Should I have another alignment done to push front tires forward?

[mcaz5]

I'm still getting some rubbing on the back of my front fenders above the pinchweld. I've hammered over and beaten the pinchweld flat and I no longer rub there. No my problem lies above the pinchweld almost into the tops of the fenders. Granted I am running no sway-bar, but I'd like to keep it that way.

This is where I'm getting majority of the rubbing:


fender by MikhailCaz, on Flickr

So are there any specific ways everyone is dealing with rubbing here? On the other side(passenger) I tried to beat back the firewall some today, and that seemed to help some but I'm still rubbing the plastic fender liner that runs all the way up. Should I go have another alignment done to push the tires forward like I've read about? I also have a .5" bodylift I'm waiting to install. That should help matters. I'd try and put that on myself but all I have is some bottle jacks and 2 jackstands.

This is how the tire sits in the fender well now:

Untitled by MikhailCaz, on Flickr

And this is how I want it to be when it's full stuffed:

20120702-IMG_2180 by RickaShay24, on Flickr

 

[rideexileex]

I found that even with my 35's and a 1inch body lift, i no longer rub (that ive been able to notice anyway) after having my caster pushed to the farthest forward thats still within spec. I think its like +2? I could be way off.... Then again, i've done a ton of pounding+cut+weld

All the plastic that you have circled, I've also cut out and sprayed with more undercoating

 

[JWaldz]

I believe the farthest we can push the caster forward without ruining anything is +2 to +2.5

You'll probably start hitting the frame at +2.5.

You could always wait till you get your bl on before you go back to get another one. If you're still rubbing after that either do some more pounding or have them put the caster on both sides to +2 or so. What are they at now?

 

[JayRolla]

The body lift should really help. I would have gone with a 1.5", would have helped clear a lot more like when people run 35's but your sitting a little smaller so maybe the .5 will be enough.

 

[lude and rude]

are you rubbing at full stuff with wheel straight or full clock? you can only push tire forward so much... then you ruin other things. like everyone said its in the +2 range. some are more some are less. devils advocate would say go get a smaller tire or deal with it till you get the lift installed.

oh btw the picture you show, looks like it rubs terribly at full stuff straight and would be bad if you turn the wheel even a lil. i rock crawled a toyota for years and know that the tire may fit at full stuff but try and turn your steering wheel and you just chunked your tires, or bent your fenders to hell. so always run a tire thats a lil smaller. may not be the best look on the street but hey why own a 4wd if its gonna be a pavement princess. just my .02

 

[mcaz5]

I found that even with my 35's and a 1inch body lift, i no longer rub (that ive been able to notice anyway) after having my caster pushed to the farthest forward thats still within spec. I think its like +2? I could be way off.... Then again, i've done a ton of pounding+cut+weld

All the plastic that you have circled, I've also cut out and sprayed with more undercoating

Do you have any pictures without all the plastic? I really would like to ditch most of it. I hate that crap.

I believe the farthest we can push the caster forward without ruining anything is +2 to +2.5

You'll probably start hitting the frame at +2.5.

You could always wait till you get your bl on before you go back to get another one. If you're still rubbing after that either do some more pounding or have them put the caster on both sides to +2 or so. What are they at now?

I'm not sure what the caster's at. Any way to tell without taking it to a shop?

The body lift should really help. I would have gone with a 1.5", would have helped clear a lot more like when people run 35's but your sitting a little smaller so maybe the .5 will be enough.

I personally am not a huge fan of body lift's unless it's used for the sole purpose of clearing bigger tires. I also like the look of a rig with a low COG that's just enough to clear some bigger tires. The plan originally was to never go body lift but when I saw the guy making the .5" in the classifieds I figure I'd try one mainly to put a little gap in-between my ODL bumper and the front fenders because it sits pretty snug.

are you rubbing at full stuff with wheel straight or full clock? you can only push tire forward so much... then you ruin other things. like everyone said its in the +2 range. some are more some are less. devils advocate would say go get a smaller tire or deal with it till you get the lift installed.

oh btw the picture you show, looks like it rubs terribly at full stuff straight and would be bad if you turn the wheel even a lil. i rock crawled a toyota for years and know that the tire may fit at full stuff but try and turn your steering wheel and you just chunked your tires, or bent your fenders to hell. so always run a tire thats a lil smaller. may not be the best look on the street but hey why own a 4wd if its gonna be a pavement princess. just my .02

I really only rub close to full lock. Perfectly straight I clear just fine. And believe me, this is anything but a pavement princess. I'm trying to clear these tires so I can get back out on the trail!

 

[rideexileex]

Do you have any pictures without all the plastic? I really would like to ditch most of it. I hate that crap.

Doesn't really show it all, but here is what i did when i cut some of the metal back:

 

[mcaz5]

I went a little crazy last night and took off both the front fenders and went and did some test flexing. I thought majority of my rub was coming above the pinch weld but I'm also rubbing below the pinch weld. In this spot

Untitled by MikhailCaz, on Flickr

Now I've seen people cut back and then weld over this particular spot. I don't really have the ability to do that so could I try and hammer it back? I'm sure getting my caster pushed forward would solve this issue as well.

 

[lude and rude]

before you beat it up with a BFH i would get it pushed forward like your stating and see what happens... might not need to even touch it awhole lot. another option is get a air hammer, never tried it but think it might work decent, or even a bottle jack to push it in. what ever you try, take your time and be patient. did this on my crawler with a big **** hammer and worked well but takes sometime and energy. plus have some sealant handle in case you split the pinch welds or crack the metal.

my latest addition is a 96 runner with 265/75r16s on it and it rubbed like a son of a gun a 3/4 lock on level ground. cured it by cutting out the bottom of the fender, fender trim, and pinch weld flange just like yours looks. but in the future when i start wheeling it a ton i will need to do some more massaging.