Schmiddyboy's Build Thread

11/12 Update!Thinking of the doing the front/rear bumpers, thoughts?

I'd say try it out because anything chrome is disgusting haha. I dipped my grille last year and for the most part it's still on there but there is some obvious chrome showing. It's also quite easy to take the bumper off. Lookin good so far otherwise! :uzi:
 
Looks good bromigo
Thank you, sir!
I'd say try it out because anything chrome is disgusting haha. I dipped my grille last year and for the most part it's still on there but there is some obvious chrome showing. It's also quite easy to take the bumper off. Lookin good so far otherwise! :uzi:
I think I might! Now that fall ball is over for lacrosse, I'll have a lot more time to do stuff to her! Will keep you updated :pizza:
Man between this and my own project my fingers are getting so beat up and cut up lol
Hahahha yeah I bet! Thanks for all the help, brotha!
 
As far as the decal striping goes, I would leave them. There's no telling how long they've been on and you may run the risk of pealing some of the factory clear coat off.
 
As far as the decal striping goes, I would leave them. There's no telling how long they've been on and you may run the risk of pealing some of the factory clear coat off.
That's what I was thinking, and it could possibly leave a shadow of where the vinyl was, due to however long it was on there. Not coming off in the near future!:thumb3:
 
As far as the decal striping goes, I would leave them. There's no telling how long they've been on and you may run the risk of pealing some of the factory clear coat off.

True. It would be risky. But I'm not good with tedious detail work.
Mine were removed by Dent Doctor. Less than $200 to make them
go away.
 
True. It would be risky. But I'm not good with tedious detail work.
Mine were removed by Dent Doctor. Less than $200 to make them
go away.
Mine aren't too noticeable unless you're right by the truck, so it's not a big deal to me as of now. Kind of gives it that classic OEM look, too!
 
11/18/15 Updates:

It rained this past weekend in Phoenix, so my girlfriend and I went up and hiked Squaw Peak. While I was there, I snapped a few cool pictures of the runner.




Last night, [MENTION=128525]theking11863[/MENTION] guided me through the process of cleaning the throttle body without having to actually take it off. While it would have been nice to take the whole thing off, we didn't have the time or resources on our hands to do so. I snapped a few pics of the mid-cleaning process, but didn't manage to snap a product picture.



Overall, my RPMS are idling at a significantly higher level (around 800) as opposed to the original (~500), and the truck seems to be running a lot nicer. I also feel a great increase in throttle response.

While hitting the tb, we wanted to clean the MAF as well, but the screws to the MAF itself seem to be corroded, so when we tried to unscrew them, they started to strip themselves. If anyone has any advice on how to tackle this problem in cleaning the MAF, I would love to hear what you all have to say. Cheers!
 
MAF screws are JIS, while a normal Philips screwdriver may work, it doesn't fit properly, and since the MAF screws in particular are rather soft, they will get chewed up very easily. A set of these and you should be set for taking off the MAF (provided it isn't too stripped at this point) as well as anything else on the truck that looks like it has a Philips head.

I recommend replacing the MAF screws with some stainless allen head ones, much easier to work with and not so darn soft. I don't remember the thread size and pitch, but you can use some calipers or a thread checker to find out easily enough.
 
MAF screws are JIS, while a normal Philips screwdriver may work, it doesn't fit properly, and since the MAF screws in particular are rather soft, they will get chewed up very easily. A set of these and you should be set for taking off the MAF (provided it isn't too stripped at this point) as well as anything else on the truck that looks like it has a Philips head.

I recommend replacing the MAF screws with some stainless allen head ones, much easier to work with and not so darn soft. I don't remember the thread size and pitch, but you can use some calipers or a thread checker to find out easily enough.

What's the difference between JIS and philips? I have a 51 bit screwdriver set so I might have a bit or 2 that fit better. As far as getting new screws I agree and can help help [MENTION=115148]Schmiddyboy[/MENTION] get the right ones.
 
What's the difference between JIS and philips? I have a 51 bit screwdriver set so I might have a bit or 2 that fit better. As far as getting new screws I agree and can help help [MENTION=115148]Schmiddyboy[/MENTION] get the right ones.

JIS is essentially the Japanese version of Philips. If you want to know the technicalities, check this out:

JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) | Screwdrivers | Hand Tools | VESSEL TOOLS

I highly doubt your screwdriver set has JIS bits, as I've never seen them in your typical sets you purchase here in the US, and most people get away with using Philips drivers on Japanese cars. If you do have them, they will certainly be marked as such (don't mistake pozi for them, either, as that's a third screw type that looks like Philips).

If you've messed up the screws enough, even the JIS drivers may not work, so another option is to cut a slot in the head with a dremel and use a flat blade to take them out. Definitely pick up a set, though, as they will save you a lot of headache working on import cars.
 

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