Seat bolt came out .....

teachme

New member
Hey guys I just bought a 1996 4runner and I am loving it. The frpnt drivers seat bolt near the door fell out. I got the bolt but it wont go back in its like a nut is missing off the back of it. Any help would be appreciated
 
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that sucks! i had the same thing happen to me. the nut is tack welded onto the sheet medal on the body for the car under the carpet. i snapped mine off when i was installing the seat back.

what i had to do is pull the carpet back up. reweld, glue, attach the bolt back in the place where it should be. then pull the carpet back and install the seat. being very careful not to snap the nut off the sheet metal again. i used an impact what has high revs to get my bolt spinning faster than what the nut will spin if it does brake off again. be sure not to torque it down very hard because you will pull the nut through the sheet metal.

its very tight space in there so take you time. if you get frustrated stop, step back, and get something to drink. then go back and look at how you can get it to work. good luck! i hate that problem.
 
Thanks for the advice. I got a super deal on the yota got if from a friend for 1500.00 runs great. Had to replace headlight assembly adjustment screws were broke. Loving ot so far
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i was under the impression that there is a nut welded to the body from below. this doesnt make sense. go get a 12mm bolt, which can be found in many other places on your vehicle, and put it back in where it belongs.

and dont EVER USE AN IMPACT on something like that. thats lazy and an awesome way to break all sorts of crap.
 
pretty sure its under the car. if you look at the bolt hole its flush w the floor pan. its a common toyota design. the back seats that flip down are the same design w the nut welded to the underside of the body for a flush fit and finish
 
The nut is tack welded on the INSIDE of the crossmember. I had the same thing happen. I cut a small rectangular hole on the backside of the crossmember with my Dremel just big enough to fit a pair of needle nose pliers so I could hold the nut and torque the bolt down. Worked like a charm!
 
The front bolts are attached to a piece of sheet metal welded to the floor. Mine broke off and is just spinning right now, I will be having fun if the seat ever needs to come out. The rears go through the floor. I think I read the torque spec on those bolts is only 20 ft lbs or so.
 
i was under the impression that there is a nut welded to the body from below. this doesnt make sense. go get a 12mm bolt, which can be found in many other places on your vehicle, and put it back in where it belongs.

and dont EVER USE AN IMPACT on something like that. thats lazy and an awesome way to break all sorts of crap.

its not a 12 mm bolt to begin with. its like a 14.

i had to use an impact because mine was spinning with the bolt and i could not rotate the ratchet fast enough to crank the bolt into the nut without the nut spinning too.

from reading your posts from earlier, you are not clear on what we are talking about and how the nut attaches from INSIDE the cab. you are correct that the back seats and the back bolts on the front seats go through the floor. but we are talking about the front nut on the front seats.

SEE part #57452 there are 2 black holes on ether side of the 45 ish degree slant on the front. those are the bolt hols and the nut is tac welded on the back side of there. Teachme you are saying the nut is lost. that is because it has fallen down and it is in that channel some where. it is there. (nowhere else to go or fall out of the car) its trapped between 2 pieces of sheet metal.
 
My fix was just to get a much longer bolt and drill a hole through the floor pan passing the bit through the bolthole. I then added a fender washer and a locknut from the underside of the truck. I'm pretty sure that it is stronger than the miserable nut on the top in thin sheet metal in the factory configuration. These bolts only get stressed in a rear collision; I suspect the seat back collapses first.

I think it was Brian that did this first; I just copied it.
 
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Sorry to dig up an old thread, but any idea how long of a bolt you used to go through the floor? I feel like dicking around with sheet metal for this is going to be a huge pain. Much easier to drill a hole through the floor to the bottom of the vehicle.

Actually, now that I'm thinking about it, how is the rust in this area? I see your post was from a few years ago already...
 
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but any idea how long of a bolt you used to go through the floor? I feel like dicking around with sheet metal for this is going to be a huge pain. Much easier to drill a hole through the floor to the bottom of the vehicle.

Actually, now that I'm thinking about it, how is the rust in this area? I see your post was from a few years ago already...

I was just under there. No visible rust. It's still covered in Black RTV.

As to length, I'd say about 4", but it's best to drill your hole and mark it out with a stick and get it right. One side had to be longer than the other, and the angle makes a difference.
 
It is worthwhile to pull up the carpet and inspect the other spot-welds around the seat mount crossmember also. The nut for my drivers seat ripped thru, and I also found several cracked spot welds. Its best to fix this right the first time.

I made a patch from some scrap steel and welded a nut to it. I was able to slip it in from the opening in the back/middle area of the crossmember. Temporarily held it in place with a couple sheetmetal screws from the plug weld holes. Put a block of wood underneath, and used a seat bolt to push it up tight against the crossmember for welding. Weld, plug weld, grind, test fit, and paint.
 

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It is worthwhile to pull up the carpet and inspect the other spot-welds around the seat mount crossmember also. The nut for my drivers seat ripped thru, and I also found several cracked spot welds. Its best to fix this right the first time.

I made a patch from some scrap steel and welded a nut to it. I was able to slip it in from the opening in the back/middle area of the crossmember. Temporarily held it in place with a couple sheetmetal screws from the plug weld holes. Put a block of wood underneath, and used a seat bolt to push it up tight against the crossmember for welding. Weld, plug weld, grind, test fit, and paint.

Looks great!
 

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