Seafoam in oil

[T4Rscott]

I know this has been talked about before.

I have a 99 4R that has 217k on the clock. I think I’m 4th owner? Not sure. The motor runs strong, no unusual noises.

Anyway, I recently replaced my valve cover gaskets and noticed there was some light sludge in the lower corners of the head. It got me wondering if it would be a good thing to use a little Seafoam before my next oil change.

I know this can be a polarizing topic, but I’m curious as to people’s experiences, not anecdotal stories, true factual experience as to wether or not it would cause damage.

I’ve put money into this vehicle to keep it going and maintained as best I can.

Thanks for the input ahead of time!
Scott

 

[gamefreakgc]

I've used seafoam in all 3 ways, intake, gas and oil. My previous engine was flushed twice due to sludge in the bottom of the pan, works great for that. Also works great for removing carbon buildup on the pistons and valves when used through the intake and gas, but 5VZ-FE's are not a carbon heavy engine if maintained well.

What it doesn't do well is what you are describing, varnish & sludge that's caked onto the top of the heads or under the valve covers. What works better is switching to a good synthetic oil. I saw a huge reduction in varnish over 4 years of synthetic oil changes, was using AMSOIL at the time and cleaned very well (as well as protected against the extreme wear I was putting on it when under 11 PSI of boost...). Varnish and baked on sludge doesn't come off quickly, it takes time.

 

[jgue467]

I've used it a few times in past on a couple different vehicles, no issues. I only use it according to the instructions as far as how many ounces per quart of oil and only in the last 100-300 miles as suggested before an oil change.

Like others, i too use only full synth motor oils, stay clean, here's a pic.

What I use more regularly to control carbon buildup inside the engine (thru fuel) is Startron: its an enzyme type product, as you said there are believers and not. I've seen spark plugs after 90k of use of this product and they are clean, soot free and appear to burn hot as they can/should.

https://www.amazon.com/Star-Tron-En...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

 

[Brian.]

...not anecdotal stories, true factual experience as to wether or not it would cause damage.

Doesn't exist. It's all anecdotal. There is ZERO evidence that stuff does anything other than empty your wallet. Plenty of psychology evidence that when you buy something though, you perceive that it "works" because our psychologies have a hard time with acknowledging being dumb enough to spend money on something that doesn't work/do anything (or actively Hurts ~ I've seen that a lot of times as a dyno operator with bolt-on "power" mods).

But, back to your initial reason for using it. There is a way to get the end results you want, use a "diesel" oil. They have more detergents in them and over the long haul you will be slowly cleaning the engine bit by bit. In theory this would be better than a "quick" clean, where a large chunk could come loose and clog in a sensitive spot. I suspect Seafoam is a detergent, and you could probably achieve the same results by adding a little (how much, who knows?) to each oil cange ~ but it's just an informed/educated guess.

I personally use Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic, and have for a long time (2 decades plus). Put it in both my diesel Jetta, and did 20k mile oil change intervals with that for over 300k miles, and my 1997 T100 with the 5vz-fe engine shared with this 4runner doing 10k oil change intervals (both were once-yearly). 100% anecdotal, just my own experience as a vehicle owner. Both engines looked WAY better than my current 200k mile 4runner that was single-owner who really prided himself on only using Redline oils (I'll never buy that stuff based on this engines top-end condition).

 

[19963.4lsr5]

If I need to do an engine flush I use BG109. I use it on my Saturn 1.9l to help keep the oil rings free.

I agree on putting T6 5w40 in for your oil and it should darken pretty quick as it’s breaking down gunk.

I run Pennzoil ultra or platinum. And if the shelf is empty of those I use motorcraft. I’ve also used rotella T5 5w30 and 10w30. It’s a semi synthetic diesel oil.


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[bugkillr]

I've heard using diesel oil in a gas engine can lead to clogged catalytic converters over time. Supposedly due to the "add pack" diesel oils use.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I've heard using diesel oil in a gas engine can lead to clogged catalytic converters over time. Supposedly due to the "add pack" diesel oils use.

I’ve run diesel oil in many vehicles and never had a CAT problem. The longest was Rotella T6 5w40 in my S Series Saturn for 80,000 miles until it got totaled. It burned 1qt per oil change and had almost 240,000 miles on it. The last 80k were all with T6.


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[plcfcng]

If you only have a small amount of build up I would just do your regular oil changes with a good quality oil, synthetic is the preferred by most of us. Using additives like Sea Foam you run the risk of causing problems like seal leaks. If you have a badly slugged engine then do what you need to do as recommended by the manufacturer. :snacker:

 

[phattyduck]

This is about 15k miles with Rotella T6 (three fills) after a lifetime of Dino oil (changed fairly regularly, it was owned by my father and sister before) at around 270k miles:

So, I'd say the Rotella T6 works just fine all on its own...

-Charlie

 

[T4R2014]

Anyone using the gas truck version of Rotella?

 

[Dom8706]

Ive used seafaom intake and gas on a few vehicles will good results. Including my t4r. Ive used lucas oil slug remover stuff on my previous 92 explorer and it seemed to clean up the sludge nicely and the engine seemed to run better but who know how badly the previous owner neglected everything on it.

Here i thought i was going big with putting royal purp high mileage 5-30 in my t4r. Is Rotella more commonly preferred or is it just more of a user preference?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Rotella is a good popular diesel oil. You can also get the 5w40 diesel oil from others like Mobil etc. amsoil I think also has a 5w40 diesel oil.

Both the Rotella and Mobil are available at Walmart.


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[T4Rscott]

Thanks everyone for the input! I’m grateful for you not roasting me as, like I said, it can get people kind of wound up.

I was thinking about going to a synthetic oil anyway. Never gave the Rotella a thought.

Thanks again!

 

[T4Rscott]

How’s the MPGs using the Rotella T6?

 

[Dieselchessy]

Do folks actually see a measurable change in MPG with a change in oil type?

I’ve poured a bottle of seafoam or marvels for the last few hundred before oil change on several rigs a few times.
It seems to clean up sludge in the top end. I’ve never had it cause an issue I’m aware of.

 

[cahilc]

I've heard using diesel oil in a gas engine can lead to clogged catalytic converters over time. Supposedly due to the "add pack" diesel oils use.

That's primarily due to ZDDP in the oil formulation. ZDDP is a physical lubricant. Since the 2007 EPA mandate to reduce levels most manufacturers have dropped ZDDP levels for gas but keep levels high as possible for diesels. They've been replace with chemical lubricants.

FWIW... Any additive to an oil package that I've seen actual data on lubricity has trounced the oils lubricating capabilities. The oil formulations are extremely tight these days.

If you want some good reading on oil packages (and why not to use additional oil additives) jump over to TRD (Turbo Diesel Review). Gonna find some interesting info. A lot of the expensive 'boutique' oils crash and burn.

 

[catrains]

I do not use sea foam in the engine oil .. good if you have a fuel injection issue put it in the gas...

I use marvel mystery oil in my old 25 plus year old engines because I do not use synthetic in those motors...
I only put in 1 oz per quart of oil cap.. of MMO.. one engine has 5 qts so 5OZ of MMO.. this will slowly breakdown the sludge and clean up the pan and oil filter screen.
you said a small amount of sludge on the heads.. so looks like you do the oil changes properly. on all my engines I do the oil changes and run the engine for several miles so it is hot.. then I give it 45min for all the oil to drain out.. I would cut open the oil filter so that the filter media looks good..