Sealing doors and speaker baffles
- Thread starter GX4SEVEND
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mikebontoft
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I would imagine Great Stuff is out unless you didn't want windows...
shadow247
New member
Just buy some dynamat or something similar. Cut out an 8x8 square and place it behind the speaker. Use the rest to cover every hole in the rest of the door. This will stiffen the door, and make it act like a speaker box. I did this on a Focus that I owned. I had a cheap system with some cheapy Cerwin-Vega speakers, and a cheap planet audio amp, and it JAMMED. It would get loud enough that you couldn't stand to be inside, but once you shut the doors you couldn't hear anything that would give it away as being anything other than stock from 5 feet away.
Offroader5
New member
Not sure how sealed you're talking. If you mean just blocking off the large holes on the inner skin, if they are not too large, you can get away with spanning them with a thick deadener material...or for a bit more solid solution, thin sheet metal can be used by cutting to fit and sealing them onto the door with silicone...then go over the whole inner skin with deadener.
You won't get a perfect seal on a door. If that's what you're after, you'd be better off building an enclosure (say out of fiberglass) that fits INTO the door instead of trying to use the door cavity itself as the enclosure.
Not a 3rd gen, but this is what I did with mine. I just spanned the holes with deadener, then I eventually added another layer of deadener over the whole inner skin (along with a closed cell foam layer).
I made my own baffles front & rear using 3/4" MDF:
You won't get a perfect seal on a door. If that's what you're after, you'd be better off building an enclosure (say out of fiberglass) that fits INTO the door instead of trying to use the door cavity itself as the enclosure.
Not a 3rd gen, but this is what I did with mine. I just spanned the holes with deadener, then I eventually added another layer of deadener over the whole inner skin (along with a closed cell foam layer).
I made my own baffles front & rear using 3/4" MDF:
Offroader5
New member
Those speakers are in the rear doors. They are Peerless #830946 6.5" for midbass duties only. They are crossed over much lower than a typical midrange so that they won't produce a whole lot of voice. They are only set up to help fill in between my front stage midrange and the subs in the rear. It helps get that nice snare kick sound. They are not what you'd typically see used in car audio. They are more of a "pro audio" type speaker.
If you're looking for a nice set of front speakers for the price...I just installed a set of JBL MS-62C components in my front doors. It's a 6.5" set with the separate tweeter and passive crossover. I bought these after doing a LOT of research on what to buy that included sets that were much more expensive. They get great reviews, and I found out that they were pretty spot on. I do have them amp powered with about 80-100 watts per door, so I don't know how loudly/well they'd do if only powered of the HU.
Here are the front speakers:
If you're looking for a nice set of front speakers for the price...I just installed a set of JBL MS-62C components in my front doors. It's a 6.5" set with the separate tweeter and passive crossover. I bought these after doing a LOT of research on what to buy that included sets that were much more expensive. They get great reviews, and I found out that they were pretty spot on. I do have them amp powered with about 80-100 watts per door, so I don't know how loudly/well they'd do if only powered of the HU.
Here are the front speakers:
Offroader5
New member
I've never had only the Peerless connected by themselves, but I am able to have all the door speakers front & rear able to play without the sub. The HU lets me turn off the sub channel.
The Peerless have a nice kick to them and if you're not looking for big bass, could be run in place of a sub in the right enclosure. Since I've not heard just the rear doors (Peerless) though, I don't know how much of the bass kick is coming from just them since my front mids do a great job with midbass as well.
One thing to remember though. A big part of getting any system to sound great is in the preparation of the cabin. I've extensively deadened, insulated, foamed, siliconed, and stuffed all the panels and nooks of my cabin along with padding all the hidden wire looms/runs throughout under all the plastic trim. At one point, I had the entire interior out all the way down to sheetmetal.
I only say this as a disclaimer. I can tell you that my front components sound awesome and have a very nice midbass kick, but much of that is attributed to the treatments I've done to the doors themselves, so there is no way to guarantee you will hear the same results unless you do the same in yours. Not to mention, the difference between 3rd gen & 4th gen doors will also play into it since they are undoubtedly different interior volumes and structured a bit different.
In my build thread here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/gallery/87160-offroader5s-runner-thread.html. You can see the process I went through in the cabin treatment....and these photos don't even show a lot of the things.
The Peerless have a nice kick to them and if you're not looking for big bass, could be run in place of a sub in the right enclosure. Since I've not heard just the rear doors (Peerless) though, I don't know how much of the bass kick is coming from just them since my front mids do a great job with midbass as well.
One thing to remember though. A big part of getting any system to sound great is in the preparation of the cabin. I've extensively deadened, insulated, foamed, siliconed, and stuffed all the panels and nooks of my cabin along with padding all the hidden wire looms/runs throughout under all the plastic trim. At one point, I had the entire interior out all the way down to sheetmetal.
I only say this as a disclaimer. I can tell you that my front components sound awesome and have a very nice midbass kick, but much of that is attributed to the treatments I've done to the doors themselves, so there is no way to guarantee you will hear the same results unless you do the same in yours. Not to mention, the difference between 3rd gen & 4th gen doors will also play into it since they are undoubtedly different interior volumes and structured a bit different.
In my build thread here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/gallery/87160-offroader5s-runner-thread.html. You can see the process I went through in the cabin treatment....and these photos don't even show a lot of the things.
GX4SEVEND
New member
Yeah I definitely won't be anywhere close to that in regards to sound proofing. Man that looked like a ton of work. Most likely just going to do the front doors.
I was asking about those peerless because I want a very small enclosure. Between the wife, daughter and two dogs there isn't a lot of room left in the back. Looking into possibly using the rear storage compartment to house either a sundown SA8 or an alpine type r 8.
I was asking about those peerless because I want a very small enclosure. Between the wife, daughter and two dogs there isn't a lot of room left in the back. Looking into possibly using the rear storage compartment to house either a sundown SA8 or an alpine type r 8.
Offroader5
New member
That's what I have, a pair of the newer Alpine Type-R 8's. They both share 1.4 cu.ft. in a vented enclosure tuned to 33hz. They do VERY well on the ~900 watts, they get from a PPI Phantom 1000.1 and fool everyone who listen into thinking there is much more than a pair of 8's in the rear.
There is a long thread about the new Alpine 8's on a DIY car audio forum I'm a part of. One can be installed in as little as .30-.35 cu.ft. sealed, although...even a designer/engineer from Alpine that helped work on them claimed they do their best work in vented enclosures. You could easily install ONE in about .60-.70 cu. vented.
Sundown makes nice subs also, so it really comes down to if you want to spend the extra coin on the Sundown since they both do equally well in the small enclosures.
There is a long thread about the new Alpine 8's on a DIY car audio forum I'm a part of. One can be installed in as little as .30-.35 cu.ft. sealed, although...even a designer/engineer from Alpine that helped work on them claimed they do their best work in vented enclosures. You could easily install ONE in about .60-.70 cu. vented.
Sundown makes nice subs also, so it really comes down to if you want to spend the extra coin on the Sundown since they both do equally well in the small enclosures.
GX4SEVEND
New member
I was looking at the lower end sundown. Most places are right around $90 and the type r is $110 so not much of a difference. The rear storage compartment isn't huge at all but a box could be made that obviously just comes out a little further and doesn't sit flush. If I didn't need the cargo area I wouldn't worry about it but I have less than .5 cubes to work with I'm guessing
