Sherpa Equipment Company Rack Systems

We finally found black hardware that is up to our spec. These sat in a cup of water for 2 weeks and no rust so we are happy to get them added to our site. Chasing down black hardware that withstands our strength and quality needs wasn't easy but we are happy to sell this black hardware upgrade on our website.

FYI, you could just buy any hardware and send it to black oxide yourself.
I do this all the time as one of my customers always wants black hardware to match their black machined and sheet metal parts.
316 SST hardware will provide the best corrosion/rust resistance out of the commonly available alloys.
 
FYI, you could just buy any hardware and send it to black oxide yourself. I do this all the time as one of my customers always wants black hardware to match their black machined and sheet metal parts. 316 SST hardware will provide the best corrosion/rust resistance out of the commonly available alloys.

Or you could paint your own stainless hardware with truck bed liner or matte black enamel paint. Then touch it up with a q-tip saturated in paint once installed if tools do any damage. But, a lot of people simply want to bolt and go and for them, the Sherpa-provided option is the best bet.
 
From the picture on your website of the 5th gen version, I can tell that the fairing has a rubber trim but that is not "resting" on the truck's roof. I have seen other racks doing that.
Is there a reason why? Pro and Cons?

Also, would it be possible to attach a Yakima Ski Carrier?
 
Or you could paint your own stainless hardware with truck bed liner or matte black enamel paint. Then touch it up with a q-tip saturated in paint once installed if tools do any damage. But, a lot of people simply want to bolt and go and for them, the Sherpa-provided option is the best bet.

paint would be a no-go on the threads.
This is why everyone sends to black oxide as it is a very thin and consistent coating (.0001"~.0002") as opposed to paint which is very thick and inconsistent (.003" ~ .012")
 
From the picture on your website of the 5th gen version, I can tell that the fairing has a rubber trim but that is not "resting" on the truck's roof. I have seen other racks doing that.
Is there a reason why? Pro and Cons?

Also, would it be possible to attach a Yakima Ski Carrier?

You can rest our fairing on your roof if you wanted to, but the less contact the rack makes to the roof the less likely you are to get damage from it. I've seen the racks that rest on the roof and if you really use your truck, dirt, sand, etc like to get into those spaces and micro-vibrations turn them into sandpaper on your nice truck. If you were ever to take the rack off you would probably have to polish it to look nice again. So in our experience, we prefer to minimize this as much as possible leaving a slight gap.

Or mabey a Black Friday Sale or group buy??

Any sales coming up?

There may possibly be a black Friday sale. We are unsure at this point.
 
paint would be a no-go on the threads.
This is why everyone sends to black oxide as it is a very thin and consistent coating (.0001"~.0002") as opposed to paint which is very thick and inconsistent (.003" ~ .012")

Of course. I don't think anyone would recommend painting the threads. I typically punch holes in a piece of cardboard and insert the bolts up to the heads and paint only those.

As for the nuts, the small amount of paint that may get on the threads when they are painted will ring right out when tightened.

That said, IF someone painted the whole bolt, the paint would simply sheer off the threads when the nut was tightened. It's not like you *can't* paint the whole bolt. I just typically do not do so.

Personally, I prefer enamel paint to black oxide. It wears tons better.
 
We have been making some great progress on our drawer systems. We were able to have a drawer tested in Moab over the weekend with just the MDF as a prototype material until we can pick up our HDPE and Baltic Birch and it did awesome!

Excited to button up the final design.

48857256681_0773d78f3a_z.jpg


We will be doing some more testing this weekend and we will photograph all the features that stand out on our design.
 
We have been making some great progress on our drawer systems. We were able to have a drawer tested in Moab over the weekend with just the MDF as a prototype material until we can pick up our HDPE and Baltic Birch and it did awesome!

Excited to button up the final design.

48857256681_0773d78f3a_z.jpg


We will be doing some more testing this weekend and we will photograph all the features that stand out on our design.

Wow, I wasn't aware you all were working on such. Nice. Have any approximate dimensions you can share? Mostly curious as to the width (left/right)...
 
We just wanted to let everyone know that we are having a Halloween sale that starts today and runs through the 31st. Never been a better time to save!

48953807647_11ff735fb1_z.jpg
 
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Hey Sherpa folks,

Your website keeps getting better and it's cool to see that ya'll are selling Rotopax products directly. Being able to carry those on the roof was the primary reason I purchased my Antero to begin with.

I had to fiddle around a lot to make an adapter plate to get the mounts to connect with the cross bars. Do you have ideas about this? Or maybe there's an easy way that was not apparent to me to begin with?
 
Hey Sherpa folks,

Your website keeps getting better and it's cool to see that ya'll are selling Rotopax products directly. Being able to carry those on the roof was the primary reason I purchased my Antero to begin with.

I had to fiddle around a lot to make an adapter plate to get the mounts to connect with the cross bars. Do you have ideas about this? Or maybe there's an easy way that was not apparent to me to begin with?

Really appreciate that! We work on our website for sure.

They can be bolted onto a single crossbar with some slight modification, but we are working on releasing load panels that will allow the Rotopax or Fuelpax mount to bolt directly to it with no modification and be very easy to use. This will also have lots of other options as far as mounting goes.

I am interested in seeing the method you used to mount it. When we had one on one of our racks we simply drilled out the two outside holes and bolted it to the crossbar with two bolts and tnuts.
 
We have been making some great progress on our drawer systems. We were able to have a drawer tested in Moab over the weekend with just the MDF as a prototype material until we can pick up our HDPE and Baltic Birch and it did awesome!

Excited to button up the final design.

48857256681_0773d78f3a_z.jpg


We will be doing some more testing this weekend and we will photograph all the features that stand out on our design.

Need more info on this asap. Can you give a ballpark on price range for this? I need more secure storage in a bad way.
 
Really appreciate that! We work on our website for sure.

They can be bolted onto a single crossbar with some slight modification, but we are working on releasing load panels that will allow the Rotopax or Fuelpax mount to bolt directly to it with no modification and be very easy to use. This will also have lots of other options as far as mounting goes.

I am interested in seeing the method you used to mount it. When we had one on one of our racks we simply drilled out the two outside holes and bolted it to the crossbar with two bolts and tnuts.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3270191-post244.html

Here ya go
 

That bracket you made is awesome. I see the issue you are running into that will be solved with our load panels. The bracket we mounted was rotated 90 degrees so it was easy to just bolt it up after making the wholes larger. We had the 4-gallon running perpendicular to the vehicle in front of a tent. The only other method I could think for mounting that without a bracket is to offset the mount to one side of the crossbar and drill two new holes but this obviously is not ideal!
 
paint would be a no-go on the threads.
This is why everyone sends to black oxide as it is a very thin and consistent coating (.0001"~.0002") as opposed to paint which is very thick and inconsistent (.003" ~ .012")

you can always cerakote the fasteners, although that would add way too much $$ to the final product.

glad to see serpa taking the small stuff seriously. i hate black oxide with a passion because 99% of the black oxide coated fasteners i come across isnt done even remotely correctly as it will start to rust within a week or two (water present or not). although it seems pointless to coat stainless (unless other than for looks).
 

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