Scary vibration at 60+ mph and while braking

Tundra9er

New member
Okay quick background...I bought a 2000 4Runner Limited about 3-4 weeks ago from someone roughly 4 hours away driving time. Brakes felt weak but the drive home was fine (highway speeds mostly). Got the car home and did the large Tundra upgrade on front replacing all rotors/pads/calipers (Centric Rotors/Hawk Pads/Remand Calipers). While I was at it, I also replaced rear shoes with OEM and the drums appeared in good shape, albeit dirty from the seal leaking (they cleaned up fine). I also replaced both rear axle seals along with the bearings/retainers/etc and had Toyota stealership press the axles so it was done right.

Fast forward a few days ago and I begin to drive the car around town at speeds up to 50 mph = No vibration, brakes seem good, no weird noises, nothing out of the ordinary.

I then move to highway and get to about 60-65 and within a few minutes on the highway (roughly 15 minutes of total driving) the truck begins to vibrate in the rear. It then begins to quickly move up the car into the front and within 15 seconds, the whole dang truck is shaking like crazy...I mean the whole truck feels like its going to fall apart, like driving on those shoulder bumps u see on the highways.

I start freaking out, I begin braking to slow down the truck and the vibration gets EVEN worse haha, the truck is rattling my brain on the highway. SO i slow down thinking maybe its the speed, but it continues to shake violently until I stop the car completely. Once it's stopped...I get out, check everything for about 2 minutes on the side of the highway, get back in, and it drives nice and smooth....like nothing ever happened.

I then get it back up to 50 mph and all is well including the braking. Once I hit 60+mph, it all goes to hell again. I have replicated this over and over at speeds of about 60+mph:

-Stop and go traffic up to 50+- mph No problems with anything including braking
-Highway speeds 60+ mph the thing shakes like an addict looking for a fix
-Braking while it is vibrating causes even MORE vibration
-Heavy brake burning smell coming from rear when this occurs, as though the drums are somehow locking up at high speed even without being pressed

What's got me concerned is that when I originally bought it and drove 400 miles at highway speeds, it did not vibrate at all. I have not done anything to the wheels/tires except remove them to change out the brakes and put them right back on, so I can't see this being a balance/alignment issue with the wheels.

I'm leaning toward the drum brakes being the culprit but I can't imagine what would cause this issue at highway speeds but not at stop and go speeds that is directly brake related. Like why not occur at ALL speeds if it's brake related?

I know the vibration thing with 4Runners has been beat to death but I feel like the combination of bad vibration at 60+mph and braking makes this a bit of an odd duck. When I let up the gas at those speeds after its begun to shake, it does NOT make the shake go away. Only stopping the truck completely will almost "reset" it. I cannot literally drive this thing over 60 mph for fear of how bad it vibrates/shakes at those speeds.

Could it be related to possible heat buildup in the drums that only occurs at those high speeds?

I'm going to take the drums off tomorrow and just check inside to see if anything looks odd but I have no leaks anywhere and braking seems to be fine as long as I stay under 60 mph (and even above 60 mph the brakes work..they just shake the truck like hell!)

Any thoughts on what it could be?

-Out of balance wheel? Ehh maybe but the problem only started when I changed the brakes all around not prior to
-Alignment issues? Once again no problems 3 weeks ago during a 400 mile ride before brakes were changed
-Rotors warped? Maybe..but they were both brand new along with pads and calipers so its seem unlikely
-Drums worn? Drums seemed fine, no lip and plenty of thickness
-Shoes worn? Shoes are OEM Toyota and brand new
-Rear drum back plate? Toyota tech did recommend i replace both back plates (at $100 a piece) as he said they looked "beat up" but I had no problems installing the shoes and they didn't seem beat up at all..maybe the shoes are rubbing the back plates FWIW, I did grease the wear spots on the back plates that the shoes had previously rubbed
-Some other rear brake issues? I can't think of any...
-Wheel Bearings going bad? Replaced both sides just the other day
-Something totally unrelated?

**Update 1**

Well we jacked up the rear and put the truck in drive to see what it would do. Driver side rear wheel seemed fine for the most part, nothing out of balance or anything concerning. We then blocked that wheel and let the passenger rear wheel spin for a bit and noticed a heavy ticking sound coming from what sounded like just behind the back plate as it spun in drive at "idle speed". I then pressed the gas and got it up to about 60 mph while on jacks and the ticking sounds increased in intensity and speed with the acceleration.

