Seat Swap: 05 Sport (manual; cloth) to 06 Limited (power; leather)

BostonJon

New member
Hi, Everyone-

I'm starting this thread to document my seat swap experience. There doesn't seem to be a lot of solid information out there (that I could find) other than a few threads of people who have had various luck with the swap. Most seem to get hung up on the wiring.

Original Seats:
-2005 Sport
-cloth (the black sport seat)
-manual adjustment (except power lumbar on the driver side)
-side airbags in the seats

Donor Seats:
-2006 Limited
-gray leather
-power adjustment
-side airbags in the seats
-memory seat function
-heated

I've been looking for a set of leather seats for a long time and one finally popped up at a local salvage yard. They appeared to be in really nice shape. At the time I picked them up, I didn't really pay attention to the year/trim/options of the seats. They were power, leather, and matched my interior, and that was all I really cared about. I figured I'd be able to sort out whatever wiring issues I ran into. I asked the salvage yard to cut some of the pigtail harnesses so I would have them (the wiring coming from under the seat that plugs into the seat).

After thorough cleaning the seats, I started to document the various connectors, wire colors, etc. using the factory wiring diagrams for both my 2005 and the donor 2006. My 2005 had three connectors coming up through the carpet on both the driver and passenger side.

2005 Driver Side:
1) Yellow 2-pin female connector
2) White 17-pin female connector
3) Black 4-pin female connector

2005 Passenger Side:
1) Yellow 2-pin female connector
2) White 17-pin female connector
3) Gray 6-pin female connector

To my surprise, the donor seats had the exact same connectors on the pigtails that the salvage yard had included, which indicated that the male side of the connectors under the seat bottoms would be directly compatible (even if the wiring needed to be modified).

I started with the passenger seat because I figured the wiring would be the least complicated. I unplugged my existing harnesses, unbolted the seat, and set the donor leather seat in place. I connected the 3 harnesses and discovered that:

1) Yellow connector: All airbag functions seemed to work normally. No airbag light on the dash, and the airbag indicator light near the climate control turned on/off appropriately when I was sitting in the seat. All of the wiring (pins/colors) were identical on my original seats and the donor seats.

2) Gray connector: The seatbelt buckle sensing function seemed to work normally. All of the wiring (pins/colors) were identical on my original seats and the donor seats.

3) White connector: This is where things got a little complicated. All of the pins/colors on both sides of the connector seemed to be identical, but the power sliding/reclining function on the seat did not work. This was confusing to me for a number of reasons. Given that my original seats had such limited functionality relative to the new ones, I didn't understand why all of the wiring was the same. I also didn't understand why the power functions were not working, but the seatbelt and SRS/airbag functions were working properly. This is where the trouble-shooting began.

I took out the donor seat and started to test some of the wiring on the body side of the wiring connectors. Using a multimeter, I pretty quickly discovered that the green/red wire in the white connector (pin 9) did NOT have 12V+ even though this was supposedly the wire coming from the 30A fuse for the passenger power seat (which, surprisingly, my car did have in the fuse block). Using the wiring diagrams, I determined that the green/red wire runs from the seat to a junction block in the passenger side kick panel, and from there runs to the main junction block under the steering wheel. I traced the wire from the seat to the kick panel junction box and noticed that green/red wire was NOT present between the kick panel and the main junction/fuse block. I applied 12V to the other side of the connector at the kick panel junction block and the power functions started working immediately.

I now have two options:
1) Pull another suitable 12V+ signal from somewhere else in the passenger side kick panel and use that, or;
2) Run a new wire between the kick panel and the fuse block. This would be the OEM route and the one I am likely to take. The wire will run from pin 32 of the 1J junction block (next to the fuse panel under the steering wheel) to pin 2 of the IO3 junction block in the passenger side kick panel.

I've already added a pin and about 12" of wire on the kick panel side so either option should be relatively straight forward at this point.

That's where I'm at as of today. I will work on the driver seat later this week and update this thread. I have read that the driver seat may be a direct swap with no wiring modifications needed because my existing seats did have the power lumbar function so theoretically should already be receiving a 12V+ signal.

In the future, I may consider adding the appropriate wiring, relays, and switches for the heated seat functionality.

Once I'm done, I will also post the wire mapping that I put together in Excel.
 
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There seems to be very little interest in this thread (0 replies and 236 views as of this update), but I will continue to document the process for anyone that wants to attempt this swap in the future.

To complete the power supply to the passenger seat, I went with option #2 that I listed above (OEM wiring). I removed the trim panel below the steering wheel, removed the metal brace behind that, and removed the nuts holding the fuse block in place because the 1J junction block connector is actually mounted on the back side of the fuse block. I removed the 1J connector and confirmed that there was no wire on the female pin 32 (30A fuse for the passenger seat). This explains why there was no wire (and no power) at the passenger side kick panel. I removed a pin from the seating pigtail harness that the junkyard had removed and inserted it into pin 32 with about 12" of wire leftover from the harness. I then ran a wire behind the dash from pin 32 to the passenger side kick panel where i had left about 12" of wire extending from pin 2 of the IO3 junction connector. This provided power through the factory route from the 30A fuse to the passenger seat. All power functions now work properly (this seat only slides forward/backward and reclines; no height adjustment or lumbar support).
 
On to the driver seat.

