Shift Solenoids and Code P0773

jross20

New member
Hey all.

So I let me cousin's shop (legit business, not "mah cuz's garage") take a look at the 4runner to check things out for my upcoming 4,000 mile road trip in 2 weeks. All was fine except for 3 items. Two of which I already knew about, wet valve cover seals and leaky CV's, but the 3rd surprised me. Code P0773 which is apparently for Shift Solenoid E? As far as he and I can tell she shifts fine.

He felt I should be fine for the trip and I guess unless I feel anything strange I won't change plans. But I did want to start planning the repair.

Since the pan has to be dropped, should I just swap out all of the shift solenoids for the hell of it? Or are these babies expensive?

(Vehicle)
2000 4Runner, SR5, V6, Automatic, 4x4. - A340F Transmission
 
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Hey all.

So I let me cousin's shop (legit business, not "mah cuz's garage") take a look at the 4runner to check things out for my upcoming 4,000 mile road trip in 2 weeks. All was fine except for 3 items. Two of which I already knew about, wet valve cover seals and leaky CV's, but the 3rd surprised me. Code P0773 which is apparently for Shift Solenoid E? As far as he and I can tell she shifts fine.

He felt I should be fine for the trip and I guess unless I feel anything strange I won't change plans. But I did want to start planning the repair.

Since the pan has to be dropped, should I just swap out all of the shift solenoids for the hell of it? Or are these babies expensive?

(Vehicle)
2000 4Runner, SR5, V6, Automatic, 4x4. - A340F Transmission
It's been awhile since I looked, but I think all 3 solenoids can be found on rockauto for about $150 if you're okay with using aftermarket. I have no clue how much OEM would be, but I would expect 3-4 times that much for all 3 OEM.
 
It's been awhile since I looked, but I think all 3 solenoids can be found on rockauto for about $150 if you're okay with using aftermarket. I have no clue how much OEM would be, but I would expect 3-4 times that much for all 3 OEM.

Sheeeeit. I usually go with oem for safety sake. Lots of faith in Japanese built parts...haha.

Do people usually use the Rock Auto ones?

I guess I might just swap the single one with OEM then... Hmmm
 
Have you reset the ecu?

Mine hit a 773 about 5-6 years ago, like you no shifting up/down issues or slipping, cleared the code and it never returned. I have driven it from texas to san diego up 1 to frisco and onto tahoe, utah, colorado, up i70 (what could be tougher?) and back, its been about 90,000miles and zero issues. May just be a fluke ecu mistake?
 
Have you reset the ecu?

Mine hit a 773 about 5-6 years ago, like you no shifting up/down issues or slipping, cleared the code and it never returned. I have driven it from texas to san diego up 1 to frisco and onto tahoe, utah, colorado, up i70 (what could be tougher?) and back, its been about 90,000miles and zero issues. May just be a fluke ecu mistake?

Hm, I guess I could test it after the road trip and see if it pops up. How does one reset the ECU? Just pull the battery?
 
Hm, I guess I could test it after the road trip and see if it pops up. How does one reset the ECU? Just pull the battery?

Yeah disconnect hot or ground for 30 minutes then reconnect. It will take a while, perhaps days for the whole system to relearn its parameters, did the 'trick' for mine and never returned. Luck.
 
Yeah disconnect hot or ground for 30 minutes then reconnect. It will take a while, perhaps days for the whole system to relearn its parameters, did the 'trick' for mine and never returned. Luck.

Okay I'll try that out. On the off chance it returns, do you know what Toyota calls the shift solenoids? I figured I might as well research and get the part numbers ready in case I do need to replace it. I was searching but wasn't finding what I think is correct... Haha
 
Well before staring to replace parts, I'm not sure I read above where the fluid was changed last. I would at the very least do 1) a pan drain/fill or 2) if you feel up to it whole drain (look up process, its done in intervals of pan drains/fills) or 3) take it somewhere to do a professional machine flush.

The 770 code is a general malfunction in the shift solenoid E circuit. Could be anything from low fluid, dirty fluid/solenoids, electrical circuits between items in trans and ECU (did mechanic check for continuity at least on circuit E?) to finally a part like the solenoids (those can be easily tested to determine and not guess at replacing them).

But the fact it all works smoothly shifting up/down and into over-drive too indicates its all fine.
You've not had any issues shifting or slipping, right?
 
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Well before staring to replace parts, I'm not sure I read above where the fluid was changed last. I would at the very least do 1) a pan drain/fill or 2) if you feel up to it whole drain (look up process, its done in intervals of pan drains/fills) or 3) take it somewhere to do a professional machine flush.

The 770 code is a general malfunction in the shift solenoid E circuit. Could be anything from low fluid, dirty fluid/solenoids, electrical circuits between items in trans and ECU (did mechanic check for continuity at least on circuit E?) to finally a part like the solenoids (those can be easily tested to determine and not guess at replacing them).

But the fact it all works smoothly shifting up/down and into over-drive too indicates its all fine.
You've not had any issues shifting or slipping, right?


Oh sorry I should have specified that. The fluid has been flushed and also somewhat drained and filled due to needing to drop the pan recently to get the broken dipstick out.

So the fluid is bright and clean, at least the last time I looked at it.
I'll check again to see tonight.

Main problem for me is that with the weather and work situation currently, I can't drop the pan at home so I've got to get my mechanic to do it. Now his rates are good, and I use him a lot, but I feel like if we are dropping the pan I might as well just swap it out.

Vs paying for labor twice.. haha.

But I will not buy anything just yet, I'll go on the trip and see if anything changes and also see if the code comes back.

And yeah, I can't feel any issues with shifts. 1st to 2nd is hard than the other gears, but I think this is the same on all Toyotas. At least ones that I've driven. Once she is warm, I can barely feel the others unless I'm flooring it.
 
In that case, I'd just reset the code and drive it. If you've got torque pro, it can be reset via that tool, easy peasy....Luck on the trip and post pics!
 
Will do! I'm borrowing a good ass camera.

Hoping to try to get the new rear shocks on before we go...not sure if there will be time... Haha

Would be nice...
 

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