Secondary Air Injection Pump Failure on V8's! Important!

Slyfox

Had code P1445. Found out through this thread about Slyfox. He is quick to respond and mail out the kit. Took me about an hour to install, 30 minutes of which was just finding tools and re-reading directions. I’m not that mechanically inclined, and it was straightforward. The Slyfox kit is great. I put wire conduit around the wire to the MAF, and it looks like it came this way new. Thanks Slyfox. Saved me big money. Now I have some left over for the OME suspension.
 
Second time i've gotten all the lights and a code indicating stuck closed valve (this time P1441). Ordered the kit from Jeff yesterday and looking forward to putting this issue behind me.
 
Got the kit installed 2 days ago, so far so good.

I did end up getting a P1442 code before I got the kit installed. Anyone know what that one means?

I think I'm going to get a small grommet and drill a hole in the fuse box cover for the wire to exit the fuse box, also will probably get a wire protector for the wire run, I'm anal about stuff like that.

See post above. No reason to drill hole. The wire has room to exit on the top left corner, even with wire conduit. At least it did on my fuse box
 
You need a bypass
The bypass will most definitely fix your 2445. The P0418 it "technically" will not. I say that as the 0418 means your pump is shorted or completely unplugged(no circuit OR short circuit exists).

I had a intermittent P0418 when I put my kit in years ago. It "fixed" it as the pump is in a state where the ECU is OK with it(resistance is seen within certain window) and since there is a bypass now, it never tries to turn it on.

If you still have P0418 after bypass, you will need to get a Pump Replacement Pack from Hewitt Tech.
Hope that helps.

Hey Sly, just sent a PM about getting a bypass for my '08 now that the weather is getting colder... not sure if my PM's are working though? Anyway, if you don't receive it I am interested in picking one up from you.
 
I installed my [MENTION=8828]slyfox75[/MENTION] bypass kit yesterday. Was very straightforward and took me about an hour but mainly because I took my time routing the wire and installed a conduit over the gray wire to try to make it look stock. If anyone is interested in my pictures DM me your email and I will send. I think the most difficult step was the stripping of the MAF cable since it is so small. I had to redo it a couple of times due to breaking strands. Just like the instructions say, you've got to take your time.

Thanks again Jeff!
 
Just finished installing Jeff's bypass on a GX470, weather is in the 40's right now so I didn't hide the wiring with loom. Pretty straightforward install.
 
I installed my [MENTION=8828]slyfox75[/MENTION] bypass kit yesterday. Was very straightforward and took me about an hour but mainly because I took my time routing the wire and installed a conduit over the gray wire to try to make it look stock. If anyone is interested in my pictures DM me your email and I will send. I think the most difficult step was the stripping of the MAF cable since it is so small. I had to redo it a couple of times due to breaking strands. Just like the instructions say, you've got to take your time.

Thanks again Jeff!

Yep, the second time I did it I used a razor blade on the MAF wires instead of a wire stripper. Slight cuts, then fingernails to pull the insulation. No strands missing that way. I think Jeff mentions razor blade is a good way to strip the insulation off those tiny MAF wires.
 
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Dammit, heard the signature "growl" noise of the SAIP system while driving and lights are back on again. Going to scan the codes in a little bit....
 
I have a 2004 V8 and after reading this thread I promptly emailed Jeff for the kit. He replied straight away saying that the 2004 V8's don't have this problem. Anyone knows why? It's just weird to me that all V8's have this issue before and after 2004 but not that year...Thx!
 
I have a 2004 V8 and after reading this thread I promptly emailed Jeff for the kit. He replied straight away saying that the 2004 V8's don't have this problem. Anyone knows why? It's just weird to me that all V8's have this issue before and after 2004 but not that year...Thx!

The 2003 and 2004 V8s don't have an Secondary Air Inject Pump, the first V8s to have this is the 2005 and after, so that is why you don't need to worry about installing a by-pass kit, not sure where you got the impression that it was a problem before 2004?
 
The 2003 and 2004 V8s don't have an Secondary Air Inject Pump, the first V8s to have this is the 2005 and after, so that is why you don't need to worry about installing a by-pass kit, not sure where you got the impression that it was a problem before 2004?

That’s a relief then. Thx!
 
Add me to the list. I will call Toyota tomorrow to report. 05 V8 4runner 175k miles. I have owned the truck for 1 month and the noise on startup started 3 days ago. Check engine light came on today.