We took the passenger rear wheel off and took off the drums and noticed nothing inside out of the ordinary. All parts were clean, drums and shoes seem to be even, no unusual wear or marks. We messed with the overall passenger side brake setup/axle to see if there was any play and there was a tiny bit when pushing the axle in and pulling it out..maybe the width of a dime or nickle if i had to guess. I'm not sure if this is normal for 4runners or if there should be absolutely NO play in it at all.

My buddy who was helping suspects the noise MAY be coming from the axle or the wheel bearing. He suspects MAYBE the axle was bent while at the dealership (dropped or fell over possibly). I'm not sure if that kind of thing can bend the axle but I suppose it's possible. As I stated before the bearings are brand new and were pressed on by Toyota so It COULD be a faulty bearing but I'm still in denial about that for now.

Right now its still jacked up and got too late to continue diagnosing but we'll look at it more tomorrow. I spoke with a few mechanic friends of mine and they are pointing (based on the above story) to the problem being 100% drivetrain related (rear end, axles, bearings, u-joints, drive shaft, something) and not brake related. I'll update with more information as we look further into the problem. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions thus far.

**Update 2**

Okay okay, i finally figured it out and feel a bit stupid, but that's fine because it cost me $0 to fix it. It ended up being something as simple as torquing the wheels correctly. Yep...I went back on all the wheels, loosened all the lug nuts, and retorqued them all in the star pattern with the proper torque setting (83lbs) and viola, no more rattle at high speeds. I even got up to about 80 for about 45 min the other day and no vibration from the rear. I have a little steering wheel vibration at high speeds but that could be a number of things and i'm not that worried about it. I thought for a while it couldn't be as simple as that but alas it was. Just glad i checked that first before i started replacing random parts. Thanks all for the help.
 
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driveshaft.....sorry didnt see where you are getting the brake smell.

Yeah, maybe something is locking up back there....maybe a bad brake hose causing it to grab. I had similar symptoms last year and changed everything..even the rear end and it ended up being the driveshaft. I didn't have any braking issues though.
 
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driveshaft.....sorry didnt see where you are getting the brake smell.

Yeah, maybe something is locking up back there....maybe a bad brake hose causing it to grab. I had similar symptoms last year and changed everything..even the rear end and it ended up being the driveshaft. I didn't have any braking issues though.

Thanks for the suggestion. I for sure won't discount the driveshaft, BUT once again it didn't occur at all during the initial drive home and only began once I changed the brakes and rear seals, which is why I'm so focused on it being related to those. I also changed all 3 diff fluids (front, transfer, rear), but I can't see how that would cause this in any way.
 
When the dealership did the rear axle seals, do you think they had to remove the driveshaft and then lined it back up improperly?
 
I think I would pull the drums off and make sure the pads still look ok. Might have some dirt or maybe some broken pad in there that is causing them to grab. I am going through something different right now, think I have little pieces of brake "thread" (asbestos fibers?) getting logged in the rears that causes binding until it breaks free. I pulled my rear drums off the other day shook the stuff in there out and put it back, and my binding went away. Now it is back though.

I am assuming you didn't get the drums turned? Are you sure they are true? If pads were dragging and causing overheating could have caused the drums to warp. Are you torquing wheels/parts to spec with torque wrench? Could be warping parts. I know on front wheels I always have problems with stupid garages using those stupid ass torque sticks on impact guns and over torquing my lug nuts and warping my rotors.

I would also get the tires balance checked, might have knocked a weight off while working on it.
 
Since this all stems from the brake service work done, that should tell you that you need to go through the parts that were changed.

Tires, driveshaft, alignment etc are not contributing to this vibration. It sounds to me like something is either warped our seriously out of balance in the braking system. Start by checking runout of both the rotors and drums. You'll need a dial indicator and magnetic stand to do this.
 
I would agree on the drums needing to be turned or replaced as they are the only part of the rear brake that wasn't replaced.
 
Pull the drums off and see if it is leaking again. They are tough to get right even from the dealership. Took me three times, each time I learned more. Use the fsm to adjust the rears, also much more finesse than any other rear drum I have worked on. If you still have the original suspension in the front you probably have a good bit of play in it. It will drive fine with good balanced tires and a good alignment but a major shake from the rear will expose the slop you have in the front.
 