Before removing the old seat, I tested the wiring coming from the floor of my 05 Sport to see if the main (Red/Blue; pin 9 on the white connector) 12V+ wire had power. Thankfully, it did. This gave me hope that the driver seat would be a direct swap. And it was, sort of.

The 3 wiring connectors from my 05 sport plugged directly into the 06 leather seats. The seat belt sensor (4-pin black connector) and air bags (2 pin yellow connector) functioned properly with no modifications.

However, only some of the power functions of the seat worked properly:
-sliding forward/rearward: yes
-reclining: yes
-seat height raise/lower: NO
-tilting of the front portion of the lower seat: NO
-lumbar support: NO

The lumbar control was the most surprising because, according to the Toyota wiring diagram, the lumbar control motor was driven directly by the Red/Blue wire coming from the 30A fuse, which I knew was powered.

The remaining motors for seat movement are driven by a Position Control ECU/Switch under the seat. I'm not entirely sure that I understand why the sliding and reclining function is working properly, but the height and tilt functions are not. However, I did notice in the wiring diagrams that in addition to the 12V+ supply from the 30A Power Seat fuse, the Position Control ECU/Switch in the seats in the 06 are also supplied with a 12V+ from from the 10A fuse for ECU-IG and the 10A fuse for ECU-B.

My current theory is that:
-the working slide/recline functions are powered by the always-hot 12V+ signal from the 30A power seat fuse. This allows someone to move the seats forward/backward and recline the seat without the keys in the ignition to facilitate moving the front seats in order to lower the second row seats.
-the height and vertical adjustment functions are not wired directly to the 30A fuse (through the Position Control ECU/Switch), but rather require a 12V+ signal from either or both of the 10A ECU-IG and 10A ECU-B fuses, which would only allow them to work when the ignition is on. I suppose this makes sense because these adjustments to the seat position are typically only required when someone is sitting in the seat.
-I will test this by supplying a 12V+ signal on the seat (male) side of the connector and see if this allows height and vertical adjustment. My 05 Sport did not have these pins/wires in the connector under the carpet.

So now I have another two options:
1) Splice the existing 12V+ signal (from the 30A always-hot fuse) that goes to the driver seat to also supply the pins that would have been for the 10A ECU-IG and 10A ECU-B fuses. This should (in theory) supply the Position Control ECU/Switch with 12V+ and allow these two functions to work.
2) Do it the OE way and run new wires from the appropriate fuse locations to the seat. This will be tricky because the 10A ECU-B fuse is in the engine compartment fuse block and I would need to go through the firewall. The 10A ECU-IG fuse is in the passenger compartment fuse block.

As much as I like an OE solution, Option #2 seems needlessly complicated. I will do some testing, but will likely proceed with Option #1.

More info to follow this weekend.
 
We finally had a warm sunny day here and I had the opportunity to work on troubleshooting the two vertical adjustments (seat height) and lumbar support.

I proceeded with option #1 that I had outlined above in post #3.

Because I had the pigtails from the donor seats, I was able to de-pin one of the unused connector and remove a few of the wires from the connector.

As I noted above, the donor seats called for 12V on pins #5 (orange) and #6 (white) on the male side of the 17-pin white connector. The female (body) side of my wiring harness did not have any wires going to these pins. I used the two de-pinned wires and inserted them into pins #5 and #6 on the female side of the connector. I then ran a jumper from the end of these wires to the battery to supply 12V.

The two vertical adjustment functions immediately started working. I then stripped a small portion of the larger red/blue wire (pin #9), which supplies 12V from the 30A fuse in the junction block. I soldered my new jumper wires from pins #5 and #6 directly to the pin #9 wire.

Strangely, the lumber support is the only function that is still NOT working. I need to look a little further into this and study the wiring diagrams. I may need to find a way to supply 12V directly to the lumbar support motor switch. Looking at the wiring diagrams, I can't see a reason why the lumber support wouldn't be working at this point while all of the other functions are working properly.
 
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I can't comment specifically about our trucks but I have done powered seat adds in a Crown Vic. I had to add passenger side floor and door panel control connectors and wire harnesses which I pulled from a donor vehicle. I duplicated the stock harness routing including anti-chafe tubing. It's a cool option add and relatively straightforward.
 
I was literally just thinking about starting to look for some leather seats to swap in. Thanks for documenting the process thus far, doesn't look like too bad of a swap.
 
Advanced swap would getting Limited heated seats to work. You will need the center console cover with switches and wire harness and connectors from donor.
 
Advanced swap would getting Limited heated seats to work. You will need the center console cover with switches and wire harness and connectors from donor.

The seats i bought are heated. That may or may not be part 2 of my swap. It looks relatively straightforward using the factory wiring diagrams. My problem is that I am already using the center console switch blanks for other things.
 
The seats i bought are heated. That may or may not be part 2 of my swap. It looks relatively straightforward using the factory wiring diagrams. My problem is that I am already using the center console switch blanks for other things.

Look again, friend! Limited center console cover has dedicated slots for seat warmers.
 
That is the dream of this 2006 sport owner right there. canadian winters are cold and the heated seat option would be a nice touch!
 
I would swap my 03 leather heated full power seats with airbags for a set of sport seats Full power with airbags In a heartbeat. I'm in Phoenix. I never use the Seat heaters ever. And the leather sucks major ass in the summertime anyway.
 

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