I also have to replace the ABS actuator assembly (another $2-3k repair). Can't get a break over here.

These two major expenses are being swept under the rug by Toyota. Not cool IMO.

UPDATE: I need help!!!

11/28/18 had P1444 and P1441 (valve stuck open). I drove to work which is 2 miles each way.

Today 11/30/18 I have more codes:

P0021 - Cam position sensor
P0018 - Crank position sensor
P0302 - rest are misfires
P0304
P0306
P0308
P0300

I had zero codes before the air injection pump failed. Any one else experience this? Any ideas?

UPDATE #2:

Found my timing belt slipped a tooth. A random, coincidental thing to happen.

Also I have tried 4 times now and the valve is still stuck open. I already ordered Slyfox kit, likely will need the block off plates.
 
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Hoping the Hewitt block off plates arrive today.

Unfortunately even after temporarily removing Jeff's bypass module then starting it to hopefully make the valves revert to the closed position as per his suggestion, the noise and open valves codes reappeared after 6 hours of running time. If I had a garage to work out of I'd take the valves off and physically close them so I wouldn't have to use the block off plates.
 
Hmm

Bought an 05 v8 (157k) recently and couldn’t figure out what the hell the plug was going to the MAF was. I unplugged it and quickly threw a CEL and went into limp mode. Scanned it and got a 2445 code... Welp now I know, it’s a rutech kit and I even got In the wheel well and spotted the blocking plates that were installed.

Question though... can I be sure I have an air injection issue because I threw that code? Or could the plates cause the CEL and maybe the previous owner was just trying prevent the issue? I’m sure the pump went out but worth asking.

Oh and the car just passed CA smog with the rutech kit no issues... everything else has been solid.
 
Haven't installed the bypass plates, letting the exhaust studs/nuts soak overnight. The passenger side hardware doesn't look too bad but the driver side is looking pretty rusty.

My codes are P1441 and P1444, both air valves stuck open. Has anyone successfully "un stuck" the valves by connecting the vacuum hoses to a Mityvac? I forgot where I read it, but one diagnostic procedure has you bypass the ECU controlled vacuum switching valves then connect a mityvac etc. to the vacuum hose going to the air valves, then you should hear some noises coming from the air valves when releasing vacuum at the mityvac. I did it several times and did hear the valves operating, hoping they've un-stuck themselves in the process. I'm trying not to install those bypass plates unless absolutely necessary due to the rusty hardware.

Bought an 05 v8 (157k) recently and couldn’t figure out what the hell the plug was going to the MAF was. I unplugged it and quickly threw a CEL and went into limp mode. Scanned it and got a 2445 code... Welp now I know, it’s a rutech kit and I even got In the wheel well and spotted the blocking plates that were installed.

Question though... can I be sure I have an air injection issue because I threw that code? Or could the plates cause the CEL and maybe the previous owner was just trying prevent the issue? I’m sure the pump went out but worth asking.

Oh and the car just passed CA smog with the rutech kit no issues... everything else has been solid.

The module you unplugged prevents the ECU from activating the system. The code you retrieved is related to the air injection pump itself, so you probably have a bad pump and the previous owner installed the complete bypass kit.
 
Got the passenger side bypass plate done. Took the wheel off then the two plastic fasteners at the top of the plastic flap things covering the gap between the inner wheel well and frame first. Very surprised by the lack of rust at the injection tube, the 10mm nuts came loose without a problem.

The driver side on the other hand was pretty rusty, one broken stud so far :censored: No exhaust leak so I'm leaving it alone for now and hope my applying vacuum directly to the air valves put them in the closed position. Ive had it idling for about an hour and no codes, but it needs two drive cycles/trips before any codes (if any) gets triggered. I may try loosening up the remaining bolt now that it's nice and hot.
 
Malfunction-free for two trips, around 8 hours/60-70 miles of drive time. 5 minutes into the third trip the suction noise returned; no check engine light but I pulled two pending codes, same damn air valves stuck open codes like before.

I have the intake manifold off,done working on the truck for the night. Tomorrow I'm going to install the remaining block off plate from the other end of the exhaust tube, still debating if I should attempt to take the valves off and apart to see if there's debris preventing it from fully closing.
 
My guess is carbon build up has clogged them up. I just got the P1442 code (stuck closed).

I'd rather have them stuck closed than open. I also have to ask Jeff why the system is still activating even with his bypass module.
 

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