She aint putting out!!

So I took the head off and From a quick visual inspection, I don't see anything wrong. I did find a little bit of oil on the back of the head which makes me wonder if I had two separate problems that I considered one problem. Maybe I had a bit of an oil leak coming from the back of the head (valve cover maybe). But I wasn't dripping any oil on the driveway and the bottom of the engine is clean. After looking a little more carefully I did see some oil build up on the back of the transfer case. If oil is leaking on the back of the motor while the engine is running, it would make sense that the oil would make its way to the back of the drive train. The second problem is a lack of power which may have been caused by the mechanical timing being off a tooth or two. But this (in my mind) still doesn't explain why the #1 cylinder wasn't holding pressure while I am able to wiggle the rocker arms. I talked to one of the guys at engnbldr and he said that it's a far stretch to assume that the machinist messed up the machining in the #1 cylinder that badly because the piston would wobble around too much and would come apart well before 8000 miles.

Anyways, here are some of the pics of the pistons, head and head gasket.

#1 Piston:
S6300748.jpg~original


#2 Piston:
S6300750.jpg~original


#3 Piston
S6300751.jpg~original


#4 Piston:
S6300749.jpg~original


#1 and #2 piston valves (#1 on the right)
S6300752.jpg~original


#3 and #4 Piston valves (#3 on the right)
S6300753.jpg~original


The headgasket
#1 and #2 piston area (#1 on the left)
S6300754.jpg~original


#3 and #4 (#3 on the left)
S6300755.jpg~original


With the exception of what I would think is excessive black junk on the pistons and the bottom of the head, I don't see anything wrong.

I'll get the deck of the block cleaned up and shave the top of the timing chain cover a little bit and make sure it's smooth with the top of the deck of the engine. I'll replace the head gasket and reinstall everything. I'll adjust the timing chain on the upper sprocket, replace the seal around the valve cover and give the engine some fresh fluids. Then we'll go from there unless someone wise has any input.
 
Holy cow!! She is putting out now!!!! The ass end is squatting down when I stomp on the gas, I have a smooth power band all the way up to 5k rpm and you can definitely feel the power when using the good ol' butt dyno.

I don't know exactly what the problem was but I adjusted the mechanical timing and replaced all the top end gaskets and put her back together. I love this motor!!

No motor swap for me... EVER!!
 
Holy cow!! She is putting out now!!!! The ass end is squatting down when I stomp on the gas, I have a smooth power band all the way up to 5k rpm and you can definitely feel the power when using the good ol' butt dyno.

I don't know exactly what the problem was but I adjusted the mechanical timing and replaced all the top end gaskets and put her back together. I love this motor!!

No motor swap for me... EVER!!

****.

1GR-FE 4.0 V6 Swap into 1987 4Runner - Page 4 - TTORA Forum
 
told you it was a head gasket! lol congrats my friend glad to hear i wont have to sell you my 3.4!

I don't think there was anything wrong with the head gasket. The old head gasket looks fine. I honestly think it was nothing more than the mechanical timing being off a tooth.

I think the oil leak was coming from the timing being off too causing blow back in the valve area and pushing oil out of from behind the valve cover. But I'm not 100% sure on that either.

As long as everything works now I'm happy with it. :D
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,079
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top