Secondary Air Injection Pump Failure on V8's! Important!

lol at "bypass installation Olympics". That would be a quite a thing to see a bunch of 4Runners lined up and you knocking these out like a pit crew.
Well thanks again, I retuned all the parts I bought and I will be doing the bypass. I ended up buying the Hewitt one so I didn't have to cut any wires. I'm planning on having this 4Runner till it dies, but just in case I ever need to sell it or whatever, it makes me feel a little better that I don't have to cut the wire. I know its probably an irrational concern, but it may help me sleep a little better. I did some research on your kit and its really clever. Kudos to you for figuring it out and providing a really great affordable option for people as well as good support. Those types of things make for a really great community and I as well as many others appreciate it.

I did the hewitt bypass and Live in CA, easily passed smog. Nothing about the kit looks aftermarket so unless the tech REALLY knows that they are looking for it's no problem. Most SMOG techs just look for blatant aftermarket parts.
 
I've had the Slyfox bypass installed since 2022 with no issues, yet as I was casually driving down the highway my car went into limp mode and the CEL and VSC lights came on. I got home to my scanner and pulled the P2445 code (secondary air injection system pump stuck off bank 1). I thought maybe this would be related to the "cold weather glitch" as described on the Hewitt-Tech website, but I'm in Massachusetts and have certainly driven in cold temps (-20) without issue until now. Any idea what the issue is?

I've had the Slyfox bypass kit for about 18 months and the exact same thing happened to me on the freeway this morning. Temp went down to 17 last night so I'm hoping this may be the culprit. I cleared the codes (P2445 & C1201) once I got to work and the truck seems to be driving normally. One exception...the TPMS light will blink for a minute and then remain steady on despite all five tires being inflated correctly.

Follow up...
I just realized my battery is over five years old (October 2018). I probably should've put a new one in when I replaced the alternator in 2022 (multiple jump-starts). Could this be the culprit?
 
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I have the slyfox kit installed. It took care of my P1442. I never installed the plates. I notice though that when it gets down to -10 to -20F the blower still runs on a cold start. It sounds like crap!!! Seems like that shouldn’t happen? My concern is most temperature sensors are non-linear and the 4.99k resistance added by the kit isn’t enough to trick the ECU when it’s that stinking cold out.

This is exactly how it sounds at really cold temps: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=It9KqnsVorU
 
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So i got the vacuum sound on cold start 3 days ago (went away after 30 sec). No codes, truck runs fine, no limp. If i ordered a AIP bypass, do i need to install the plates? How would i know if the valves are close/open?
 
Slyfox bypass kit/ 06 4-runner limited 4.7L

Need some help yall!! I have a 2006 4 runner limited 4.7L have about 160k miles. I have the dreaded p2445 code stuck off bank 1 and secondary injection pump. I put the Slyfox harness on and still have my dash board lit up like Christmas tree. I installed the harness and left battery terminal off for about 30 minutes to reset codes and it instantly came out of limp mode but still throwing lights. So I started to install the plates and my studs are snapping off due to rust. I did blast them with PB blaster for couple days before even trying to crank on them. I did get one plate in but one stud snapped off on drivers side. Passenger side one snapped and the the second one is about to snap. So I stopped. I did bust out the torch and heat them up and gently started to try and back them off but the I can see the stud move with the bolt. Any ideas fellas?
 
Need some help yall!! I have a 2006 4 runner limited 4.7L have about 160k miles. I have the dreaded p2445 code stuck off bank 1 and secondary injection pump. I put the Slyfox harness on and still have my dash board lit up like Christmas tree. I installed the harness and left battery terminal off for about 30 minutes to reset codes and it instantly came out of limp mode but still throwing lights. So I started to install the plates and my studs are snapping off due to rust. I did blast them with PB blaster for couple days before even trying to crank on them. I did get one plate in but one stud snapped off on drivers side. Passenger side one snapped and the the second one is about to snap. So I stopped. I did bust out the torch and heat them up and gently started to try and back them off but the I can see the stud move with the bolt. Any ideas fellas?

The only suggestion I have is to try and split the nut with a nut splitter if possible.
 
Need some help yall!! I have a 2006 4 runner limited 4.7L have about 160k miles. I have the dreaded p2445 code stuck off bank 1 and secondary injection pump. I put the Slyfox harness on and still have my dash board lit up like Christmas tree. I installed the harness and left battery terminal off for about 30 minutes to reset codes and it instantly came out of limp mode but still throwing lights. So I started to install the plates and my studs are snapping off due to rust. I did blast them with PB blaster for couple days before even trying to crank on them. I did get one plate in but one stud snapped off on drivers side. Passenger side one snapped and the the second one is about to snap. So I stopped. I did bust out the torch and heat them up and gently started to try and back them off but the I can see the stud move with the bolt. Any ideas fellas?

Had a similar issue when I did the driver side plate, one stud snapped off (thankfully no exhaust leak). The other end of the air tubes use the same flanges; I installed the plate there and since they're below the intake manifold the studs and nuts weren't rusty and came off without a fight. I did have to pull the intake manifold off, but I've done several 2UZ starters before.
 
has anyone removed the pump and hoses on the 4.6 engine after doing the HT bypass? i had a rodent chew up my knock sensor wire, while in there i see it also chewed on the wires for the pump. While removing the pump to get to the knock sensor harness the rubber hose for the pump split where the clamp goes. i dont have a way to get another one right now, and was wondering if i could just leave the pump out of the car altogether and either cap off the hose.
 

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