When the dealership did the rear axle seals, do you think they had to remove the driveshaft and then lined it back up improperly?

Naa i removed the axles myself and brought them into the dealership so I feel pretty confident it's not the driveshaft (knock on wood).

I think I would pull the drums off and make sure the pads still look ok. Might have some dirt or maybe some broken pad in there that is causing them to grab. I am going through something different right now, think I have little pieces of brake "thread" (asbestos fibers?) getting logged in the rears that causes binding until it breaks free. I pulled my rear drums off the other day shook the stuff in there out and put it back, and my binding went away. Now it is back though.

I am assuming you didn't get the drums turned? Are you sure they are true? If pads were dragging and causing overheating could have caused the drums to warp. Are you torquing wheels/parts to spec with torque wrench? Could be warping parts. I know on front wheels I always have problems with stupid garages using those stupid ass torque sticks on impact guns and over torquing my lug nuts and warping my rotors.

I would also get the tires balance checked, might have knocked a weight off while working on it.

Correct, I did NOT have the drums turned though its looking like i probably should have. I also did not torque spec any of the parts :redface: I will go back and do that If resurfacing the drums doesn't do the trick.

Since this all stems from the brake service work done, that should tell you that you need to go through the parts that were changed.

Tires, driveshaft, alignment etc are not contributing to this vibration. It sounds to me like something is either warped our seriously out of balance in the braking system. Start by checking runout of both the rotors and drums. You'll need a dial indicator and magnetic stand to do this.

Gotcha, will do this first I think. Thanks for suggestions

I would agree on the drums needing to be turned or replaced as they are the only part of the rear brake that wasn't replaced.

Yep, I think this is seems like the likely culprit.

Pull the drums off and see if it is leaking again. They are tough to get right even from the dealership. Took me three times, each time I learned more. Use the fsm to adjust the rears, also much more finesse than any other rear drum I have worked on. If you still have the original suspension in the front you probably have a good bit of play in it. It will drive fine with good balanced tires and a good alignment but a major shake from the rear will expose the slop you have in the front.

Yep original suspension as far as I know. I will try to resurface the drums and if that fails I'll begin to look at suspension. The vibration starts in the rear but then quickly spreads to the front within about 5-8 seconds, then the whole truck shakes hard. I'm still wondering if the suspension had issues, why didn't they appear during the initial 4 hour drive home. Thanks for the input.
 
Pull the drums off and see if it is leaking again. They are tough to get right even from the dealership. Took me three times, each time I learned more.

Do you mean the rear seals leaking or something in the drum system leaking? I had no brake fluid leak (that I was aware of) prior to redoing the drums. As for the rear seals, when I took them to the dealership, the tech appeared to know exactly what I was talking about in reference to the spacer being set at the exact length to be sure the seal worked properly. In fact he said that what they do is actually ADD an extra spacer between the wheel bearing and the ABS ring to make the last spacer fit perfect. Something like: Wheel Bearing > Spacer > Spacer(this is the extra one) > ABS Ring > Spacer. This ended up leaving just the right space for the seal to fit once the axle is put back in. Not saying it couldn't be leaking again, but It seems like all the proper steps were taken. I will check the drums for diff fluid when i pull them today. Thanks.
 
Sounds like your dealer knows what he is doing which is good. The last time I had to pull mine apart was because it was leaking around the outside of the seal where someone previously had scored it getting the seals out. Easy enough to pull the drum and see if it is leaking or not, and if it is not leaking have the drum turned to get that ruled out too
 
the truck is rattling my brain on the highway.

When I let up the gas at those speeds after its begun to shake, it does NOT make the shake go away. Only stopping the truck completely will almost "reset" it.

Any thoughts on what it could be?

In my experience this death wobble is always caused by one of two things. Loose or worn suspension components, or tires.

The dynamics of a little movement start an avalanche of movement. I have watched the wheels of a death wobble victim and it's cartoonish in how absurdly the movement can be.

Admittedly the fact that you sense the movement in the rear is puzzling, but it still points to something moving when it shouldn't.
 
Yep, death wobble is usually an accumulation of little things that are out of spec, not one in particular. That's what usually makes it so hard to find the cause of.

My CJ5 has a bad case of it if has sat for any long periods of time (flat spots on tires) when it's below 40 degrees outside and if the tire pressures are below 25psi. Take away any of those conditions and it's perfectly fine.
 

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