Shock replacement surprise

shadyluke

New member
The rear shocks on my 2001 were completely blown out so I picked up some low buck Rancho 5000's to get by on till I lift the thing. The passenger side was a struggle but it came apart. The Driver's side is where the fun began.

Due to the gas tank, upper control arm, and the brake line there isn't enough room to get a wrench in there and put enough force on it to break it loose. Stud style shocks have always been a pain so I went back to the tried and true method. Busted out my plasma and cut it off at the stud. Apparently, the shaft in my factory Toyota shocks is hollow so there is pressureized oil all the way through it. I cut it but imagine holding a lighter in front of a can of WD-40. Fireworks!

I didn't need the fire extinghisher but I post this so everyone can get a chuckle and be aware of the potential hazard.
 
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I did the close to the same thing as you. I cut the passenger side of with an angle grinder and had oil everywhere. On the drivers side I cut as high as I could and luckily missed that side.
 
There is an even easier trick than that. One the rears, just take the bottom bolt out, and then bend the shock back and forth until the top nut/stud part breaks off. its surprisingly easy, and works every time.
 
There is an even easier trick than that. One the rears, just take the bottom bolt out, and then bend the shock back and forth until the top nut/stud part breaks off. its surprisingly easy, and works every time.

Sounds a little less flamable. When you have a baller Miller plasma that will sever 1.125" steel sometimes you just need to cut.
 
There is an even easier trick than that. One the rears, just take the bottom bolt out, and then bend the shock back and forth until the top nut/stud part breaks off. its surprisingly easy, and works every time.

I'll be replacing my rear shocks in a few weeks. Been reading all the horror stories, but this bending thing might make it easy..if it don't screw the mounting bracket.
 
I'll be replacing my rear shocks in a few weeks. Been reading all the horror stories, but this bending thing might make it easy..if it don't screw the mounting bracket.

If you are doing the stock Tokicos, you can also get a breaker bar on the top bolt, and the use a honking big pair of ChannelLocks to ROTATE the top of the shock. The stockers snap right off at the nut and there is no lateral stress on the mounting hole.

It won't work on shocks without a steel upper boot.
 
I second the bending method. Remove lower bolt, bend bottom of shock until it can go no further, then rotate 180 degrees and repeat until its broken free. The upper shock mount on the frame can easily take the stresses.
 
Mine has the original Toyota shocks at 102000 miles. These should break off easily? i am looking forward to changing them. I just bought this thing 1000 miles ago and the rear feels real soft and easily bottoms out. I am hoping shocks will make it feel a lot better.
 
There is an even easier trick than that. One the rears, just take the bottom bolt out, and then bend the shock back and forth until the top nut/stud part breaks off. its surprisingly easy, and works every time.

That's how I got my garbage ProComps out. The nuts stripped so I was forced to turn Hulk and just rip em out. I don't see that happening with the new Bilstiens. Much better quality so I don't see any reason to have to break these off.
 
Couldn't bending the shock like that damage the top mounting hole?

NO, the mounting plate/ mounting hole is BEEFY, thank goodness. The stock shocks break off surprisingly easy, I had both my rear shocks off in under 10 minutes.
 
Drilling a hole in the sheath of the shock and putting a long phillips screwdriver through it is another pretty simp and easy way to get them off if they're being a pain.
 

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