as well as out. behind your door panel though the door is seal with RTV sealant and a plastic sheet so the only places mud really gets that can be a issue is in the bottom of the doors but you can flush it out just pry back the window seal (with something soft not a screwdriver) and hose it out.

If your running a V6 the engines are sealed pretty tight no worries that im aware of and your timing, is chain drivin so its not gonna jump timing if you get mud or gunk in it. If your running a V8 keep in mind that the timing is drivin by a belt as well the timing housing isn't sealed so well with plastic covers and holes for sensor wires water isnt really an issue getting into the timing housing but thick mud/debree can cause your timing belt to jump the crank pully or one of the cam pully's If it jumps 10-15 degrees you'll just have miss firing issues until you reset the belt if it jumps further than that your looking at Major engine failure due to valve interference with the pistons (don't let this scare you you'd be just as lucky to have a water pump leak coolant on the timing belt causing it to slip or jump timing) Just something to be aware of.

after having recent timing issues after running a mud bog im looking into sealing up the timing housing the few holes and the plastic covers don't seem to hard to plug up but there ia a large opening under the crank pully cover that will take some rigging to seal.
 
Your Toyota has a traction control system. I work very well on a snow covered road but I don't like it for off-roading. There is a button you can press on the cash that will give you 4 wheel drive as opposed to all wheel drive. There is also away to unplug a wire harness. I believe it is around the ABS control around the brake master cylinder.

check out post #20 its not a 4 wheel drive button its a Transfer case locker. The 4runners run an open center transfer case allowing all wheel driving to transfer power 60/40 70/30 etc.. between the front an rear axles. When you lock your transfer case it simply sends 50% power to each axle. Your limited slip differentials take over from there transfering power between wheels If one spins it trys to send power to the opposite side but if you pick a wheel up the wheel with less friction is going to be doing all the turning unless you install a locking differential. I wouldnt advise unplugging wiring harness's there's better methods to disabling your vehicles stability and traction control system.
 
check out post #20 its not a 4 wheel drive button its a Transfer case locker. The 4runners run an open center transfer case allowing all wheel driving to transfer power 60/40 70/30 etc.. between the front an rear axles. When you lock your transfer case it simply sends 50% power to each axle. Your limited slip differentials take over from there transfering power between wheels If one spins it trys to send power to the opposite side but if you pick a wheel up the wheel with less friction is going to be doing all the turning unless you install a locking differential. I wouldnt advise unplugging wiring harness's there's better methods to disabling your vehicles stability and traction control system.

Actually the "transfer case" is a T3 differential; it is a very good setup. In the V8 you are in "all wheel" drive all the time. In the V6 you can select "all wheel drive". Once you lock the center differential you would be in 4 wheel drive.

Torsen - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 
Actually the "transfer case" is a T3 differential; it is a very good setup. In the V8 you are in "all wheel" drive all the time. In the V6 you can select "all wheel drive". Once you lock the center differential you would be in 4 wheel drive.

Torsen - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia[/QUOTE

sorry your first post seemed a bit off. its still a damn transfer case lol

Bottom line is this center differential/transfer case is a very very good. It is the electronic traction control that is usually the issue. If they had a switch where you can completely shut if off that would be a good thing.

Usually you think of a transfer case just transfer or splits the power equally, but there are transfer cases that can differentiate power.

Usually a differential can send different amounts of power from one side to the other, but they can be locked.
 
Bottom line is this center differential/transfer case is a very very good. It is the electronic traction control that is usually the issue. If they had a switch where you can completely shut if off that would be a good thing.

Usually you think of a transfer case just transfer or splits the power equally, but there are transfer cases that can differentiate power.

Usually a differential can send different amounts of power from one side to the other, but they can be locked.

No dout yo! Theres a bunch of threads on how to shut off the stability control systems in these trucks. One guy spoke of wiring a switch into the wire you spoke of removing. I just unplugged my O2 sensors. Don't think it matters how you do it.
 
No dout yo! Theres a bunch of threads on how to shut off the stability control systems in these trucks. One guy spoke of wiring a switch into the wire you spoke of removing. I just unplugged my O2 sensors. Don't think it matters how you do it.

Would be nice if there was a switch from the factory. Wire harnesses are expensive, I hate cutting them. Every time I cut a wire, or install a switch it this increase the chance for another short or switch to fail.
 
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