She's cranking slowly!

[19963.4lsr5]

Yeah, that's a good possibility since the PO replaced it with a Carquest unit.

The 97 project I bought needing an engine and trans came with a CarQuest Alt. Three years later the brushes were worn. So I put an OEM brush set in it. Have yet to test it. It’s my spare. My 88 Daytona needed an AC clutch so I bought a reman compressor. Yea, the compressor had a pretty paint job and the dirty clutch coil and a nick in one of its wires rendering it useless. They never even tested anything.


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[Buckaroo]

Thank you all for the ideas.

Part of me thinks it's the one year old Interstate battery because I was watching the interstate guy put his DVM on the bat terms and she went down as low as 10.7vdc during engine cranking, which the guy says "it's normal". So, he didn't want to warranty it out.

Yes, that's good. Lowest acceptable cranking voltage is 9.6v I believe. Monitoring cranking voltage is really a load test on the battery. Agree with others that said to do a voltage drop test on the cable running to the starter and make sure the connection is secure.

 

[alia176]

Well folks,

My daughter came over last night so we ran some quick checks before the monsoons hit and we ran for indoors.

Here's a video of the starter pulling 400 amps :shocked: My normal DC clamp is only good for 100amp max, so I had to pull out the big gun which is 400 or 1000 amps. In the video I mistakenly said 400/100 amps.

Anyway, as you can see, the starter still cranks slowly even with a second vehicle giving it lots of juice. Charging voltage is around 13.5ish but that starter is drawing down a one year old battery quite a bit.

The clock is ticking for us to depart on Monday for Ouray, CO for a week of wheeling and camping so this might have to be what it is until we return. I have lots of prep work to do for this trip as this is the first time my 16yo daughter is taking her own 4runner with her friends and following me up there. Prepping two rigs is quite a bit of pressure so I'm prioritizing my To Do list accordingly.

If the videos give you more or different insights, please pipe up. As always, constructive feedback is always appreciated.

Video link Shared album - A. Ali - Google Photos


Cheers.

Ali

 

[19963.4lsr5]

The only specs I found on the starter are no load amps.

100a for the 1.8kw starter
90a for the 1.4kw starter

I can put my clamp on on my 97 and see what it pulls but not anytime soon


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[Bad Luck]

That high of an amperage draw leads me to believe you have high resistance in the positive cable to the starter. Were you able to do a voltage drop on the positive cable while cranking?

 

[alia176]

That high of an amperage draw leads me to believe you have high resistance in the positive cable to the starter. Were you able to do a voltage drop on the positive cable while cranking?

I feel you're right and haven't had a chance to crawl under there at the moment. She's gutted the interior and I'm running wires all over the interior!!! That voltage drop check is on my to do list.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Like [MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION] said, fuel pump is most likely the issue. Has the filter been changed lately?

 

[brillo_76]

Is the start positive cable going from the starter to the battery getting warm?

Also verify your engine block ground is good and clean just like the positive wire. As it right below the oil filter it can easily get messed up.

If it is not the Battery, nor the cables, then the only thing left is a bad starter issue..

Unless there is a pile of resistance the engine itself causing the slow spin which is extremely unlikely.

 

[sportscarfan]

Recently on a couple starters in my fleet, I've had to pull the brush cap off and clean up the commutator.

This is my Honda 4 wheeler - acted like the battery was dead.
Subaru did the same. Both cranked no problem after 5 seconds with the emory in the lathe.

 

[Bad Luck]

Like [MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION] said, fuel pump is most likely the issue. Has the filter been changed lately?

What does the fuel pump have to do with the slow cranking speed?

 

[brillo_76]

What does the fuel pump have to do with the slow cranking speed?

Nothing. Except they are thinking the fuel is causing the slower starting. Not realizing the OP is fighting a starter rpm issue. it happens

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[LittleCaesar]

It happens when one is three sheets to the wind and starts to post bad info.

 

[brillo_76]

It happens when one is three sheets to the wind and starts to post bad info.

No biggie.

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[spartacus]

What does the fuel pump have to do with the slow cranking speed?

I equated slow cranking with hard starts(requiring more cranks to fireup) It seems that the OP has a dragging starter.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

With a hot engine and the EFI fuse pulled it started out at 190a and went down to 130a after a few seconds of cranking. Did it twice for at least 5 seconds.


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[gamefreakgc]

It’s been my experience that rebuilds only replace what is broken.

They may never have greased the bendix or replaced the bearings/bushings. Just slapped a cheep contact kit and put it back on the shelf.


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That's what I did when mine broke

 

[brillo_76]

With a hot engine and the EFI fuse pulled it started out at 190a and went down to 130a after a few seconds of cranking. Did it twice for at least 5 seconds.


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Any electronic motor starting will surge. That's what I would expect.



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[19963.4lsr5]

That's what I did when mine broke

Fortunately a rebuild is still OEM. The two year old CarQuest 80a Alt I ended up with when I got my 97 project had the brushes go. Put an OEM brush set in it.


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[brillo_76]

Fortunately a rebuild is still OEM. The two year old CarQuest 80a Alt I ended up with when I got my 97 project had the brushes go. Put an OEM brush set in it.


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Yup and a denso oem will last 180 to 200K before the brushes fail. Car-quest brushes will not make that...

I learn my lesson a long time ago on the big box auto parts. Napa has lots of good things, But my time is more valuable then changing an alt or starter every few years or multiple times a year. As they are not going to pay you for your time changing your alt an starter when they fail.

The OEM parts in a rebuilt alt is a very good call because it replaces the inferior parts that the remain place used. Which should return it to a remfg denso status and last like the oem densos do..

Nothing wrong with putting a OEM parts in aftermarket that's actually a good idea.

 

[alia176]

With a hot engine and the EFI fuse pulled it started out at 190a and went down to 130a after a few seconds of cranking. Did it twice for at least 5 seconds.


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I'm back after a week of wheeling and camping with my daughter in her '97. I picked up a new NAPA starter in Durango, CO on our way up the mountain because the starter was seriously drawing down a 27F battery that came out of my landcruiser.

My GF came up two days later and brought all of my tools but lo and behold, the starter stopped misbehaving. However, this morning I checked her cranking amps and she's hitting 500 amps so i'll have to swap it out. It nearly killed the battery!

Thing is, i just checked prices on Claremont Toyota and an OEM unit is about $235 + free shipping, and I paid about the same for a brand new NAPA unit last week. Part of me wants to order the rebuild parts and refurb the Carquest junk but I like the idea of a NAPA brand new unit with lifetime warranty. I believe all OEM parts have 1 yr warrantly and chances are it'll be a reman Denso unit, per the conversation above.

Anyway, that's where we're at currently. Thank you for the feedback.

EDIT: Claremont confirmed their starters are REMAN units.