Should i drain and fill?

[nathanroyse]

You can drain and fill, the fluids are compatible. Each drain and fill takes out 3 quarts (some transmissions it's closer to 4) and the entire system has a 12 quart capacity, I recommend doing it at least twice with driving in between to mix the fluid but realize that you're draining out brand new fluid with the old once you do it a second time. Doing a flush has the same effect, it takes more than 12 quarts if you are trying to go for brand new fluid in the whole system.

I did it 3 times when I switched to synthetic. I replaced approximately 60% of the fluid doing it that way.

okay great. that sounds like what i want to do. thank you again

 

[nathanroyse]

Honestly, I would flush it out yourself.

I did a drain and fill after my transmission overheated with Valvoline MaxLife because it has a higher resistance to heat than the OE fluid. After the drain and fill it still overheated. I eventually said screw it and did a full flush measuring the amount that came out and put it back in the same amount while the truck was running. It was easy. Watch Timmy's how to video.

After the full flush with Valvoline MaxLife, no more overheating and I just keep an eye on the temp when wheeling.

i’ll take that into consideration. i will most likely add a secondary transmission cooler after i drain and fill 1 or 2 times. before i do any hard wheeling.

 

[nathanroyse]

It might also be worth checking if the trans fluid level is correct. All final trans fluid checks must happen when the fluid is at 'operating temperatures' - 155-174*f, which can take 10+ miles of driving. Then, with the engine still running, manually shift through all gears (P-R-N-D-2-1-2-D-N-R-P), then with engine running and still in park on a level surface, check the fluid level...

If it is out of range, fix that first.

The fluid condition doesn't look perfect, but it has definitely been serviced through its life. Don't be afraid of a drain + refill or two.

There might also be a history of a "pink milkshake" that is now showing up - though I think that normally results in over-revving/flaring not hard shifts.

-Charlie

i’ll try and get back once i check the level. i don’t think there’s any history of a pink milkshake because nothing looks to be replaced. (radiator, hoses, etc.) and when i flushed the radiator everything looked fine... except for the coolant was green instead of red.

 

[spartacus]

If possible get a atf sample analyzed by Blackstone labs, they do a detailed breakdown telling you if you have excess metal or clutch material in your fluid.

 

[3bears]

A few thoughts:

Your transmission fluid looks ok. Switching to a quality synthetic fluid like Redline or Royal Purple will smooth the shifts out, that's exactly what it did to mine. Cold starts shift hard though. When we say cold starts, it doesn't have to be cold outside, just any temperature lower than the operating temperature. Once it warms up it should shift smoother.

Your transmission cable is this one:

.

You want no slack in the cable between the bracket and the throttle body. Same goes with the cruise control. The throttle cable should have just the slightest amount of slack so that the pedal doesn't get stuck open in hot/cold conditions.

Cable adjustments : yours may look a little different as this one shown is supercharged. Lucky dog. But cables etc are basically in same place and having them adjusted right makes a big difference.

Fluid change....well your color looks good.
As far as flushing, I did the flush using the cooler lines, like in tims videos. I used that method at 145k, and installed an external cooler and a magnafine in line filter I also dropped the pan and cleaned the pan, magnets and filter. Changed the filter again at 170k or so, I recently did the flush and external filter again at 220k. ( did not drop pan again) The comment about using a inch pound torque wrench, well...the pan drain plug is easy to strip, as well as the bolts holding pan to transmission body So if you dont have an inch pound....just go easy.
If you are reluctant to do a "flush" do a drain and fill, and do it again a few k later , and again. Flushing however gets the fluid changed at one time, including the torque converter. Repeated drain and fills ( with driving between) will get the torque converter too.

And since we are talking about automatics etc, dont for get your radiator...look up "pink milkshake".

 

[nathanroyse]

thanks for all the help you guys

 

[nathanroyse]

Cable adjustments : yours may look a little different as this one shown is supercharged. Lucky dog. But cables etc are basically in same place and having them adjusted right makes a big difference.

Fluid change....well your color looks good.
As far as flushing, I did the flush using the cooler lines, like in tims videos. I used that method at 145k, and installed an external cooler and a magnafine in line filter I also dropped the pan and cleaned the pan, magnets and filter. Changed the filter again at 170k or so, I recently did the flush and external filter again at 220k. ( did not drop pan again) The comment about using a inch pound torque wrench, well...the pan drain plug is easy to strip, as well as the bolts holding pan to transmission body So if you dont have an inch pound....just go easy.
If you are reluctant to do a "flush" do a drain and fill, and do it again a few k later , and again. Flushing however gets the fluid changed at one time, including the torque converter. Repeated drain and fills ( with driving between) will get the torque converter too.

And since we are talking about automatics etc, dont for get your radiator...look up "pink milkshake".

thanks for the advise. i’m planning on just doing a drain and fill today. i will most likely do it again in 1k miles and then drop the pan and clean it. just so i can order the gasket in the meantime. as far as the radiator goes, i flushed it when i bought it just because the fluid was green instead of red. all seems good now as it has turned a little orange, but i’m assuming that’s just from the leftover green mixing with the new red.

 

[3bears]

thanks for the advise. i’m planning on just doing a drain and fill today. i will most likely do it again in 1k miles and then drop the pan and clean it. just so i can order the gasket in the meantime. as far as the radiator goes, i flushed it when i bought it just because the fluid was green instead of red. all seems good now as it has turned a little orange, but i’m assuming that’s just from the leftover green mixing with the new red.

well one....they dont have a gasket from factory or dealer...they used silicone goop. two....torque specks are different if your using a gasket from like napa or autozone etc. three...just cause radiator looks good...thats not it...general rule on this forum when talking about pink milkshake says 10 year max or 100k on radiator...up to you at this point.

 

[nathanroyse]

well one....they dont have a gasket from factory or dealer...they used silicone goop. two....torque specks are different if your using a gasket from like napa or autozone etc. three...just cause radiator looks good...thats not it...general rule on this forum when talking about pink milkshake says 10 year max or 100k on radiator...up to you at this point.

so what you’re saying, is to be on the safe side i should change the radiator? i’ll just use gasket maker i guess then? and is it okay to reuse the old trans pan?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

so what you’re saying, is to be on the safe side i should change the radiator? i’ll just use gasket maker i guess then? and is it okay to reuse the old trans pan?

Get a new rad, replace the t-stat if it wasn’t done yet, and I’d recommend replacing the clutch for the cooling fan.

Then it’s all done and around 210-230 in parts.


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